xman

Save your Lee type sarcasm for the roadside hotel

Look at the 7 minute mark.

Why not read my instructions, theres not much more to say, what do you want , pictures, a video maybe. If you cant jack a car up and reach under the wheel arch to grab the coil spring in the middle and turn a tyre with the other hand then thats your problem JR

I resent your demeaning tone. JR You've obviously spent too long in the roadside hotel arguing with those miscreants that live there.

Done it many times, its very easy, you don't need to spin the wheel fast, just turn it. It is very obvious when you do a comparison between wheels. It is how mechanics and Mot testers check wheel bearings.

For each wheel in turn, jack up clear of the ground. Grip the spring half way down with one hand, while spinning the wheel with another. You should feel a failing wheel bearing via the hand on the spring which amplifies the vibrations. Compare for all 4 corners. Its usually one of the front wheel bearings that fail. Obviously take appropriate precautions when jacking the car up.

From what little I've read about cars actually fitted with the 2.0 Budack cycle engine, I get the the impression it neither lives up to the early hype about performance or economy. It probably fairs better in the NOx emissions where miller cycle (which Budack is a slight variation of) is known to be better than Otto. I think VAG has stopped claiming anything on the basis they'll get hammered if they get found out and the class actions start again.

No its not ok. As a design engineer you should appreciate that accelerometers are affected by inclination (due to gravity) and rotation so simply can not be applied as you describe in a car without the assistance of a 3 axis gyroscope and some nifty software. Simpler and more accurate to measure speed directly and derive acceleration from that. In any case, if your wheels are locked up or skidding, or you are travelling down a hill, towards a corner, illuminated brake lights convey important information to following traffic even before any significant reduction in your speed occurs.

Sounds classically like failing wheel bearing. For each wheel in turn, jack up clear of the ground. Grip the spring half way down with one hand, while spinning the wheel with another. You should feel a failing wheel bearing via the hand on the spring which amplifies the vibrations. Compare for all 4 corners. Its usually one of the front wheel bearings that fail. Obviously take appropriate precautions when jacking the car up. If you can't find any fault then try swapping tyres with spare or front to back and see if it make any difference. Lastly check for oil leaks from where the gearbox output shafts are. The diff output seals/ bearings might be shot and gearbox/diff running dry.

Long beep when selecting reverse tells you rear parking sensors not working. Resets when you turn off the engine. Usually due to sensor or sensor wiring/connector fault though in your case as you have several issues suddenly appear could be a loom or Canbus issue

I believe the brake lights do come on when ACC applies brakes to reduce speed. At least they do on my Superb.

FFS, 2 buttons (horizontally arranged at that) instead of a dial. Better than touchscreen I suppose, but only just. Found a similar horizontal layout in a Kia a pain in the neck, still have to take my eyes off the road.

When I was in Perth WA over a year ago, over the course of 2 weeks I spotted maybe 3 Skodas mostly Mk3 Superbs out of the 10s of thousand cars I saw on the roads. Last month, over the course of a month I saw exactly 0 Skodas The vast majority of cars there are Asian, ie Toyota, Kia, Hyundai, Isuzu, Mazda and surprisingly, I saw for the 1st time, a few dozen Chinese SUVs with names I've never heard of, some were EVs. A handful of Tesla model 3's. Fuel in Perth is cheap compared to the UK but has very high sulphur content. Strangely the price varies significantly on a daily sometimes hourly basis. Standard petrol is 91 ron. The Kia Sportage I drove had what I would consider as terrible fuel economy at around 9.5l/100km (30 mpg) no matter how gentle I drove. I put that down perhaps to the poor fuel quality.

IIRC the workshop manual I have for EA211 engines did specify a cambelt inspection being recommended after x years / y miles and thereafter at every major service until a max interval is reached. I wonder if that has changed too. I had previously written off any notion of buying VAG with a 1.5 tsi engine when this thread started and Skoda UK were demanding £1100 for what turns out now to be BS. But now, it looks as if some common sense has taken over.

Incorrect, deceleration is simply derived by differentiation applied to the existing speed transducer output. In fact using an accelerometer would not work in a situation where the wheels have lost traction and speed is not being reduced when there is a demand to brake and reduce speed, also if the car is stood and brake applied, ie acceleration is zero.

^^This Yes its a known issue and IIRC there may be an official Tech bulletin issued so in that case the repair should be free. Requires new cam phaser pulley(s) and new cambelt fitting as well as a clean up.

