xman

Check its not a gearbox issue, does it do it when stood and clutch depressed?

Difficult to say but sounds like its a very worn/loose chain drive Not so, on this engine the camcover is also the integrated camshaft carrier.

Far more likely your battery is dying. Power steering cuts outs out if voltage dips too low. Check the battery voltage. Maybe try recharging it for a minimum of 24 hours.

Reread your own post, or better still post the gov quotation with the full formatting Clearly the "Otherwise you'll need to” is if either or both of the 2 previous statements are not true. In other words you can drive away on a fail provided no Dangerous problems listed and still have a current MOT.

Check the brake vacuum piping, start at the servo, look/ feel for splits at all ends/joints right up to the inlet manifold. There will be a one way plastic valve half way and the piping often splits there too. The hard pipe splits longitudinally from an end, of you can move/ rotate the pipe from the joint, it is splitand allowing air into the intake manifold, upsetting the petrol/air ratio. This causes loss of power and stalling issues particularly when pressing the brake pedal which might go "hard" prematurely. Gradients and accel/decel will rock the engine and the piping move, any splits open up. As for windows ,check loom condition in the rubber gaitors between the doors and pillars, pull the gaitos back and inspect. Check all doors. Both issues are inevitable with age.

Try your local TPS. They are the official spare parts suppliers to VAG dealers and independents and can supply everything you need. https://tps.trade/

I had a similar issue with the 6 speed manual gearbox on our son's 2011 1.2tsi Octavia Estate a year ago. While investigating a gearbox oil leak with the car up on ramps the independent mechanic grabbed the output shafts and twisted them in opposite directions and the the output flanges moved in/out by 10mm+ !! Due to it being an NBW gearbox code, at the time no replacement was available anywhere but fortunately he referred me to a great local gearbox specialist who knew straight away what the problem was, quite common with high mileage VAG manual gearboxes. Both diff output bearings were shot. Probably caused by a slow gearbox leak from the shaft seals over the years that left hardly half a litre gearbox oil in. Removed box, stripped and replaced both diff output bearings and seals for £650. Noted some blueing on the gears indicating overheating due to exteme low oil. Fortunately gears not black which is when they are totally knacked and case hardening gone. If I had left it any longer it would soon have started eating through the inside of the casing and at best would require a complete new diff and pinion which is much more expensive, at worst it would be scrap. So don't delay.... Gearbox code is on the boot PR build code sticker. Might also have the PR code sticker on your service booklet.

Check no.3 plug lead resistance, should be around 9k ohms (OEM lead). Very common issue is this lead goes open circuit due to heat damage. Hence misfires, EPC and ESC/traction control lit. Remove the spark plug boot with an appropriate tool, don't pull by the lead as you will probably break the core

Check no.3 plug lead resistance, should be around 9k ohms (OEM lead). Very common issue is this lead goes open circuit due to heat damage. Hence misfires, EPC and ESC/traction control lit. Remove the spark plug boot with an appropriate tool, don't pull by the lead as you will probably break the core

Google Maps on Android Auto or Apple Carplay is vastly superior to Skoda maps and always free, just plug your phone into the usb port and select the appropriate option on the infotainment

As per Warrior193 above, the plastic bag containing "silicate" granules has failed emptying its contents into the cooling system. Common on 2.0l diesel engines of a certain vintage with coolant tank having "Mit Silikat" printed on it. A search on Briskoda and other forums will reveal the extent of damage that results, blocked matrix and radiators. Extremely difficult to flush out, often at great cost when requiring a host of parts changing. Iirc some members successfully got Skoda to repair for little cost under goodwill, if you shout loud and long enough.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nYD-9GInI8Y

See this very recent post

I think by now and the nimber of threads and posts its accepted that the rear discs on Superb 3 are materially rubbish. So much so that apparently there's a TPI issued about it as reported by someone else. Basically saying that Skoda has acknowledged a supplier issue and supposedly resolved on later cars. I don't know the content of this alleged TPI, but if true then I think Skoda are more open to warranty claims. IMO, going to an independent with instructions to fit your preferred brand (e.g. Brembo) is something I would rather do than fight yet again with my dealer.

I have to support @JG671, why would he lie or make up a story? It failed the MOT at a mere 25,000 miles because of the tyre defects. I fully accept what he says I have experienced several unexplainable incidents / strange wear with tyres, a similar circumferential delamination phenomenon on 2 sets of Goodyear efficient performance tyres where the main tread appeared to seperate from the sidewall moulding. A pair of Michelin Crossclimates that got very strange isolated patches of wear and became eccentric and very noisy. So manufacturing defects do occur even on top of the range tyres. I don't understand the random comment about MOT bush testing, nobody mentioned bush testing as far as I read. Its not helpful to dismiss what people say because in your opinion the problem does not exist. That is an attitude I expect only a Skoda dealer to take.

Did you buy the correct wheel bearing? Some mk1 fabias have ABS, others do not. They have different wheel bearings, the only difference being ABS type have the integrated ABS magnetic ring. Link to the item you bought?

If you were to check the inner face of the disc, I suspect you will see the outside area is shiny and the inner area rusty, i.e. an inverted pattern that would confirm the caliper is not aligned square to the disc.

No you shouldn't.

As a follow up to my previous post, I spoke too soon. The 2nd upgraded chain rapidly deteriorated at 150k miles ( less than 80,000 miles in service) where the death rattle was heard on virtually every start, hot or cold. Had it replaced and retained all parts for inspection, the sprockets had wear marks and it seems the inverted tooth chain does not fully engage the full depth of the sprockets either by design or poor QC.

I repeat, look at the old disk photos and the new disk photo shows EXACTLY the same pattern. No contact on the outer 40% or so. I presume this only aafects one side, the OP has shown both old discs of which only one has that rust band but only shown the one disc on the new set. Old disc New disc Something is bent, broken or incorrectly fitted. A good independent should sus whats going on after a few minutes looking.

What were the exact words of the advisory? I advise you examine the tyres yourself, measure with a depth gauge if you have one or simply check the wear bars to see how close the tyres are to the limit. Many MOT stations that sell tyres basically lie in order ro upsell you some new tyres. I would be wary of buying Continental tyres as they now seem to start life at a ridiculously shallow tread depth of 6mm instead of the 7 to 8mm that others have. My personal favourites are Vredestein Quatro series, they are mid range all season tyres and in my experience have excellent life and don't experience the cracking or abnormal wear of the many premium tyres I've tried, in particular Michelin Cross Climate and Energy ranges Btw my 2018 Superb is fitted with 235 45r18 P7 tyres, done 22,000 miles, fronts reported and checked by myself at 5.5mm tread depth, less than half worn, rear at 6mm+. Great condition too, incredible. BUT they are noisy and harsh as hell and tend to drone on many surfaces, so not recommended unless you are deaf or have the radio turned up really loud.

Read the manual

Only if its the same both sides

AFAIK You can only download manuals in PDF format for model builds up to 2018 , after that its an online digital manual accessed through a web browser or through the cars infotainment (mib3) https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Whether you actually need to inform your insurance company depends on the terms and conditions detailed in your policy, which you should check carefully. If you inform your insurance company that your car has been involved in an accident, it will always affect your renewal premium regardless of who was to blame and even if the third party pays for all repairs. It will also need to be declared when changing insurance companies when asking for a quote, usually for 3 to 6 years depending on the company. The effect on your NCB should be detailed both in your renewal documents and your policy document. Depends on the company but if you have full NCB its unlikely to be affected.