xman

Might be an ABS sensor issue. I think all Skoda's probably have tyre monitoring based on wheel rotation speed difference using the ABS sensors. If one is not behaving or intermittent dropping pulses it could fool the system into thinking that tyre is deflating.

For the technically minded you can replace/edit the hosts file on any Windows or for that matter Linux or Apple system, to block known threats, I use one of the hosts file from https://github.com/StevenBlack/hosts https://www.howtogeek.com/howto/27350/beginner-geek-how-to-edit-your-hosts-file/ One point to note is if you install a very large hosts file like those in Steven Blacks website, when you reboot your computer, it can take a few minutes for your wifi to become active as the OS scan the dns blacklist. Alternatively you can install the ublock origin extension on Firefox or Chrome which will provide a similar level of protection. https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/ublock-origin/cjpalhdlnbpafiamejdnhcphjbkeiagm?hl=en Or do both! Banking apps on modern mobiles are pretty good and offer good security.

Check the tyre depths yourself with a tyre depth gauge or other measuring instrument. My car was serviced at the dealer and they reported 3mm on the front, 2 weeks later the car was in for its MOT at the same place, and the fronts had magically grown to 5mm

I'm sorry to inform you that you did not pass this year's class. 😉 To avoid condensation on the inside of the window then turn off the a/c several minutes before turning off the engine while keeping the fan turned on, to fully dry out the evaporator. This has the added benefit of preventing or at least slowing the growth of fungus and bacteria, which requires a wet moderately warm environment to flourish and nothing better than a wet evaporator when the car is parked up overnight. This is the reason for the smell that often develops in a/c systems.

https://www.kwik-fit.com/blog/why-are-my-tyres-cracking

Check the dipstick and if necessary top up carefully, I recommend in increments of 0.25 litres but no higher than the top of hatched area on the dipstick. Follow the instructions in the user manual. Allow a few minutes time for oil to settle in the sump before rechecking and if necessary topping up a bit more. Some oil level sensors will also detect overfilling and put on the oil level warning light to add to the confusion. Overfilling can potentially lead to CAT damage or the crank thrashing and aerating the oil which in turn can lead to total loss of oil pressure and consequential damage. If the warning light doesn't go out, then check for error codes using an OBD reader.

Highly unlikely that a genuine NGK ignition coil is made in Japan, most likely South Africa or France https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/NGK Bosch parts are often just rebranded items so could even be an NGK manufactured part. Or made anywhere in the world from Germany through most of Europe and yes...China. I returned Bosch discs when the box said made in China https://dslidingdoors.blogspot.com/2020/04/bosch-ignition-coil-made-in-slovenia.html?m=1 Choose a reputable supplier like Opieoils or even Eurocarparts, theres a lot of fake aito stuff out there on ebay and amazon etc.

Check the wiring in the rubber gaitor between the pillars and the doors for broken or damage wires. Also check the fuses.

Have you checked the fuses?

Afaik a broken lever on the sensor does not trigger an error code or message. Fitting LED replacements is illegal in the UK and is an MOT failure, but would you want to anyway, take a look here https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-PKI0zrdntg

Probably not in this case but if the immobiliser doesnt see the transponder in the key then the engine shuts down after a few seconds, but I believe its only 3 or so seconds. Has the key been opened to replace a battery, sometimes the tiny transponder chip can fall out. Try a spare key.

Never mind range anxiety, how about charger anxiety? 😉

Try tanya.co.uk for reasonably priced batteries

If you look underneath the car at the nearside suspension arms both at the front and the rear you should see a small bracket connecting the arm to the level sensors. These can get broken or detatched so the self levelling doesn't work and gets stuck in the down position.

The reason your main beam looks ok is because the halogens come on as well as the Xenon part opening the dip shutter. The Xenons are NOT dimmed when dipped, there is an electromechanically operated shutter that cuts off the top of the Xenon projected beam when on dip and the Halogens are turned off. Either the alignment of the Xenon projector lens is pointing too far down for reasons explained previously regarding the legally required self levelling system - which only applies to the Xenon projector part of the headlamp or more likely reason is simply need new Xenon bulbs, your bulbs having reached end of life and have lost their brightness

On further digging its looking as if the 6V version doesn't have EGR only 12V versions. What @sepulchrave said about valves is a possibility as 6v htp are known for this.