Check the sub frame bolts

IIRC on our Superb 3, you dial up the warning screen and then press the rh wheel control to access, dial the value you want and then press the rh control again to set.

All things are possible provided you have the requisite skill/experience/training and the right resources/tools/equipment for the job. Yes, as with all VAG engines, you do need to remove the left engine mount to remove the timing covers covers as well as the belt and a VAG workshop will support the engine level with a engine support bar fitted over the engine bay. Not watched the full video but lowering the engine is IMO definitely a bad idea and making a lot of extra work and scope for damage. Unless you're a trained mechanic with full workshop facilities and the correct specific tools, workshop manual, I'd say forget it. Pay a specialist £500 and spend the day doing something relaxing or even earning some money.

This is a well known common fault on all EA111 engines of this era. (1.2/1.4tsi) The chain drive design is poor, the chains stretch (the link joints wear so effective pitch/length increases) plus the tensioner is also poor and backs off when the engine rotation momentarily reverses as sometimes when engine stops (piston on compession stroke pushes back) and often will occur if you park on a hill in gear, as the return (tensioned) side pushes the tensioner beyond the internal retaining spring capability and the oil is pushed out. The chain then remains slack hanging down off the bottom sprocket not fully engaged. So, if needed, always park in reserve gear if facing uphill or 1st gear if facing downhill. The rattling takes its toll on the sprockets so they can become worn too. Very common for chain then to skip or even fall off with little or no notice, usually when starting the car. So I'm afraid theres no alternative but to change the chain ( complete kit with tensioner, guides and top/bottom sprockets) I've had 2 changes on a 1.2 tsi engine, similar engine/job, at 55k miles then 120k. The first change cost about £350, the second time around £550. Both done at my Skoda dealer (so includes 2 yr unlimited Skoda warranty) Other people I hear get quoted around £700. Get it done and you will be good for at least another 60k miles. Cheaper than suddendly having a scrapped engine/car. https://www.motorreviewer.com/engine.php?engine_id=6

Tesla found to have deliberately exaggerated range and created a secret team to suppress thousands of driving range complaints https://www.reuters.com/investigates/special-report/tesla-batteries-range/ https://queso.prod.reuters.tv/rest/v2/queso/static/id/572630/mp4

If buying an approved used Skoda v Seat or buying sold with Skoda/Seat extended warranty check the small print very carefully. In the past Seat warranties were limited to £1000 per repair, where Skoda had no such restriction. Toyota/Asian cars are completely different experience, they may have the reputation and perceived reliability but my experience they feel cheaply finished and crude. Generally based on simple old tested and tried designs, which has pluses as well as minuses. Their infotainments are clunky and layout of controls tend to be very random/hap hazard. Last time I looked I thought the Toyota RaV4 were a lot more expensive than Karoq/Ateca/Tiguan 10 yr Toyota warranty is dependent on annual dealer servicing. The big question mark against Skoda/Seat/VW is the DQ200 dry clutch auto box. It doesn't have the best reputation for reliability and if you end up with the lemon it can be extremely expensive to fix £1000 won't cover it. Again check very carefully if the DSG is fully covered by whatever warranty is offered. Make sure the clutch pack is not excluded as a wear and tear item.

Could be final drive outer bearing(s) shot. Check the gearbox final drive output for play. With both front wheels off the ground grab the drive shafts near the inner flanges both sides and twist in opposite directions ie clockwise left/anti clockwise right and vice versa. Check there is no side play obvious ie flanges moving in/out the box.

When you turn off the engine, wait 2 minutes, then without turning it on, check there is still plenty of vacuum in reserve to assist for at least 2 applications of the pedal before it goes hard. You should actually still have enough vacuum assistance for hours after the engine is turned off for about 3 full pedal depressions. If it goes hard more or less immediately after you turn off the engine then you have a vacuum leak. Check that pipe as part of your normal service routine for safety's sake.

Most likely splits in the hard plastic vacuum pipe between servo and inlet manifold. Losing vacuum assistance so brake pedal goes hard, can also affect idling too. Check all pipe ends and joints, usually its obvious, should be tight fitting, if split will often pull off easily. Btw sometimes a mechanic / diyer might tape up a joint as a temporary repair. But its never more than a temporary repair and is never fully effective. Note that good brake vacuum circuit integrity is essential, as you may find the assistance disappears abruptly in an emergency situation (particularly if you pump the pedal) and could be a disaster for the driver.