xman

Ahh, now we're getting somewhere. I used self amalgamating tape very tightly wrapped over the splits, it helped a bit, but only a bit, vacuum lost within 5 seconds of switching the engine off, (it should last for hours), with the pipe drawing in external (un- filtered) air, the non return valve was no longer working correctly due to dirt contamination. My independent ordered a new one (comes as a complete assemby) at £42 and fitted it for free took 2 minutes. Car idle is now rock solid steady and as smooth as @sepulchraves bum. 😉

Here are photos of my BZG brake servo vacuum pupe at 100,000 miles. Splits at every joint, brake vacuum leaks ensured that I had no brake assistance as soon as the engine was turned off. Also sporadic idle issues.

Could be the loose plug, they look pretty worn (sparks like nice defined edges on electrodes) and from the overly light colour they appear to be either running very lean, or its ash deposits from oil. The photos are overexposed so difficult to see. If running lean, check the vacuum pipe I mentioned earlier for splits, if you've never changed it, it will almost certainly be split at that mileage, very common. Will cause misfires if running too lean. Can only stress that an OBD reader can pick up misfires before you notice them, if running lean could be other codes pending that will tell. Obd readers start from under £20

Why do you need 3? Buy from Eurocarparts, Carparts4less, GSF cheap and less chance of fakes/warranty issues, probably one local to you Highly recommend you invest iinor borrow an OBD code reader to take the guesswork out of it.

Only need to change the one pack. Around £20 - £30, I bought Bougicord ones a few years ago at £19 ea and the car felt and runs better than it ever did on the OE coils.

IMO, just changing seals will not fix it, they leak for a reason, its likely a bearing has failed causing the diff to move when power is put on/off. You may hear a clunk when you go from power/overrun and vice versa, indicating movement. As gearbox oil lev is no longer checked at a service, you may have been driving some time on low oil and further damage to gears and bearings due to overheating and movement from correct position. Does the gearbox drone a bit when accelerating? You need a good gearbox specialist to look at it. They are going to be much cheaper than Skoda anyway. And they can confirm the dealer findings or otherwise.

More likely the coil is breaking down, the car detected too many misfires and turned off the fuel injector to the offending cylinder fuel and put on the the engine check light. Reset on restart when the misfire was ok. Check the spark plugs and if they don't look too bad I'd recommend you buy a new coil pack as the original parts are known to fail over time, sometimes intermittent misfires but then followed by total failure. Third party replacements are cheap and usually as good if not better than OE. Always recommended to carry a spare as failures are common But first check the error codes in case its something else. Check the state of your brake vacuum hose from Servo to inlet manifold, they split at the ends and at the non return valve in the middle causing running issues as well as reduced brake assistance (hard brake pedal)

Probably spark plug and/or ignition coil pack issue. Error code will usually point to the offending cylinder.

If you constantly use aircon, there will often be a lot of condensate (water) sloshing around in the evaporator housing, it may not have drained if its freezing outside and the drain pipes are frozen. Only solution is to turn fan to max, heater up and wait for it to dry out, usually a few minutes is sufficient. Do not use recirculation as you need the damp air to exit the vehicle, maybe even crack open the windows a bit to help draw it out quicker.

According to skoda-parts.com the D suffic part is for turboless MPI engines and not TSI https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/04c133062d-throttle-valve-32698.html Would a session on ERWIN reveal the correct part? You can phone, email or message Skoda-parts.com and they will check against your VIN https://www.skoda-parts.com/contact.html

My 2009 BZG engined Fabia is perfectly happy at 20mph in 4th, and even can pootle at 25mph in 5th without any signs of distress or juddering though 4th is probably more economical. Obviously more get up and go in the lower gears as max torque is developed at 3100rpm. The fabia is geared at around 20mph per 1000 rpm in 5th. HTP stands for High Torque Performance, referring to the highish torque at low rpm. No need for high revs to pull away from a standstill for instance.

For the camchain EA111 CBZA engine the following information applies The spark plugs are fine tip iridium alloy centre electrode and platinum alloy insert on the ground electrode, pre set at 0.7mm (NGK IZFR6P7 ) or 0.8mm (Bosch FR6HI332) It is difficult to adjust the gap without damage to the electrodes, but there should be no need as they are extremely hard wearing and the gap doesnt really change, but the ground electrode wears away rapidly once the platinum insert/disc becomes detached, at which point they need changing. Same plugs for the CBZA engine as the higher powered CBZB engine (105ps) Apart from the 0.1mm difference, the other difference is the internal series suppressor resistance is 1kohm for the NGK and 9kohm for the Bosch but I have used both makes without issue. As this engine uses a waste spark ignition system, plugs 1 and 3 suffer from the ground electrode wear whereas 2 and 4 don't. Due to the different polarities of the spark voltage You can clearly see the difference in the photos below You will need a spark plug boot puller to remove the connectors like the Sealey VS5293. Don't pull the leads as you will damage them. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-VS5293-Spark-Plug-Lead/dp/B001K4EAHY And a 16mm deep plug socket or T bar plug spanner https://www.lasertools.co.uk/Product/0246/Spark-Plug-Socket-T-Bar-16mm https://www.lasertools.co.uk/products/Cars-&-Vans/Engine/Petrol/Spark-Plug-Removal--Fitting All tools available cheaper on ebay etc

Which engine, EA111 engine (cam chain) or EA211 (cambelt) engine?

