numskull

Blimey! Thank you @Bap33, @J.R., @UndertheRadar, @HeavyMetalRich, @Warrior193, @petrolcan, @Mickvrs220 So, yeah the car is a 2016 Superb and it’s the original screen. I’ve now tried White Spirit and that did nowt as did WD40, Panel-wipe (well what have I got to loose!) and QD too. A Brillo is completely safe on glass @petrolcanas it’s far softer than the glass itself plus, of course, it has the soap which acts as lube. Since the video, I’ve also tried Astonish hob cleaner with a Brillo but that didn’t touch it either. But using the glass scraper sounds like a great idea @HeavyMetalRich so I’ll give that a whirl. It’s just so odd that whatever this is, you can’t feel it with a finger nail and it has built-up at that position on the glass at its end of travel, making the blade squeak like a banshee! @Mickvrs220 does the G4 need to be used with a DA? I’m thinking that cerium oxide will be the final weapon to attack this gunk. Thanks again for all your suggestions guys. Num

Nice one!

Yes, give that a go first. Try the second if that doesn’t improve matters.

Hmmm. Not sure, but there is also the flap relearn procedure too which as follows @ApertureSis this OK to try to solve Graham’s issue? Turn the ignition on, then off. Hold the ac and recirculate buttons till the panel starts flashing, then all the flaps will move and relearn their positions When the display it stops flashing, cycle the ignition again. Graham, wait ‘til AS comes back with the confirmation to go ahead, or not!!

Need some help over here!

Please look at the attached video. Does anyone have any idea what the heck has contaminated the windscreen? This causes the wipers to squeal insanely as it reaches the end of its travel; it’s driving me nuts. As you can see from the attached, I’ve tried removing whatever it is with a Brillo, Brillo and BKF and just BKF. Also I’ve used neat windscreen wash, ISO and acetone. So if this was the usual traffic or diesel film it’ll be gone, but nothing has touched it. All suggestions gratefully received. EDIT Oh BTW; you need to have the sound up! IMG_0220.MOV

You could try a reset, Graham: you do this by holding the auto and face vents switches down together for 30s or so.

Three days gone and no response. Must’ve solved it….or sold it.

….and take a 2nd mortgage to pay for it…😖

Oh Graham, for heavens sake, just give it a go for £8 then you can tell us if they fit! 😂

Seems like the AC is on, looking at the OP’s pic, John. Just noticed the engine revs seem a bit high, especially as the engine is up to full temp? Isn’t that the case when there’s a high current demand? (Or it’s in Sport mode of course).

Ours is 7 years old and still on the original too. Given the four 1.8 miles journeys a day it does during term time (I drive a school bus) it gets a pounding, what with the AC on 365, the heated seat, screen often both on in the Autumn and Winter when needed together with full lights always on during that time of year, I think it’s done pretty well. I do shove it on the CTEK charger daily overnight in the winter though so that could be helping.

Well, I’m guessing the clue that something is missing, is the huge hole in the tank where the upper pump should be?

Welcome to Skoda Becky10. Tell us some more about the car. Petrol or Diesel? Did you buy it from a Skoda dealer? What’s the mileage? Did they supply a print out of the service history? How many owners? As for the weirdo stuff, certainly a duff battery can make it do all sorts of strange things, but in any event, I’d be standing on their forecourt first thing on Monday and getting a courtesy car til it’s fixed.

Welcome to Briskoda. You can get LED’s to replace the 382‘s and definitely get brighter Halogens than those you’ve got fitted, however they will be expensive. Take a look on Powerbulbs. They have a massive range of all types at good prices.

That pic you’ve taken is the bottom of the tank, correct?

Yeah…. ‘course it does… not. 🙄 Is there any rim damage on any of them? Here you go. This is one Alan refurbed about 18m ago. It had the same issue you’ve got and now it don’t! Needs a full diamond cut… sheesh.

Hmmm. I’ve never had to have them fully refurbed as damage is localised. I’ve no idea where you’re located (it’s a good idea to add that info to your profile; helps in cases like this!) but i use a local mobile guy. His business is called Wheel Doctor, but I’m sure any mobile refurb Co with good reviews or, better still, a personal recommendation, would do just as good a job. The worm is caused by water getting trapped under the clear coat and staining the alloy. It’s a simple case of removing the clear coat and polishing the stain til it’s gone, then re-clear coating the entire wheel. Incidentally, the worm was located in exactly the same place as yours.

Lubriplate 105 will do the job; it’ll never dry-out nor become sticky or hard.

Whoops… dupe post!🙄

Jeez! I know @ApatureS has removed his dash (and everything else come to that) and he’s a tech too, so he’ll probably know.

Blimey that’s almost as much as the repair cost on ours! Ker-chang!

Yeah, but it’s good to have those “real” ones, where the person undertaking the work can show the “real” time it takes, the pitfalls when removing the OE kit, installing the new and how to avoid loosing a thumb along the way etc.

Sounds like another non OE part being given the blame when, in fact, they don’t have a danny what’s wrong.

That’ll be a nice few days work! GL with that and LF to the thread. Be interesting if you were to take a few pics to show the replacement process of the kit, especially the shocks.