numskull

Our 2016 280 engine bay is sort of painted, but there’s practically no lacquer.

I would miss ours but if I take it out of its holder, it disintegrates. I would replace it but not at 40 bloody quid.

Seems correct for the figures others have got and that is also a very good price.

Yep, agree with all of that, and in retrospect I wouldn’t use them, but we all know VAG put up more of a fight for warranty claims if it’s been touched outside the network.

I’ve owned four Skoda over the passed 22 years; a MKI Octavia and then a MKI, a MKII and the current MKIII Superb. Until 18 months ago, I’d always used main dealers to service and repair the cars, but after the dash lit-up like a Christmas tree during a holiday to Ireland and every conceivable safety feature stopped working, on return home, I called Lookers in Guildford. They gave me a 3 1/2 week wait or that’d be 5 weeks if I wanted a courtesy - whoops, nah not anymore of course - a £30 per day rental car, and that was just for me to spend £120 for them to diagnose “the problems, as it sounds like there has been multiple failures” - and their complete lack of help or empathy, I’ll never use any main dealer again. I then called a highly respected local independent VAG specialist, who said I could bring the car into them in three days, I’d have a free loan car and oh, not to worry as it almost certainly would just be a wheel sensor which had failed. And that proved to be exactly the case! I should add that for obvious reasons, I’d always use the main dealer whilst the car is in warranty.

Bit of a boast and a bit of a concern where that was going! I presume you’re looking for a good set and that they’re not too expensive? Gone are the days of Champion and NKG’s at 2 quid a pop; plugs now appear to be ridiculously expensive at about 80 odd quid a set.

It would do, given your car is a diesel with a 16:1 compression ratio; there is s0d all engine braking on the 2.0 TSI.

Sorry J.R.; I understand your annoyance. Not confirmed of course, but perhaps MArky meant “thread” as opposed to “post”?

I’ve honestly never known a new tyre/wheel combination not to need to be balanced.

Hmmmm. I’m guessing you’ve taken the word “crashing” literally; I just meant it as a description. Yes, I’m aware of the FN Chain Gearbox. Well, although we’re mere mortals oh great one, expecting us to do that for you, is a bit of a stretch. 🙄 From what I can tell, the gearbox on our 280 selects 1st at around 2 or 3 mph when slowing to a stop and moves upto 2nd as low as 8-10mph when crawling in traffic or accelerating normally (whatever that is of course).

🙄 It’s downshifting to 1st of course, because that is just not what 1st gear is designed to do. You get a massive crash and huge reverse stress on the clutch pack and all the gearbox and drive chain system. On top of that, I’ve found there’s sod-all engine braking in modern ICE vehicles anyway, including our 280. But it’s your car, your choice.

Yeah, I know 40 years ago was the dark ages or just after WW2 to many under 40, but oddly gearboxes have been able to do this since the introduction of synchromesh on 1st gear on family cars in the late 1960’s. But it’s just designed - which is still the case I might add - to have the gearbox under little or no load and at speed under 5mph, such as coming up to a roundabout with slow moving traffic, but ideally, it still should undertaken when the car is at a standstill.

Not really getting why one would want a semi-auto box to act like a manual but in any event, when I was driving manuals - and I’d estimate this to be circa 1,000 different units during my 23 years in car rental and my S1 and 2 Superbs were both manuals - it’d never occur to me to change down from 2nd to 1st to engine brake. When I learnt to drive 40 odd years ago, I was taught to go into 1st once the car was at a standstill, as basically it was only used to move the car off from being stationary. Still, each to their own I guess…..

Cheers JR 👍🏻

Tough to keep a car clean in South Surbiton too at the moment, I can tell you, as the bloody Sahara is being dumped all over us again… 🙄

Does the wheel need to be coded?

Great when members can help others👍🏻

Weird…. Any other 2021+ owners have this going on?

You can close the hatch with the remote key. Stand within 2 metres of the open hatch and press and hold the hatch button on the key and letting go when it begins to close.

The driving instructor is an idiot.

IME, the loss of the / parts of the tray is due to the idiot technician who couldn’t be bothered to refit it correctly.

Even in “manual” mode, it’ll still change down to 1st at standstill “automatically”.

Brilliant work; I’ll have to have a go at this! Wonder way weren’t they programmed with 6 options from the factory? Weird…

IIRC, having a slider to enable a full range of colours can’t be done, but I believe you can change the three available settings to different colours within VCDS.

Or “let me just lie and say I’ll check with my Manager… who, even if I actually asked them, knows less that I do”.