numskull

Yeah, it just pushes on. I’m pleased you’ve cleared the blockage. The jets are a bloody nightmare to set-up.

Yeah that’s not a bad idea, Colin. The only problem is, the used car market is so strong, everything is expensive. I’d quite like to get a small ICE car for to/from work, maybe a Citigo or Fabia.

So I had the Aircon leak fixed this morning at Wheelbase (all went ok) and during this, they discovered the water pump housing has just started leaking; they called me into the workshop to show me the staining on the block and sump. So I’ve had to book it in on the 26th June so I can have a courtesy car and the cost will be £875 inc VAT. Oh and SWMBO cat tax reminder for the Focus arrived on Wednesday for £375. So all-in-all, June is turning out to be a bloody expensive month… 🙄

AFAIK, the throttle is just a rheostat and as such, sensitivity can be changed via software. I’ve no idea why the first 10mm or so is deliberately deadened, but I’ve found the XLR eliminates this “feature”, even when it’s set to “normal” which is supposed to be BS = Bog Standard

I think that’s about what Prykey, the 1st owner and big participant here, paid for his…. errrr, ours in March ‘16 and he traded it in for a Mustang GT for £18k in December ‘19 and I bought it from an excellent indy front in Colchester, who paid £19k for it.

Oh yeah…forgot about them things!

No mate, they sure ain’t! £1420 more than we paid for our 2016, then 19k miler 3.25 years ago. I’m sure they’d loose that but zero depreciation in 3 years is amazing. And we’ve got a telly, too! 😁

Did you notice that even in “Normal”, the throttle lag has gone?

Buy some panel wipe; that’ll remove every product that’s ever been put on the paint….

Dealers PDI teams never apply these “life” products correctly; they’re not trained and in any event, they simply don’t have the time. i have some experience of these products. I had Diamondbrite applied by JewelUltra to the MKI in 2006 after Benfield in Harrogate (I think that Lookers lot bought them out) completely ruined the application. I have to say that was an amazing product, but it took the guy a full 8 hours to apply it. I continued to keep topping it up as per the instructions right upto the time I parted with it 15 years later. I applied Lifeshine on our MKII and it was pretty good, but in the end, I removed it, bought a DA, reapplied it and then continued to top it up with Poorboys and other products. I’ve not bothered to apply Lifeshine to the MKIII, as it was in fantastic condition. I clayed and DA’d it when I first bought it and I’ve tried a number of products to maintain the paint. Poorboys Natty Black is an amazing wax and I topped this with BlackHole glaze; I used their products and was very pleased with them til I discovered Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Graphene products, starting with their Ceramic and Graphene paste wax; this stuff is amazing and topped with their Pro to the Max wax (which builds), this is the longest lasting LSP, with unbelievable beading and sheeting which literally lasts for months. And it’s not expensive either. Worth a try IMO.

I’ve got 3 DA polishers. A mains DAS-6 Pro, a cordless Makita 18v DPO600Z and a cordless Mini Nano DA and Rotary polisher. The DAS is excellent. It’s light and very powerful, but the Makita has more facilities, including a forced random action if needed. But on the down side, with a 4ah battery, it’s heavier than the DAS. The cheap tiny Nano which I bought from eBay (which is remarkably similar to the Rupes product) is brilliant for hard-to-reach areas, as it has 3” and 1” backing plate, but I notice the latest DAS also includes a 3” plate. in short, I’d recommend the DAS unit. It’s very well made performs brilliantly. Incidentally, the DAS 6 is also very well rated, is comparable to the VonHaus at £90 (Here) and you can get a kit for £135 (Here) with all the required Gyeon compounds and three 6” pads to get you up and running.

….and yeah, it really annoyed me too, so it’s yet another vote for a pedal box, which in my case is a Racechip XLR too. Interestingly, even with it set to “normal”, so the unit is back to the “factory setting” as it were but it’s still inline and working, the throttle lag is still eliminated. However, I have mine set to “Race” permanently, as is the GTS Black Tuning Box. The car can still be driven completely normally until I give the loud one a bit of a shove, and then it’s off like an attacking Cobra… which was always my dream, to have a car which accelerated as quickly as a 289, but without having to spend the £1.2m to get that feeling. In reality though, it doesn’t go that fast; it’s actually faster. 😁 Yeah, yeah, so it doesn’t have that screaming V8 soundtrack (nor the very, very tricky handling, thank gawd!) but in this weather, with the windows open, a bit of wellie and the DSG flicking through the gears, it doesn’t sound half bad either!

