xman

Check the battery fitted is an EFB or AGM battery, should say on the top. They might have fitted a standard car battery which are not suitable and will have a short service life. (EFB and AGM generally don't have a 5 yr warranty) Plus did Halfords recode the battery management system when the battery was fitted? To reset health parameters, tell it that a new battery is fitted and what type EFB/AGM it is. I suspect not so the battery management still thinks the old battery (inc type and health data) is fitted. The manual states you must only jump start using the ground tab and not the negative post as you are bypassing the battery current sensor and confusing the battery management.

You need very precise part no info, just take it from the headlight already fitted on your car. It may be a high end full matrix type, basic led or even halogen type, left/right, lhd/rhd and may be year eg facelift dependent. Usually only the last letter changes.

Turbo failures are relatively rare. Ignition problems are far more common.

1.2tsi CBZA/CBZC engines. I know them well 2 possibilities in order of likelyhood. Reading OBD codes will tell you which it is. (A cheap OBD reader can be had for under £25) Ignition fault, usually number 3 lead has gone open circuit or/and ignition coil pack failed. Check lead first. Plugs may be worn which can trigger this chain of events. or The turbo waste gate (electrical) actuator has failed, either the actuator has itself failed (depending on turbo fitted, this may be replaceable for around £250) or the waste gate may have jammed. May be freeable but could need a new turbo/actuator at around £1300+ If the car is juddering when trying to accelerate its the ignition fault as it will be running on 2 cylinders. Turbo problem is simply limp mode, difficult to get above 30mph, but otherwise smooth running

You should take your car to a dealer or trusted mechanic and get them to check the camshaft phaser pulleys located at the top of the timing cover (easily removed to check) and driven by the cambelt. 1.0 and 1.2tsi engines of certain bulid dates have a known issue where one or both phasers start to come apart (bolts come undone and drop out, dumping oil in the timing cover and on the cambelt. Eventually leading to catastrophic failure if not caught in time. Requires cleaning up, new pulleys and cambelt and timing to be setup. You may be able to see oil round bottom of timing cover, or on the undertray in that area.

Yes and in the case of a 2017 1.4tsi its a pretty safe option unless you do lots of short runs/cold starts where engine oil does not reach optimum temperature which is usually not until 5+ miles. The interval is 18,600 miles/737 days (2 yrs + 1 week) whichever comes first. Car service must use appropriate long life oil (VW 504.00 spec)

Its ...ok .....guys 🥱, my insomnia is well and truly cured now......zzzzzz😴😴

90%+ of misfire issues are simply electrical/ignition problems So first check/change plugs and coils Swap coils 1& 2 and see if the fault code move to cylinder 1 to see if the coil is to blame

I had/have similar with our Superb 3 from new. Also a loud click/bang when drivers window is winding down after an inch or so from fully closed. The electric windows in the Superb in general sound as if they are struggling inder excessive load. Similar issues with folding mirrors, the drivers side occasionally juddering while it folds/unfolds. Basically gives the impression of a cheap and nasty setup/components not the silent smooth operation that other cars all seem to have I found that rubbing silicone spray into the bottom rubber/felt seals (window wound right down to expose) and the side/top guides too eased up the window operation, sounds less strained and a bit smoother. But suspect only its only a temporary fix. So I think the reason is everything is assembled too tight or the seals/guides are not flexible enough that strain the window motors and mechanics. Couldn't fix the mirrors from juddering though. Internal gearing issue. Not bothered with dealer as no doubt they would say no fault found.

I think all Superb mk3 have R1234yf Look next to the bonnet release lever

If I ever have trouble sleeping, I think I will try reading this thread, particularly some of @lol-lol recent posts. They are so long and full of random facts that I'm sure I'd nod off within a couple of minutes. 🥱

A litre over the maximum stick level is a lot and yes, it was way too much. So in the end, it didn't need topping up at all. If you'd bother reading the manual it does tell you to top up in increments of 0.5 litre then rechecking. Personally I think 0.25 litre is a safer increment and fill only to a max level ½ to ⅔ up the hatched area of the dipstick. Remember to follow the procedure, car dead level, engine warm/hot and switched off for a few minutes. Remove dipstick and wipe clean, then dip and check. Wipe and redip to check again.

Considering over 50% of the cost of an EV is the battery, this seems a very strange commericial decision. Or are they using the large unused capacity to mask the actual degradation over time.

Today I saw a Leaf stranded on the road not far from us. Someone stopped on other side obviously come to help. A couple of guys walking round it. There was what looked like one of those jump starter packs on the grass verge, not sure what use that would be or maybe it was a small genny. They seemed to be trying to move it by pushing, without success. Location was about 500 yards past a Tesco with some chargers in the car park.

Check the one way clutch on the alternator hasn't seized.

It was 4yr/40k miles for 1.9pd engines. Reason being the crap design, undersized belt and excessive high peak forces imposed by the unit injectors leading to many early failures. Previous TDi being 6yr/60k miles. VAG UK then adopted the unique non standard not factory recommended early intervals, presumably to avoid warranty claims and give dealers extra guaranteed work.

Why not take it to a dealer and see if its a warranty job?

Most people never ever wash off the the winter salt and crud stuck to the suspension and underneath of their cars . It only takes a couple of minutes wth a hose on full blast to remove the worst accumulation. Prolongs spring life, they fail due to rust. The black paint that VAG suppliers put on their suspension components is micron thin and purely cosmetic offering no real protection whatsoever. Despite its appearance, the subframe is made with substantially thick steel. Its around the welds and brackets that maybe the weak points as they are never properly finished or painted.

I believe it's around 2% https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Variable-Displacement-Compressors

That ebay listing does look like most of the rear suspension for your car. But ask the garage to check first before ordering. I'd make sure to use a credit card so have section 75 protection. However be aware the seller is in Germany so there will be VAT, import duties and possible carrier admin charges in addition to the price quoted

From what I can gather its the outer o-ring seal for the half-shaft, also called deflector ring, fits on drive shaft end before inserting splines into front wheel bearing Part no 6Q0407623E Item 10a here Item 3 here

Road or repair debris. There should not be anything there.

Similar post to @Carlston so removed

Check the inner surfaces of the discs the side you cant normally see. You might find its badly and unevenly corroded. Check brake pad condition at the same time. Check the small securing bolt is fitted on the disc to hub and not loose. Tighten wheel nuts to correct torque, iirc 120 Nm. Take for a test drive. Still thinking its a faulty tyre though.

A lot of fabia ii facelift models suffered similar symptoms. Down to failing steering (track) rod inner ball joint rusting up. Problem caused by incorrect grease and water getting in via faulty concertina boot sealing. Check they used the correct metal sealing clips on the rack concertina boots and not just ty-wraps like my dealer did, leading to another failure after a short while. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/561423810-track-rod-skoda-34148.html