xman

??? In the UK there are no restrictions on what make or model of tyre you fit. Never heard of any insurance company being interested either. So long its MOT legal thats all they care about.

Quiet tyre? https://www.camskill.co.uk/m55b0s11206p167871/Michelin_Tyres_Car_Michelin_Primacy_4_Acoustic_-_235_40_R19_96W_XL_(VOL)_SI_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_A_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_2_Noise%3A_70dB

This seems a common problem here on Briskoda. 😜

Interesting read here https://www.pureforge.com/blog/blog/abrasive-friction-vs-adherent-friction-part-1 https://www.pureforge.com/blog/abrasive-vs-adherent-part-2 I first became aware of this when reseaching (ATE) ceramic pads, these low dust pads acheive this partly by transferring and leaving a thin layer of carbides on the disc surface from the pads, i.e. adherent transfer, which keeps the surfaces nice and shiny. VAG pads have a high metal content, iron and some copper for performance and thermal reasons, however that means they are very absrasive (dusty) and the copper I suspect leads to promoting disc corrosion https://www.nature.com/articles/173994b0 However it is crucial that pads are bedded in correctly to establish the initial protective layer.

Same information is printed in all regional variations of manual, also for Superb iV (1.4tsi) In my mind, the statement of emergency use of up to 0.5 litres only of 504/507 0w-30 implies that 508/509 is not suitable for some engines, and 504/507 0w-30 is the closest to a ”universal oil". Interesting to note the use of API SP spec. thats a new one on me

I believe its the 272/280ps engines. Latest Superb manual now states use the oil specified on the slam panel sticker, if there isn't one then consult a specialist garage or use 504.00/507.00 oil 0w30. This applies to all engine variants (2021/11 onwards) not checked earlier manuals.

At the risk of stirring the usual hornets nest I think you'll find that is pure conjecture by you. Ive seen no hard evidence i.e. a written statement by Skoda (not just from UK customer service who give various confusing statements) or a higher souce as to what all cars are initially filled with, though its reasonable to assume that most (but not all*) now arrive with 508/509. *Some high power 2.0tsi variants need 504/507 and cannot use 508/509 My experience is that my dealer flat out refuses to tell me exactly what oil is used and I've not read many threads where posters know exactly what their dealer uses either or even ask. My 2018 car has a slam panel label showing 504/507 for instance, iirc you argued in a past thread that it probably came with 508.00 however the senior tech at the dealer argued with me that 502.00 is the correct oil for my car, based on ElsaPro servicing sheet printed out by their computer. Skoda UK customer services added to the confusion by email later that 508.00 is the recommended oil for my car.

Are you sure? Or does it say VW508.00/509.00?

Have you considered replacing the front with standard or uprated non DCC shocks? I personally don't think DCC makes a significant or even a noticeable difference most of the time, and mine stay in Normal 90% of the time. Comfort too wafty and crash on bad roads, Sport too harsh and annoying. Wouldn't buy another car with DCC as they do seem to fail often if Briskoda is any indication. Ridiculous price for minimum benefit.

Edit: I posted before the last post was visible so below is not applicable, but still posting in case it helps others.... I would strongly recommend you check it yourself, is it really leaking or just misted? Misted shockers are quite normal and simply a small release of excessively filled oil due to over pressure. Shocks misting are not an MOT failure, and it takes a significant and obvious leak to fail. However some MOT testers take ot upon themselves to overuse "their opinion" knowing the customer will have to pay their employer and in turn get a share of the bonus scheme. Wipe the shocks clean and check after several journeys. Then if happy take to another MOT station, independents are the best, they shouldn't have a vested interest in failing ot particularly as DCC shocks are so expensive. Government MOT guidance A shock absorber must be rejected if negligible damping effect becomes evident at any point during the inspection. DefectCategory (a) A shock absorber: (i) insecurely attached to chassis or axle (ii) missing or likely to become detached Major Dangerous (b) A shock absorber damaged to the extent that it does not function or showing signs of severe leakage Major (c) A shock absorber bush excessively worn Major (d) A shock absorber which has negligible damping effect Major

