xman
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Everything posted by xman
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Also worth checking the hard plastic vaccum pipe between brake servo to inlet manifold for splits at both ends and also at the non return valve in the middle. Common fault with age, messes up the fuel/air mixture and also brake pedal assistance (brake pedal goes hard)
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Last visit to the Skoda dealer I was told that the "All in one" skoda servicing/extended warranty/breakdown no longer requires either a full service history or the pre inspection. Any claims on warranty will be assessed at point of claim with regards to cause.
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Has anyone got any actual evidence/experience of a snapped cambelt on the 1.4/1.5tsi ACT engine? I've never heard of one, ever. I haven't seen the 1.5tsi sevice manual, but the 1.4tsi ACT official service manual is clear that cambelts generally won't need changing at 5 years/50,000 miles. As for the special tools required for 0.1 deg accuracy or whatever, this procedure is mentioned in the 1.4tsi ACT service manual too, but iirc ONLY applies to where a cylinder head needs to be replaced or rebuilt.
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I would avoid the 1.6tdi. The 1.6tdi has a reputation for snapped cambelts well before any recommended intervals. I have witnessed one go just a few yards from where I live. A company Superb, serviced on time. Several threads on Briskoda iirc. Also iirc the EGR valve is an issue with this engine, when it fails it is eye wateringly expensive to change due to its inaccessible location at the back of the engine. The 1.6tdi DSG is the dreaded DQ200 dry clutch unit. Are you feeling lucky? The 2.0tdi has a much better reputation for reliabilty although there are reports on the manual gearbox of the Sachs clutch spring diaphragm breaking and chewing its way through the bell housing. Probably only affects certain models/ build years. The 2.0tdi DSG on the other hand is the 6 speed wet clutch unit which is probably the most reliable DSG unit ever made, provided its had its DSG oil changed every 40,000 miles max. With both diesel engine watch out for the coolant reservoir "mit silikat" issue. Search and learn.
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As is today's norm, I expect the millenial designers will be hitting it hard with the ugly stick ala BMW. I expect the infotainment will be even more dire, buggy and subscription based.
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The reason they changed to silver is to denote use of synthetic filter media
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Looks like you've overtightened that filter and so damaged the draindown seal. That in itself leads to low oil pressure. Hand tight only, don't overdo it! On no account use a tool to tighten it.
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Yes that reflects my experience. Bosch are at fault here. I think youll also find that supplied filter is much smaller than either the correct or the incorrect 1.4tsi spec part should be. So definitely not OE spec. I was doubly annoyed when I checked GSF carparts which I normally do but for some reason skipped this time only to find out now that all parts from ECP are 50% dearer than GSF. E.g genuine MANN W712/94 oil filter @ ECP £13.49 @GSF £8.34 Similar difference across all parts, in case of Bosch spark plugs for our HTP, half the price! And showing the correct parts not a confusing list of about 7 or 8 different parts some of which are not remotely suitable. Irony is I pass GSF to drive to ECP!! Might return unused items to ECP for a refund.
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They exchanged it for a Mann Filter straight away no argument. Not sure if there would be any issue raised with their QA I have always used Mann oil filters without any problems but they have got more expensive recently. I have used Bosch oil filters for our fabia 1.2htp and again this looks like a Mann rebrand and so no isuues
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I won't give you our reg no but ts a 2011 1.2tsi Octavia Estate with CBZB engine, same filter is used on our now deceased 2013 1.2tsi Fabia estate with CBZA engine.
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I checked the part no on the box, it was the correct part no. as per Bosch catalogue. But knowing what to expect I immediately knew it was the wrong style. It was almost much shorter than the Mann/VAG filter. Many on this and other forums use ECP, they are usually a reliable supplier if you stick to the quality brands. This warning is for anyone with EA111 1.2tsi engines, whether doing DIY or using independents, many of which will use Bosch parts and not have a clue that what they are using is wrong as it seems to have a correct part no on the box/filter. I guess that hundreds have been fitted. And how many have had engines trashed, written off or had expensive unnecessary repairs Problem lies with Bosch. This lack of QA when they change supplier calls into question whether to risk using Bosch aftermarket parts at all. I won't from now on.