Don't listen to @sepulchrave (at least not yet) These are very simple engines. The usual suspects are spark plugs and coils. Followed by injectors. Did they put some new plugs in (around £10 for the set)? Tracing vacuum lines? Theres only one, brake servo to inlet manifold. Usually split at the ends and air gets drawn so losing brake assistance and weakening fuel air mixture. As the engine rocks forward under power/braking, a split vacuum line can move back off the manifold connector. Not sure what this swapping bits for good ones is about, how do they know they are good? It may have an EGR valve (the AZQ and BME have) , but in my experience it doesn't affect power but would put the check engine light on with an EGR fault code. Did they put a new air filter on? Start with new plugs.

Could be @Ketts headlamp glass is the problem why they look yellow.

Sodium street lighting was common not so long ago. Being monochromatic, it can be shown to have many visual benefits for motorists. Diffraction in rain, mist or fog is not a problem in monochromatic light. Also monochromatic illumination increases perceived contrast apparently. The yellow part of the spectrum is also where the eye is the most sensitive.

How many miles has it done? Does it run well once started, full power, smooth, with reasonable fuel consumption? It needs to be scanned with a diagnostic tool to check for error codes. Might throw up a sensor issue, such as crankshaft or camshaft sensor. Check all wiring and connections. Timing should be checked. A specialist would be able to sort it.

My take is simply Buyer beware. Some online companies guarantee fresh build dates others do not. My impression is that Avon have always been a budget tyre that has the added bonus of ultra fast wear. Cracking like that shown is common across many makes, one reason I gave up on Michelin. Apparently partly down to low useage and stood outside exposed to the elements and UV. Low mileage users who don't move their car often, the oils in the compound don't get exercised and the surfaces dry out and cracking occurs. But that typical example is not a safety issue, simply a cosmetic one, that part is not on contact with road after all. No perfect tyre, all a collection of compromises, this months batch may be different from last months depending who mixed the ingredients. In the past I stuck to Continental Premium Contacts for my Alhambra as no alternatives were available on my size, each set was different, made in Portugal, Spain, Hungary 8mm, 7mm Several years ago I bought a used spare wheel/tyre from ebay for our fabia. Fitted with an old BF Goodrich G grip tyre (49/09) Pressed into use many times over the years, currently fitted on our remaining fabia, its been quite a remarkable tyre, low wear, no sign of the cracking I regularly saw on Michelins, or borderline delamination on every Goodyear Efficient Grip performance when worn. Tyre walls still look like new, no deterioration apparent. Tyre was made in Poland, BF Goodrich is owned by Michelin.

I think its to do with the failure of the silly silicate bag in the header tank, releasing the silicate which is a sand like substance. Eventually making its way into the heater matrix and blocking it, very difficult and expensive to remedy. Search for "mit silikat" and do something NOW.

Skoda recommends to change the water pump at each cambelt change on diesel engines. They often fail before a second cambelt interval can be reached.

Modern fobs use a rolling code, which changes every time the user presses the button, according to a cryptographic sequence which was uniquely set up (seeded) when the key was syncronised and linked to the car. The spare(s) are also set up though the seed and therefore sequence will be different for each key. So the car knows the next codes in the sequences to expect from all valid keys. The car will accept several codes in the sequence after the last one that was validated, just in case the key was out of range. Once accepted the sequence is resynchronised so old codes are no longer valid Replay attacks work by recording the code transmitted by the key when the owner presses the button on their fob. At the same time, the attacker jams the signal near the car preventing the car from receiving it. The owner may even try several times, the attacker recording the codes but blocking them from being received by the car. The attacker is then free to use these still valid codes to unlock or lock the car at their leisure or until the owner successfully uses the fob to open/lock the car, when all previous codes become invalid. Too many unsuccessful button presses will eventually lead to a key needing to be resynchronised using a special procedure. Do not confuse replay attacks with relay attacks which is a different technique to spoof keyless systems, which on the OP's would be needed to start his car, but not open it.

Need to look at the electrical schematic, does the ignition starter switch operate a relay which in turn operates the starter motor? Could be a faulty relay (dry joint?) or even a faulty starter motor.