xman

Oh! I think you can only reset it with the trip button AFTER the service is due. You'll have to wait another 3 days until it says service due now.

Ummm... Maybe try this then (works on my fabia) Make sure all doors/bonnet are closed Turn on the harzard warning lights (yes) Hold trip button down, turn ignition on, continue holding down the trip button until "inspection reset?" eventually shows, may take several seconds to pop up. Finally release button, after a couple of seconds, press the trip button to confirm. Turn off ignition followed by hazards

EV <> ICE Electric motor <> Engine Battery <> Fuel tank Electric Charge <> Liquid Fuel An advantage ICE has over EV is an EV battery is much heavier than a fuel tank filled with liquid fuel with equivalent range. And as the ICE uses up the fuel, it gets lighter, unlike an EV discharging its battery. Some might consider the ability to carry some liquid fuel in a hand held container to top up a tank as maybe useful.

I think the trick is press the trip button and hold it down, turn ignition on, keep the trip button held down, the service reset message appears, all the time keep holding that button and the inspection reset message then appears after a few seconds. Then release the trip button and repress to confirm.

All brake pads sold in Europe comply with ECE 90 regs so performance will always be broadly similar to OE. Ive used Bosch and Brembo with no issue, TRW are OE so should be OK. I personally would choose a ceramic pad such as the ATE pads

Its a variable displacement compressor and so doesn't have a clutch. So its either low on gas or oil. Note that even a perfect a/c is not totally noise free, so depends on what you class as noisy.

Have you tried the trip button method? https://youtu.be/nYD-9GInI8Y

Its probably low on refrigerant but as its a 2022 model, only one year old you should take it in to a Skoda dealer and complain and get it sorted under warranty. Maybe has a leak in the a/c or worst case, a failing compressor.

Would be interesting to know what insurance companies would think about installing a battery pack from a crashed/written off vehicle. I suspect they would require some kind of certification/inspection from a qualified source, as you would with CAT S/N. https://www.reuters.com/business/autos-transportation/scratched-ev-battery-your-insurer-may-have-junk-whole-car-2023-03-20/ https://insideevs.com/news/676528/ev-insurance-higher-lack-of-repair-data/ Please quote prices INCLUDING VAT as thats what most people will have to pay.

What I would do is remove each wheel in turn and inspect. Possibly a brake shield is corroded and falling off and resonating under the braking scenario.

Have any of your tyres ever been repaired? I had something similar once and it was the (badly) repaired tyre to blame.

Pretty certain that number plate is illegal 🙃 They just dug up at the bottom of our street to repair the cable feeding the ~1km string of lamposts we have on the street. I guess the patched up 10mm diameter cable I saw just didn't take the strain of an EV owner plugging in.

The rear can be adjusted. There are offset cam bolts that are rotated to adjust the camber settings. These have either moved over time, or the rear springs may have settled. Maybe you carry heavy loads in the back, in which case the camber should be set with a typical load you have. You should always have some load in the boot eg a couple of car batteries when setting the rear camber.

The question we should all be asking is why so many Skoda rear calipers need changing. (Poor design/quality) and why VAG brake components in general are such poor quality. Why are VAG and Skoda in particular not using better quality disks and ceramic pads? I'd not notice the extra £50 on the rrp of the vehicle and I'd appreciate the low brake dust and long life of pads and disks.

I like a good laugh like the next man, but it's a bit too early for me. Spoken like a true politician💩 Free driveways for everyone!!

Switch to the other memory bank. Long term data v journey data. All explained in the user manual https://manual.skoda-auto.com/210/en-GB/Detail?model=Octavia_5E&edition=05-2016&market=&manualLang=en

Bit late, 5 years ago this happened. OP probably got paid off by VAG in addition to insurance settlement. In that case they probably will have made them sign an NDA. Or maybe they just couldn't be bothered, and bought a different brand replacement.

Temporary fix, while you source a new pipe, use some self almalgating tape stretched tightly over the splits and joints. Doesn't stop the vacuum leaking completely, but safer to run than doing nothing. The non return valve in the middle of the pipe run will probably be shot too. It comes as part of the replacement pipe. My independent specialist sourced one from TPS for my BZG 1.2 engine. Cost £42 iirc and they fitted it for free, took less than 5 minutes, most of that being to find the tub of grease which they lightly smeared on the ends to assist fitting. The independent remarked that with some VAG engines (golfs came up), he found it impossible to source a replacement.

Thank you for pointing out my fat finger issues.

Maybe look here https://digital-manual.skoda-auto.com/w/en_GB/welcome

Check the condition of the brake vacuum line all the way from brake servo reservoir to inlet manifold, check for splits at ends and junctions and loose fit. May not be the cause but its quick and easy to check and the hard plastic piping is often split at that age, causing fuel mixture issues and potentially brake assistance issues.

Do you carry your key in your back pocket? Not sure but a possible scenario, if the car is locked and you press (sit on) and hold the open button, the windows will open, but if no door is opened it will relock after a couple of minutes. I don't know if the windows will close though. You can experiment with this and see if thats true. Edit: posted at same time as your previous....

Maybe you had parked on an incline or car was leaning to one side. I reckon you parked facing uphill? The level sensor is mounted at the rear of the sump on the 1.5 tsi so will be affected by gradient. I think it probably can only take sensible measurements when the engine is not running, so probably measures just before you start it. Note that opening the bonnet allegedly resets oil level warnings for a period, not sure if time or mileage So long as the level is not showing significantly above the top of region A (see pics below) you're ok. By that I'd say 5mm max.

Low on gas, they often sound like that when very low. Get it regassed, though don't forget to tell them before they do it that you want to know how much gas came out during the purge/vacuum cycle. The a/c regassing machine will tell them. My fabia with similar noises, 100g extracted which was 20% of the 500g full quantity. The exact quantity your car requires is printed on a sticker on the slam panel. Will also tell you if it uses R134a gas (cheap) or the newer R1234yf gas (expensive) Many tyre outlets offer the service much cheaper than a dealer. Takes about 45 minutes to do a regas.

I always aim to keep the oil level at the centre of the hatched area on the dipstick or slightly above. Never fill more than ¼ litre in one go, and recheck the level after 2 or 3 minutes, before deciding whether to add more. I often find ½ litre is enough to take the oil level from the bottom of the hatched area to the top, and not the 1 litre often quoted. With fast cornering or significant gradients/tilts or extreme acceleration/braking, if the oil level is too low, there is the possibility of the the level being below the pickup and losing all oil pressure. On the other hand if the oil level is too high, the crank could hit and churn the oil in the sump and aerate it, with the result of total and prolonged loss of oil pressure as oil pumps don't work with aerated oil. To answer the OP's question, if you must drive with too much oil, drive very gently, avoid high acceleration, sharp braking and cornering. Hmm...to remove 1 litre drop by drop by redipping and wiping would take around 3000 redips and wipes assuming 0.33ml removed each time, around 12 - 48 hours if done non stop. You sadist..😉