Thankfully I do not live in Scotland but some idiot labour polician decided that England giving massive amounts of free money to Scottish governments continually and in perpetuity was a good idea. Free money that I have to fund. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barnett_formula In recent years, Barnett himself has called it a "terrible mistake".

Who is paying for all this infrastructure and subsidised or even free electricity, not to mention the free parking? I have the distinct feeling it's me and I don't even have an EV/PHEV 😠

My post edited to show correct part now

https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/04c133062c-throttle-valve-35342.html

I am rebooting this thread as its gone off into tiresome irrelevance. The OP has 12-13 year old HTP 12v BZG that has done almost 170,000 miles. That is an average of 14-15k per year. Not sure if this is typical of the last 2 years, but if it is then its 2years/30,000 miles since the plugs were changed From personal experience with my BZG, plugs are only good for around 30,000 miles by which time the gap is somewhat larger than optimum. It comes as no surprise that the first symptom of worn plugs are occasional misfires and rough running. So change the plugs! All the chat about instant consumption is irrelevant, it will jump about if the car is not firing on all 3 cylinders cleanly. If you turn your lights off of course the consumption will drop. In the UK, we don't have litre consumption displayed but mpg which goes --- when idling, but I worked out by other means that my idle consumption was around 0.7 litre per hour give or take a bit. So change the plugs, examine the old plugs. You will be able to see if your engine is healthy or starting to burn oil or running rich/weak or one cylinder is markedly different to another. If they are simply worn, i.e if electrodes worn and/or gap is large its important you change them as the elevated ignition voltage that results will often kill the ignition coils next.

No cracking that I can see as yet

Well there's your problem I think. Treat it to some new spark plugs. They cost virtually nothing, about £10 for a set of Bosch plugs here on the UK. At the same time inspect the old set for evidence of an individual cylinder issue, e.g. oil deposits or difference in appearance.

2 or 3 years ago my son bought a stupidly large 55inch LG OLED tv, horrible white frame to match his Imac something or other. Eye scorching over bright over coloured unrealistic pic out of the box. He bought it to watch 4k football from BT sport, and straight away he noticed that when someone kicked a ball any distance, the ball would disappear before magically reappearing at the feet of the recipient. Much playing with (incredibly confusing) menus and advanced settings ensued for a day or two and the best we could manage was the ball briefly popping up mid flight. LG support knew about this issue and guided him through some secret menus to tweak this, that and some other. No difference. Dolby this, dolby that. Watching a match was a farce, and to me utra painful as I find luminous grass and football strip impossible to watch. It went back and he watched the football on his 5k imac screen instead. Recently he bought the latest 48" Sony OLED, much less in your face and from what I've seen quite a nice picture. He did have some similar issues with fast moving sports initially, but managed to find how to turn off all the stupid post processing that supposedly enhances the experience and never does. Sound is good too, much better than most. Me? I have a 2009 42inch Panasonic Plasma that I personally calibrated years ago to near perfection. With a decent source, i.e.not Freeview but good HD feeds from satellite channels the picture is still sublime. Even though its only a 768*1024 panel, you would never guess its not full HD. You can watch at any angle with no change in picture at all, which is a priority as we are using one of the smaller rooms for the TV 100Hz, no fancy postprocessing or gimicks, natural skin colours, grass as it should be etc. And no disappearing football or tennis balls.

I always thought their business model is to let users research and experiment with long coding and then monetise any seems to work tweaks posted on their forums as a one click app.

I don't know what material Pirelli P7 tyres are made out of but both my front tyres are just touching 5mm at 22,000 miles, the rears at 6mm. I measured them at 7mm new. So it could be that they would last 55,000/110,000 miles front/rear to 2mm, not withstanding that tyres usually wear slower when the tread depth is lower. Somewhat surprising and at the same time depressing as these tyres are the noisiest and harshest I've ever experienced, by far. I constantly worry that my differential is shot such is the drone I hear on occasion. Must be extremely hard compound, which would explain others complaining about traction issues. I can only assume that Skoda wanted an eco tyre that pushes down their pretend emissions figures so saving them a bit from the ludicrous EU penalty payments/tax. There is another Superb 3 poster that recorded a ridiculously high mileage on their P7 tyres.

Yours is a 1.2ts EA111, petrol engine with a pump driven by the aux belt. The OP was asking about his 1.6tdi water pump which is driven driven by the cambelt. The diesel water pumps have known issues regarding longevity.

Mk1 and mk2 galaxy shared platform but mk3 no longer shared.