xman

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/RAP/740/1/145/145040

They can be a little stiff. Grab hold of the plastic bulb connector, push it forwards and at the same twist it counter clockwise (looking from behind the connector toward the front of the car). Some twist easily, others need a fair amount of force Note this applies to cars fitted with a projector (lens) headlight fitted with single H7 bulb and shutter dip operated. May be different for cars fitted with seperate main and dip bulbs or reflector headlights using H4 bulbs

If you have altered coding in another Module then that may be your problem. Modules not shutting down when the ignition is turned off. Its time for you to measure the current drawn from the battery when everything is turned off.

Check the fuel pump relay. Give it a tap while trying to start. Sorry can't tell where to look.

Fuel pump relay used to be a common problem in VAG models. Dry joints in the relay.

I think your problem is you went to Halfords.

Fuses fitted to cars are of the slow blow type. They are fundamentally there to protect the wiring loom, not necessarily the wiring of items plugged into aux sockets designed in the 1950's. A socket designed for a cigarette lighter with inconsistent connection force and incompatible or daft contact material (chrome plated steel). Spring loaded floppy domed pin. A slow blow fuse can tolerate 2x its rated current for minutes. Several years ago on a winter continental trip in my mk1 Alhambra, we used a plug in kettle for coffee and soup. After several jug fulls it wasn't long before smoke and a horrible cable burning smell started coming from the plug. The 10 or 15A fuse didn't blow. A lot of plug in devices that use that cigarette lighter socket have thin leads, for flexibilty, cost etc. A lot dont have strain relief and even have coaxial type cable. People pull and twist cables to remove plugs and this invariably leads to cable damage. A fuse in the plug would be a good idea, but never seen that. I'm not aware this it's major issue apart from the "bloody thing isn't working" but there is a theoretical potential for an electrical fire. Having witnessed it myself

Yup, more often than not its the arm broken as in those pics thats the problem and not the wiper blade, or tension spring etc. Been there, wasted much time, but finally got the t-shirt. Getting the arm off the spine may require the use of a puller because the ally insert is usually corroded and stuck fast.

LLIII or Longlife 3 refers to a VW504.00/507.00 spec oil. Generally 5w30 but now in dealers is usually 0W30 0W20 oils in VAG dealer world is Longlife 4 VW508.00/509.00 spec oil. Only for use with recent engines, not to be used on older engines certainly nothing in the fabia mk2 category. It is NOT backwards compatible with older oil specs I'd ignore what the dealer invoice says, its auto generated by a service dept computer. The actual product used is whoever has the contract for Quantum oil. Castrol were dropped years ago. Nobody updates the service dept computer database. The quantity column often has no relation to how much oil is actually used. https://tps.trade/products/oil

I had the problem of a leaking sump plug on my 2018 1.4tsi Superb noticed after its 2nd service. Returned to dealer who checked (with video) the plug was tightened correctly (30Nm). It was. So they changed the sump plug (with its captive washer). Still it leaked. So they consulted "Skoda parts technical". They said fit an "squashable washer". Which they did, and continue to do so at each oil change, fixing the leak. Why did it leak? Well on the available evidence, the leaking sump plugs obviously did not sit square with the sealing face. So possibly, They fitted the wrong plug (quite possibly) see pic below Or The dealer had a bad batch of sump plugs badly machined or captive washer thickness variation or head seat not correct geometry. Or The sump thread has been damaged at some point. Or something is not right with the machined face on the sump. It did leave the factory ok, and the 1st oil change was OK with no leak. Or not enough to drip on the driveway. Part nos (CZEA engine, probably used on other engines) According to the dealer they finally fitted Sump plug N90288901 Crush Washer N0138157 Hope this helps

Are those vertical slats across the entire width passenger side of the dash some kind of giant concealed vent? Ridiculous likkle knobs at the ends look an afterthought. In any case any thing plastic thats not flat is a dust magnet and a nightmare to keep and look clean. I see they borrowed my £99 P.O.S. Galaxy Tab A and stuck it in the middle of the dash. There was some talk of manufacturers dropping Android Auto/Apple play as it highlights anything that car manufacturers put on the infotainment as generally shyte, like most navigation systems. Plus they'll be able to make everything subscription and make those overpaid executives happy. Gearlever relocated to the steering column .. Woohoo! Back to the sixties!! Full width benchseat an option?