DQ200 7 speed dry clutch DSG Today I had given a 1.0tsi DSG Fabia courtesy car, usually they give me a 1.0Tsi manual Fabia monte carlo which I find an unpleasant and rough experience. Having driven a slightly juddery 1.5tsi DSG Octavia 3 about 4 years ago I was expecting something similar to that. OK but the ludicrous antics with the handbrake at traffic lights put me off completely. Today's experience almost made me change my mind, very smooth imperceptible changes, manouverable at slow speeds, impressed....that is, until I parked it back at the dealer. Reversed into a space, car pointing up a bit of an incline. After a walkaround I decided I was a little too far back, too close to the vehicle behind. So I got back in, started, into D, the car didn't crawl up the incline as maybe it was too steep, so a gentlest of throttle and the car shot forward. Sharp on the brake. Tried again with the tiniest bit of throttle and left foot on brake ready to moderate. Car shoots forward, and soon as I touch the brake stops dead, brake can't be used to moderate it seems. Maybe it can by some other method, but I can't be bothered to learn. Fortunate that there was nothing in front of me. Give me a torque converter box any day. For now I'll stick to manual.

ZFR5F is a totally wrong and unsuitable plug for a 2013 1.2tsi. In addition to being too short, they are also the wrong heat range. Hopefully the cylinder head threads arent damaged at the bottom end. Whoever fitted them was a fwit. Correct plugs are NGK IZFR6P7 BOSCH FR 6 HI 332 Skoda/VAG 03F 905 600 A They are an iridium alloy fine tip centre electrode with a platinum insert in the ground electrode. Ultra hard wearing plug needed for TSI and the waste spark ignition system which wears the plugs much faster than individual coil packs. Glad you got the car sorted, a good lesson to others not to jump to conclusions about their DSG without eliminating other simpler causes, in your case the duff spark plugs causing juddering which confused the DSG. Well done

It also acts as proof of name and address wrt registered keeper

You need to have had the Traffic Sign Recognition option fitted at the factory. Its not standard on any trim (royalty reasons iirc). Cannot be coded on MY20 onwards either. Not sure if your dealer can upgrade (as they can Bolero to Amundsen on the latest models)

Isnt there a rocker switch on the centre console to lock/unlock all doors? Does that do anything? Or wasn't that fitted on the Mk1?

IMO the 4hr cheap slot will effectively disappear over the next 18 months, maybe sooner. Domestic prices will soon be 30+ pence/kwh starting April and will march continually upward at well above inflation if gov insist on Net zero policy. Free or cheap public charging will also disappear. Its about time the UK recognise the damage heavier cars do to infrastructure, the environment and peoples health. A weight based tax is already used in the Netherlands I believe

Could be tyres, wheel bearings, differential issue, amongst others. Try swapping the wheels front to back to start with and see if it makes any difference A more detailed description of the noise or a sound clip would help. Does it alter when you go round corners?

The problem is the pivot on the lever arm that the handbrake cable operates. It corrodes between the shoe plate it is mounted on and the lever and cant be cleaned or lubricated effectively in situ so will start sticking even after best efforts to free it. Best solution is to replace the shoes as you have found. Note the same issue applies to all models fitted with drum brakes. e.g. fabia, rapid etc Thanks for confirming.

You may be able to check that simply by pushing/pulling the top of the engine to the back front and listen for the clunk.

Put the track rod and wheel back on and and grab the wheel pulling right and left, check for steering play and noises. Spin the wheel by hand forward and backwards several time, check for a clunk when you change direction, (gearbox check) Repeat the above on the other side as often its not evident which side the noise is really coming from. At the same time check the wheel bearings, and springs. Springs usually break at the very top and can give bangs and clunks as they move around and over the cup/bearing at the top. If that fails, I would suggest you get the car up on a lift with someone experienced and who you trust to check everything for play and deterioration. All the suspension, bushes, track rods, arb, links and drive shafts. At the same time check for evidence of gearbox oil leaks. Should take no longer than 10 mins to locate anything loose or wrong. Never a skoda dealer though.

