numskull

Oh Graham, for heavens sake, just give it a go for £8 then you can tell us if they fit! 😂

Seems like the AC is on, looking at the OP’s pic, John. Just noticed the engine revs seem a bit high, especially as the engine is up to full temp? Isn’t that the case when there’s a high current demand? (Or it’s in Sport mode of course).

Ours is 7 years old and still on the original too. Given the four 1.8 miles journeys a day it does during term time (I drive a school bus) it gets a pounding, what with the AC on 365, the heated seat, screen often both on in the Autumn and Winter when needed together with full lights always on during that time of year, I think it’s done pretty well. I do shove it on the CTEK charger daily overnight in the winter though so that could be helping.

Well, I’m guessing the clue that something is missing, is the huge hole in the tank where the upper pump should be?

Welcome to Skoda Becky10. Tell us some more about the car. Petrol or Diesel? Did you buy it from a Skoda dealer? What’s the mileage? Did they supply a print out of the service history? How many owners? As for the weirdo stuff, certainly a duff battery can make it do all sorts of strange things, but in any event, I’d be standing on their forecourt first thing on Monday and getting a courtesy car til it’s fixed.

Welcome to Briskoda. You can get LED’s to replace the 382‘s and definitely get brighter Halogens than those you’ve got fitted, however they will be expensive. Take a look on Powerbulbs. They have a massive range of all types at good prices.

That pic you’ve taken is the bottom of the tank, correct?

Yeah…. ‘course it does… not. 🙄 Is there any rim damage on any of them? Here you go. This is one Alan refurbed about 18m ago. It had the same issue you’ve got and now it don’t! Needs a full diamond cut… sheesh.

Hmmm. I’ve never had to have them fully refurbed as damage is localised. I’ve no idea where you’re located (it’s a good idea to add that info to your profile; helps in cases like this!) but i use a local mobile guy. His business is called Wheel Doctor, but I’m sure any mobile refurb Co with good reviews or, better still, a personal recommendation, would do just as good a job. The worm is caused by water getting trapped under the clear coat and staining the alloy. It’s a simple case of removing the clear coat and polishing the stain til it’s gone, then re-clear coating the entire wheel. Incidentally, the worm was located in exactly the same place as yours.

Lubriplate 105 will do the job; it’ll never dry-out nor become sticky or hard.

Whoops… dupe post!🙄

Jeez! I know @ApatureS has removed his dash (and everything else come to that) and he’s a tech too, so he’ll probably know.

Blimey that’s almost as much as the repair cost on ours! Ker-chang!

Yeah, but it’s good to have those “real” ones, where the person undertaking the work can show the “real” time it takes, the pitfalls when removing the OE kit, installing the new and how to avoid loosing a thumb along the way etc.

Sounds like another non OE part being given the blame when, in fact, they don’t have a danny what’s wrong.

That’ll be a nice few days work! GL with that and LF to the thread. Be interesting if you were to take a few pics to show the replacement process of the kit, especially the shocks.

And on the basis that my system was making odd hissing sounds, I got a airco “specialist” to come to me and he said it jest needed a regas and two days later the noise returned. Dammit. Should’ve listened to SJ above and others who said said it wouldn’t be low gas. Anyway, I mentioned this to the Indy dealer I use for service when I was there for an oil change and in 2 mins they found the pipe leaving the condenser had leak. To be fair, the “specialist” refunded me the £120 he charged. And to top it all, when I took it in for the AC to be fixed, they found the water pump housing was leaking! Bloody expensive month that was!

Or they turn it on and if it’s chilly, it’s good to go and you’re down £50. (or whatever the ludicrous amount 30mins of main dealer labour is these days).

Yes, you can. It’s in the manual.

I know. It’s a bleedin’ liberty! I called the SMMT to lodge my complaint and they were extremely rude.

The wife’s NSR failed on her 2003 Focus a couple ow weeks ago and the glass is being held-up with a bit of 32mm waste pipe until a new unit arrives and can be replaced. Ridiculously, Ford have not agreed it’s still under warranty, about which I’m absolutely fuming…

I’ve had the alloys refurbed more times than I can remember; the wheels on this car has had a propensity to find kerbs others have feared to touch! 😖 No I’m serious. I’ve never kerbed any of the ‘00’s of cars I’ve had prior to the 280 (OK, OK, so I did rip the bottom of the engine out of my cocar Sierra 2.0l Ghia estate on an unlit centre kerbstone bollard - Merton Council paid for the damage) and whilst it’s cost more than powder coating, I’ve kept them OE as I think they’re a very smart-looking wheel. I also had the worm removed a couple of years ago and, as yet, it hasn’t returned.

Yep, ditto that...

In my case, I found there were too many badges on the back and it looked awful IMO. As for the L&K badges stickers well, they're just plain naff. As for resale it won't make a difference, as the L&K script is everywhere in the car; on the gear selector, the passenger side dash and on the four main seatbacks. I debaged it the first week after we'd bought it. I just like the clean look. And I like surprising the BMW drivers when they think "oh, its just a Skoda and probably a diesel "!

I agree. I use mine a lot, primarily for calls. It’s great.