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This warning applies to all models fitted with the 1.2tsi EA111 chaincam engines, includes Fabia, Octavia,Yeti, Rapid, Spaceback maybe some others. Also a wide range of other VAG models VW, Seat, Audi with the 1.2tsi engines Today I picked up a Bosch Filter from Eurocarparts for our 2011 1.2tsi Octavia. Checked it before leaving the shop and it is the wrong style of filter. The sealing arrangement on this Bosch filter is for the 1.4tsi engine and is NOT suitable for the 1.2tsi. Also it is a Black filter and not Silver indicating it has a paper filter element and not the synthetic filter that is specified for tsi engines and is the only type suitable for an extended serivce regime (2yr/18600 miles) Bosch filters are rebranded filters made by other manufacturers and have appeared in this case to have changed from MANN made in Germany to another manufacturer now made in France. MANN filters being the OE manufacturer for VAG supplying VAG branded filters to dealers. This may explain the issue experience of @Dazl1212 and his knocking engine Now I know he definitely had the incorrect filter type fitted. So probably had low oil pressure damaging his engine. He ended up getting shut of his car Bosch evidently have not checked their new supplier is shipping the correct part. They are using the 1.2tsi part no but supplying a 1.4tsi part. What it should look like, note the rubber sleeve This is what the Bosch filter ECP supplied looked like except it was in Black and had the 1.2tsi part no printed on the box For reference this is the correct MANN OE filter That sleeve is important. Even Mahle in their video I posted elsewhere warn not to confuse the 2 filter styles. Genuine VAG filter
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You have low oil pressure, the chain is suffering due to low tension. As the oil pressure warning light is coming on you should not drive or run any further as you risk/creating rapid engine damage. Is this the 1.2htp 3 cylinder engine? You need to check oil level, and replace the oil filter which may be blocked and check the 2 small o rings on the plastic central partof the plastic filter cap that goes through the filter are still there and in good condition. Items 16 and 17 in the diagram below. Without those small o rings, oil pressure is compromised.
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IIRC this is a known VAG manufacturing issue and TPI's have been issued for 1.0tsi engines of a certain production range/age. This problem should have been addressed during routine servicing. Not sure if a recall was issued so if not serviced within the dealer network or a good independent using ERWIN it will have been missed. Others may be able to dig up the relevant TPI.
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TBH those phone videos are pretty useless for diagnosing (as most phone videos tend to be). They do sound more or less like a 1.2Tsi sounds like. In my experience (2 cars) they are very tappetty engines with the bonnet up. And an annoying louder knock in my experience comes from the high pressure fuel pump which is located on the rear of the camcover, large hex bolt, stainless pipes in/out. Try as @sepulchrave suggests with large screwdriver/ear. Even still could be camchain slapping, who changed the chain and did they do the complete kit? Tensioner, chain, 2 guides, top and bottom sprockets and new crankshaft seal.
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Not sure how a mechanic can say definitely little end noise. Little end being the piston/conrod connection. Before scrapping, attempting a stripdown, or fitting a recon engine you should try to establish if the engine is working at the correct oil pressue and flow. If oil pressure is low you will get big end knocking. So, does the red oil warning light (pressure) light up when ignition is first turned on before starting the engine. Does the light go out promptly when the engine has started? During the initial start do you get a rattle/machine gun sound for a short while? (Loose camchain, tensioner not extended due to low pressure). May be extended if pressure is constantly too low. For the sake of around £50 or so and 15 mins DIY I would buy a genuine Filter from a reputable source (not EBay or Amazon) e.g. Mann W712/94 VAG 03C 115 561 H Mahle OC 593/3 Change the oil and filter (3.6 - 3.9 litres vw spec 504.00 or 502.01 oil required) To eliminate possibility of blocked/faulty/counterfeit chinese filter (counterfeits are more common than most people realise)
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No such engine as a 1.2tsi 3 cylinder VAG engine! Its either 1.2 HTP 3 cylinder 1.2 Tsi 4 cylinder EA111 1.2 Tsi 4 cylinder EA211 Common problems on 3 cylinder HTP are random failing/failed individual coil packs, usually when spark plugs are worn. Shows up on OBD diagnostic scan. Or buy a new coil pack (around £30) and swap around till cured. Check plugs at same time. Common problem on EA111 (camchain engine) is no 3 plug lead failure ( goes open circuit due to heat from nearby turbo), needs to be addressed asap as the coil pack ( one that feeds all plugs) often breaks down shortly afterwards due to over voltage stress. Change plugs if done 50,000 miles or more. (60k official period a bit too long) OBD diagnostic usually picks up the correct cylinder though could also say no.1 as it shares the coil in a wasted spark setup. Needs a proper boot removal tool to remove plug lead from plug to avoid damage to lead. Don't know much about EA211 (cambelt engine). They have individual coil packs and 40k mile spark plug change. Needs a special tool to lift the coil packs to avoid damaging them when lifting off the plugs. OBD scan should reveal which cylinder is misfiring I don't think the spaceback ever had the 3 cylinder HTP engine so one of the others. The change from EA111 to EA211 was around 2014 iirc. So could be either. OBD readers can be bought from about £20, useful tool that can be used on any car. Far cheaper than a diagnostic scan at a dealer which they charge between £60-£100 for with no guarantee they find anything or the correct thing.