From experience over the years with arb links, I know it doesn't take much play at all for knocks to sound very loud. The forces involved are far greater that you can extert by hand. So it maybe a worn inner joint on the tie rod. Many fabias around 2011 onwards were fitted with faulty tie rods filled with incorrect or inadequate grease in the inner tie rod joints, caused sticky/creaking steering when going slowly lock to lock at static or slow speeds. There is a TSB and lots were changed FOC under warranty. If you simply ignored it or didn't notice, the joint would wear due to the lack of grease, and the one in the video certainly looks abnormally loose. They are not expensive to buy or difficult to replace, but alignment will be needed adding to the cost. I recently found out at great expense on our Octavia, a knock when going from power on to off can also be caused by failing differential support bearings. The allows the diff to move side to side. Check for play in/out of the gearbox at the output flanges. Twist the flanges in opposite directions at the same time, the diff will slide side to side on its helical cut gear if those bearings are shot. In my case the box had been leaking oil very slowly for a long time from the output shaft/diff seals, and with less than 50% left, the gears and bearings overheat, leading to damage and failure. Apparently diff support bearings failing are common in 5 and 6 speed vag manual boxes. They went at 90,000 miles in one of our Fabias 1.2tsi (5 speed) and 150,000 miles in our Octavia 1.2tsi (6 speed). Strongly recommend you check gearbox oil for evidence of a leak and oil level as its never checked at service. Best to get the car up on a 2/4 poster with all the wheels hanging and easier to check everything, leaks and for play with both hands. Find a friendly and good independent to check is my advice.

Why would you even consider this? I may be wrong but from what I've read, MIB2.5 is far better than MIB3 which is designed to monetize you. And it is a pile of shyte with bugs galore that don't appear fixable or are unlikely to be fixed. Not sure but doesn't MIB3 have control functions not present on MIB2, climate controls for instance, so I expect lots of control module and wiring changes. And MIB3 is locked down with new security protocols far more than MIB2, so certain modding will no longer be possible. No longer to update maps easily or for free, your choice..... Others may tell me I'm wrong, so lets hear....

In this case its irrelevant what the cambelt interval is or is not. Man buys 3 yr old car, ex lease, so I presume sold by a dealer/garage with full service history. Warranty has in law to be a minimum of 6 months, I would imagine 12 months is likely on a newish car. Its engine gets trashed 6 months later and 3500 miles. Exact sequence of events yet to be established. Surely this is simply a used car warranty issue. If the seller refuses to resolve it, the owner has rights under the Consumer rights act. Granted it may involve building a case now that 6 months have passed. If it had a fairly normal 12 month warranty, or maybe if was an approved used Skoda they have 24 months then there should be no argument. The owner is not a Skoda technician woth detailed knowledge of cambelts, maintenance or whatever. The onus was on the seller to advise that the cambelt was overdue and he had to change the cambelt immediately. And the description full service history is incorrect, or creative. It is not helpful constantly posting a price list and calling it a mandatory service schedule. It is not. It is simply a marketing flyer. I fear the aggressive tone of the ill considered replies from more than one member) has understandably made the OP think "f it with this forum". No one answered his query, which was what was the experience of others that had suffered the same issue (broken cambelt) We'd be lucky to hear from him again I think.

Coils break down internally , the insulation on the coil winding breaks down due to excessive voltage and/or temperature and they start sparking (aka tracking) internally, reducing the voltage and energy of the spark delivered at the plug at the same time causing further damage internally. Eventually they die completely. All without any physical evidence visible externally. Without examing your plugs, its difficult to judge whether your opinion of "not too bad" is justified. Excessive gaps due to wear of the electrodes is a common precursor to coil failure as a much higher voltage is required to initiate a spark, and this places a greater stress on the coil internal insulation which can lead to them breaking down. Sometimes, and it used to be common with VAG OE, coils are just poor quality and not up to the job.

@J.R. Your humility is impressive. My comment was aimed at a wider audience actually. Hopefully @Easytiger333 will get back and answer my questions. He's only had the car 6 months and 3500 miles, we need to explore warranty and seller responsibilities first before making any case against Skoda UK.