Oh dear…. OK, yes, the DSG box can be reset, but what it cannot do, because it is not crammed-full with AI, so it cannot, does not and will not learn your “driving style” regardless of what your VAG specialist might tell you. So before you start being rude to someone who knows what he is talking about, go away and properly educate yourself matey. Oh and just to educate you on another fact, not everything you see and read on the internet is real….bit like you believing a gearbox can “learn” your driving style.

I’d done all four before I’d owned it for 6 months.

It won’t. It’s an automatic gearbox, it’s not a sentient being.

Yep, apologies here too… So today I tripped and smacked my right knee on the basement stairs which, in turn, shocked me that I shot up and smacked the back of my head on the doorframe, then to avoid the K2 bus which decided it HAD to occupy the entire right hand lane, I decided to definitely avoid that and I grazed the NSF alloy….Feeeeeck!!!

Errr… we only “left” 3y4m ago and my memory ain’t that short. No one individual is ultimately to “blame” but what got me was that Johnson flat out lied, and lied and lied. But it was the U.K. population that took us there, for not bothering to inform themselves of some of the realities which would prevail on leaving the EU and how that would directly affect their lives.

The word being Boris?! It still astounds me, that one overweight, blonde, lying, multi-millionaire buffoon, actually persuaded the majority of the U.K. population of this little island, which has no manufacturing industries to speak of, no oil, no gas, old and completely dilapidated infrastructures of every type, which relies on a few foreign-owned financial and service businesses, private banks and its mortgaged housing stock to prop-up its economy, that they’d all be better-off being outside one of the the worlds largest trading economies. Where is that £300m a week for the NHS then, triple B?

Yep, he said the tech had checked all the visible pipework and there was no sign of any other leaks.

UPDATE OK, so over the past couple of weeks, the hissing sound on startup has returned FFS. 😖 On Saturday I went to my trusted indy, Wheelbase in Hersham, for an oil and filter change. As I was chewing the cud with Colin, the owner, I recounted the AC recharge story, the noise etc. He said hang on, walked toward the workshop and said he’d get his tech to check the system for leaks right now using UV. Less than a minute later he came back and confirmed there is a leak, right at the joint where the AC pipe goes into the top of the condenser and judging by the gunge on the joint, it’d been leaking for “sometime”; I asked if that meant more than a couple of weeks and he said “yeah, much longer than that”. He said it wasn’t a problem, it’d take less than an hour to replace the seals, which he’d order today and I’m going back on Saturday to have them replaced. I contacted the Aircon “expert” via WA and informed him what had been discovered. He called me immediately. Although he thought my comment that I felt “ripped off” was a “bit harsh” he reluctantly accepted that he’d “missed” the leak (so by that he meant he’d clearly not tested the system) and he said he refund me, which he did within an hour. In reality he probably decided it was worth doing that to avoid a big negative review. So I stand corrected guys and a big lesson has been learned. And I apologise to Pete, Graham and Colin for not listening, but TBH, I’m even more pi$$ed at myself for being taken-in.

I had an average of 63.6 on our MKI PD140. I did used to do a 110 miles a day round trip commute on weekdays, so that was the reason. But obviously that average included short local trips at the weekend.

Well, that’s sh1te!

I’d be interested to hear if that works, Graham. The most “solid” of the three I’ve had was the MKI, it was just weak in so many other areas! But it was very reliable til the oil pump went and the car filled with water, but of which I had rectified at big expense. And its still going strong in the hands of a Briskodian in Liverpool. I loved the sound of the the doors when they closed, with a hefty deep thud! But the 280 is very well screwed together, the gaps tighter and it’s the quietest by far.

Our armrest creaks…A LOT! I’ve also separated the top from the bottom and packed it as well as I could but it made little difference. The bottom of the armrest doesn’t touch the topsides of the cubby hole; there should be a couple of small, black round bump stops on the front top edge of the cubby, which holds the bottom of the arm rest clear, which I think are specifically there to allow the cooled air to exit. There also a slight buzzing sound - rather like a quiet bumble bee - at 50-70mph from the B pillar, exactly at ear level; no idea what that is.

I think you’ll find that they have, you just haven’t noticed them. The OP in this thread does not appear to’ve come back to it back in Nov 18 to update it with the outcome of the dealer visit. Did he go and they said “that’s normal” or did he realise what others here have said; yep, it’s normal.