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All top mounted filters will drain down when you remove them, but you have to remember to loosen them off and allow time to drain down before lifting off. In the case of the plastic topped housings with cartridge filters, unscrew until off the threads so the o ring seal is cracked open. Then wait a minute and slowly lift the cap.
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Look at the video in my previous post. Put plenty of cloth/paper towel around the oil filter housing. Remove the oil filler cap. Loosen the oil filter by about 2 turns then leave it for about 2 to 3 mins to allow the oil to drain down though the drainage channel as explained in the article I posted above. Then slowly spin the filter off and just watch out for the odd drip. Check the draindown gasket is not left behind (again refer to the Mahle article above). If there's one in there AND another in the old filter it would explain low oil pressure and kocking sounds. If refitting the old filter put that gasket into the oil filter plastic end frame. If the gasket is distorted as they often are when over tightened then you should change the filter for a new one.
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Sounds fairly normal to me, our 1.2tsi cars always sounded very rattly when stood outside and the bonnet up. The deeper knocking sounds more like gearbox input shaft (does it disappear when you depress the cluch?), might be that bottom engine mount. Or perhaps crank big end knocking, though I've never read of that on a 1.2tsi engine. The oil filter part no is correct. But Im puzzled why its black as Im pretty certain the Bosch filter should be silver as its a rebadged Mann OE (VAG) filter. Might be a counterfeit. https://catalog.mann-filter.com/file/Product/MediaAssets/MFPI097_en_Silver_oil_filters.pdf I'm afraid the only way to check the seal is to remove the filter, check and refit. Might as well change it then. Useful tips https://www.mpulse.mahle.com/en/article/changing-filters-and-gaskets
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Yes. The draindown seal has a habit of dropping out of the old filter when removing, partly stuck to the machined face in the housing and hiding under a residual pool of black oil. Poor mechanic that doesnt check with their fingers. Result is constant low oil pressure and flow. The critical chain tensioner relies soley on oil pressure (plus a weak spring), so the chain tension is too low which can be disastrous. Sometimes a mechanic fits the earlier 1.4tsi style of oil filter instead of the correct 1.2tsi type. Hence why Pete is asking for the oil filter part no, you should be easily able to see it on the filter. The video shows a black filter indicating an aftermarket type, VAG and Mann, Bosch equivalents are Silver.
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Of course Ive been assuming from the 1st video that its a manual. But if I'm wrong and its a DSG auto you also have the possibility of a failing DMF.
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A good german car specialist would be able to check your car quickly and give a verdict. Most large towns have one . As you are in Chorley have you tried https://www.chorleyautovolk.co.uk/index.php
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https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/seat/E/LE/703/1/199/199065 Part 27 on the diagram I think You need to have car up on a ramp to see it properly. Maybe if you jack up gearbox side, remove wheel youll be able to see it. Maybe looks like this (looking up from directly underneath)
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Also have you checked all the engine mounts in particular the restrictor under the car between gearbox and body. Sometimes the securing bolt shears or can be loose.