4 or 5 clicks to hard on is ideal, 2 clicks is ridiculously tight and the brakes may not fully release. Likely to drag/wear pads and reduce economy. Which is what Skoda dealers like because it gives them work. Dragging also cooks the calipers long term. Difference between 2 to 4 clicks is likely just a bit of cable stretch as you speculated, but no harm in checking the balance at the bracket. Pop out the rearmost tray in the centre console to gain access. You'll see the adjuster nut, requires small 10mm open ended spanner.

My son and daughter in law recently had low speed front end shunts and both their cars were deemed written off. In both cases just asked for a photo of the damage and immediately wrote off with offer being made by text with a link to accept the offer. No inspection just straight to scrapyard. I think some companies don't want the hassle of repairing anymore or even employing/paying loss assesors.

My experience of LV is they invest in joint ventures repair centres for their exclusive use. Decent paint and body mangling facilities. Offer a decent warranty on repairs and paintwork too. They source any parts they possibly can from China. On the Fabia, it all looked very decent, except the bonnet weighed 1/3 of the OE part and no manner of shuffling about could they get shutlines looking straight and the same on both sides. Not to mention the gaps. I doubt it had the crash worthiness of the original being it was so thin.

Smart only in the mind of young inexperienced engineers and marketing executives. Hope they don't go on to design battle tanks or fighter jets.

You won't be able to de-pin whatever that means. These like countless other connectors have crimp and insert/latch in housing once only male/female pins. You will need to source new unused pins (unlikely to be available to general public), you will need some kind of tool to remove the existing housed pins (unlikely to exist if even possible) and then some decent wire stripping and crimping tools, the crimping tool is usually designed for the particular range of pins and so expensive and difficult to identify and source. How do I know all this? Because I had an electronics manufacturing company and spent considerable monies on tooling for various connectors which I still have in a cupboard somewhere. Whats wrong with just cutting out the bad section of wire and replacing with new wire? Solder or crimp and of course decent flexible correctly sized sleeving.

How many clicks does the lever need for handbrake fully on? Are they disc or drum rear brakes? Shouldn't require adjusting as its self adjusting (drums or discs) If the handbrake is coming up really high then that might be a broken or almost broken cable. Have you tried pressing hard on the brake pedal and then pulling the handbrake on hard and releasing a few times? That should reset the drum/disc self adjusters. If drum brakes, may require stripping and cleaning to get them working properly again.

Of course it's never occurred to them it might just be a tyre(s). Maybe combined with wheel alignment that cause them to wear abnormally, often just sawtooth wear pattern due to incorrect camber/toe in. Or just a duff tyre. Fairly simple to check, just requires some logical thinking. Having pulled the gearbox and thus stripping down the front suspension in the process, did they bother with a full 4 wheel alignment check/adjustment after reassembly? That should be normal practice and is needed before fitting new tyres to prevent more tyre damage.

It all depends, different revisions and suppliers, some have replaceable actuators others don't.

Not true, the common turbo related failure on the 1.2tsi and later tsi engines is failure of the electric actuator. Happened on my sons fabia, at 110,000 miles of high speed mostly motorway miles. 504.00 oil changes every 8-9k miles. My other sons 1.2tsi Octavia went 170k miles without any turbo issues with a lot of 20k mile oil changes.

Just saying.... I updated maps on our 2018 Superb Columbus unit last time using a 2.5" portable HDD. Can't remember it was FAT32 or NTFS formatted. It was a hell of a lot faster to unzip/copy and also when updating the Columbus. Far less faffing about than using an SD card.

As of July Skoda UK and their dealer network changed their stance on cambelt intervals. There is now no time limit and a mileage limit of something like 140,000 miles. Applies to all cars/engines afaik. Try doing a search for cambelt interval and you will see plenty of posts confirming this. Also applies to other VAG group vehicles. No need to change water pump either unless its leaking.

Does the radiator fan come on, at full speed? If not it maybe a fan motor, sensor/thermal switch or wiring issue. It could be a failing water pump. Some have impellers that come detatched lowering the ability to pump. Is the coolant a nice and clean colour, if it is brown and murky you may have radiator blockages.

Have you a remote key that you could try? I would start by checking for broken wires in the rubber concertina gaitor between the A pillar and the door.

That is simply informing you that because you have too many power consumers working (ac, heated seats for example) the start stop is temporarily disabled as inappropriate or because SOC/HOC is insufficient. SOC/HOC = State and Health of Charge battery management data