xman

Needs to go on a lift and they check everything for play by twisting shafts. CVs, Haldex diff (also check for side play and leaks), and the doughnut coupling in front on the propshaft to the Haldex. Should be easy enough to track it down. While you're at it check the suspension bushes.

Thinks there's your answer.....act quickly to prevent expensive clogging of heater matrix. Is it still in warranty?

Does it have "mit silikat" printed on the tank?

Did they replace the cambelt?

Still a bit concerned why they show a diagram that is not what the part actually looks like. The bends are completely different, It doesn't have a clip at the non return valve and the pipe at the manifold end is a differnt length and shape and doesn't show the integrated manifold connector. Looks like a softish rubber bit that will need a jubilee clip - I recall see a photo of this arrangement somewhere. Looks like I remember my mk1 fabia AZQ looked like or maybe the diagram is for a LHD part which is differnt. What they show What it should look like Mine (BZG engine RHD drive) which agrees with Skoda-parts.com

Just to be pedantic, micro hybid (i.e. any ICE with stop/start), MHEV and PHEV will also recover some energy on the way down, and even under braking with engine still in gear connected to the wheels. Maybe not a great deal of energy though that depends on several factors In all cases including EV it depends on whether the gradient is enough to overcome rolling and aerodynamic resistance and braking/regen is required to stop the car picking up speed.

Give Horton Skoda a ring on 01522 508650 always found them friendly and offer good price and free advice over the phone. https://www.theskodashop.co.uk/

There is a simple way to check wheel bearings. Jack up the car, place one hand mid way on the coil spring, and turn the wheel with the other. You will feel a vibration in the spring if the wheel bearing isn't perfect, and nothing if its ok. Compare both sides. Check both front and rear, its easy to convince yourself the noise is from the front when things at the rear are at fault.

It makes no noticeable difference most of the time. On bad roads, the comfort/sport settings do not make things better but rather worse in my opinion 😝

For heaven's sake why pay that much? The parts compatibility selector says it doesn't fit a BZG engine, The drawing is not right, there is no clip on the original and it looks very different at the manifold end. Phone your local TPS centre on 01422 205051 (Halifax) and ask for price and availability should be about £40 https://tps.trade/info/centre-finder/tps-bradford?postcode=&location=53.72702,-1.85754&location_search=1 AAlternativelysimply get the part from your Skoda dealer

Check your V5 document under Engine No. Depends what was filled in by the dealer but mine includes engine code

@MiniNinjaRob Fraid that some Octavia 4 owners are a twitchy lot. I would be if I had been sold a half baked pup with design and software faults galore, some or many of which seem unfixable. Try a different forum like the Superb 3, no sense of humour there either, but some very expensive modding in between the intense polishing.

The white powder is normal, the alloy gets that way after a while. The black pipe seems to be leaking at the connection to the turbo. The end appears to have cracks or is split and leaking. Needs to be wiped clean and checked closely.

No idea, ask the dealer to check.

@langers2k You may be right, however Obdeleven has a one touch app that seems to claim otherwise. I cannot vouch for whether this works or not, the OP should visit the OBDeleven forums for further information.

Sounds like the cambelt timing is out, maybe one tooth, fitted wrong.

Do you know that steering assistance/weight can be changed electronically using a tool like VCDS? No don't know whats involved, but plenty of VCDS, OBD eleven experts on here.

If the wub wub wub noise is most noticeable at slow speed and linked to wheel rotation then that is almost certainly due a tyre that has irregular wear or is distorted/non circular. I had this on one of my Fabias, the Michelin Crossclimates on the front had patches of quite severe abnormal wear on the inner side of the tread so in effect the tyre was changing its contact as it was rotating. Never found the real cause, but it happened at the same time the gearbox diff failed and I suspect the geometry was way out , maybe as a result. Suggest you get a wheel alignment done, some places may even check it for free if no adjustments are required.

Do not exaggerate. Unless you've found some mythical empty for 125 mile motorway, I doubt you can ever average 62.5mph over 2 hours. Or unless you are travelling at illegal speeds. 55mph maybe.

Is that a do or did? I thought that was a mobility car that you then changed for an Alhambra (nice car) and now a Corsa ev?

As a precaution, I would get the car on a lift and thoroughly check for any small oil leaks from the gearbox which I presume is a manual. Check the gearbox oil level, they only take around 2 litres so any leak is significant and low oil level means the gears over heat and an early demise. While its up in the air, check for side play (in/out) at the output shaft flanges, there should be none. If there is, then one or both diff support bearings are failing allowing the diff to move sideways. First audible symptoms are a drone under power or on the overrun, quietening or changing when when you put / lift your foot on/off the throttle, often accompanied with a clunk when go on/off/on throttle which is the diff moving side to side. Left too late, the diff will start to machine the inside of the housing.

And there, I think, is your answer.... it's the tyres (in conjuction with the suspension setup) You chose Michelin E primacy tyres are designed for heavy EVs. They are ECO tyres, ultra low rolling resistance and very hard wearing. And thats the problem, ECO and EV specific tyres have a hard compound and stiff construction in order to acheive ECO status, the trade off being grip and their stiffness transmits through the wheel and suspension, and on basic setups like your car straight into the steering and bodywork. Lack of weight, any suspension isolation and insufficient sound deadening makes things sound worse especially when engines are so quiet nowadays. I find you tend to tune into these noises and because its a drone type noise start to worry, I suffer exactly the same issue with my Superb and its OE P7 tyres. Very noisy. However occasionally I'll drive over a smooth continental type tarmac and the silence is so refreshing. Proving the tyres are the issue. Don't confuse EU Noise ratings with what to expect in the cabin. Those noise ratings are external drive by ratings and have no relation with the noise transmitted through the suspension into the car. On the plus side I've done 22,000 miles and the fronts are on exactly 5mm and rears on 6mm having started life at 7mm, again showing how hard the compound must be.

Is there not a sticker on the slam panel?

The insurance company wouldn't be interested in the slightest, they'd be far more concerned about those tyres you're riding on now. They look ready to fall apart. I'd be surprised if the MOT tester didn't at least put an advisory on your MOT history.