numskull

Dying battery would be my first thought.

Dunno how small it is compared to the 2WD, but it’s not very big and runs out quickly, that’s for sure.

Boolocks…🙄 Can the rad be repaired?

I suspect VAG won’t give a toss

Move the seat all the way forward. When it stops, move it forward again and it’ll move a few more MM. Then do the same in reverse. Reset the memory.

Thanks MartiniB 👍🏻👍🏻

I really wish our 2016 had a couple of 5v outputs and a what seems to be an 230v inverter output?

This is great, thanks.. 👍🏻

And how often did you look down at the brake handle to check if it was on? The answer is never. You start the engine and drive off. You stop and the brake applies. You literally never think about it. Oh and you can turn off the auto function if you wish… but you won’t.

IME, once you have it, you’ll never want to go back to a manual system again.

I really wouldn’t do that, unless you want the strip to spring off the door; it uses friction grips to hold it in place. A couple of years ago, the strip on the OS rear door was loose and rattling on ours. I got a rubber mallet and a 10cm x 3cm block of pine and, placing the 10cm length against the strip, I tapped it all along the strip. No more rattle.

Unlike other manufacturers, the VW KESSY system does not operate in that way. To open the driver or front passenger door (on early cars; on later cars one can open all doors) you need to touch the door handle and you need to do the same when you exit the car to lock it. Of course you can use the remote to open / lock the car from a distance. Obviously, you need to be standing at the rear of the car to open the tailgate with the virtual pedal.

Gave up? Didn’t like the look? Thought it looked great? Idiotic decision? Take y’pick!

Disagree. Look at what seems to be the wear on the bottom trim on the quarter light on the OS shot.

Yeah, it’s a build error. I had a white XR4i which had a colour coded NS door mirror and a black one on the OS, unmatched alloys, and no carpet in the boot. QC was top notch on that day in Genk…🙄

Might get a better responses in the Octavia forum?

I wouldn’t think they would. On the front seats, the chance that the seat runners would be in the same location, the seat width would be the same and the electrical controls would be compatible would be, well, unlikely. Putting aside the width, depth and length of the rear cushion matching the Superb, rear seat back fittings will not be the same. And they won’t match the doorcards or headlining. This could be a much better approach….

You could try this…; that worked for me.

Thanks for clarifying, MartiniB! 👍🏻

Thanks MartiniB. Can you clarify what the diagram shows? Is the black line the area under the switch assembly, or is it the gap under this, where the original cable appears? The problem I found was, the large PCB in the shrink sleeving is too thick to stay in the area where switch assembly fits - if it’s there, the switch assembly won’t slot into place - and it’s also too large to go through the hole where the original cable appears.

We drive on the “right” side of the road too, JR. 👍🏻 OK, I’ll give it another go.

This is a dumb question; you did measure it with a warm engine and let it sit on a level service for 20mins before checking? I only asked because I completely forgot and didn’t and thought it was empty! 🙄

Thanks guys. I finally got the switch unit out and plugged in the gizmo, but I could not get the switch unit back in. I tried pushing the block connector at the car end, which was now connected to the gizmo, back into the hole into which the switch unit sits, but it wasn’t having any of it so, not wishing to break anything, I gave up and removed the unit, so Martini and JR, can you tell me how you guys succeeded where I abysmally failed? 😢

What year is your 280? What was the cost of the pump and thermostat?