kenfowler3966

We just use my wife’s Citigo for the very short trips to shops etc. The Yeti doesn’t get used now unless it is a decent trip or I need the space. It can’t soot up if not used for short trips, but is great for going out on trips, on holiday etc. When you consider the cost to change why not just pick up a Citigo instead? We paid £8k last year for a 5 month old preregistration one with 25 miles on the clock. I enjoy driving it as well, handles like a go cart!

They changed how car tax worked. EG wifes last 63reg Fabia was £20, my 14reg Greenline Yeti was £30, and at the time a Ford Mustang was £1150! for each year from new. Now for cars registered after April 2017, such as wifes 68reg citigo, my 2017 Yeti and newer mustang are all £150 per year from year 2. However there is a surcharge in the first year for larger engine/dirty cars, my Yeti was £200 when new? Mustang is well over £1k. So buying secondhand you need a pre april 2017 Greenline or equivalent if going for a Yeti, whereas for the Mustang you need a post april 2017 car where the original owner paid the surcharge, and ongoing is only £150/year. Mind you the equivalent of current Yeti with more powerful engine is I think £185/year so again go post April 2017 for one of thise if you can. However can you even have one of those Tuk's new in UK as they are possibly too dirty to meet the requirements? I suspect you would have to bring in a second hand one and try and register it, but not certain you would be allowed to?

The only risk is if you need to chase Skoda for any paintwork, or corrosion issues. They will not pay up as far as I know unless you have had a Skoda dealer inspection at the required service intervals, and even then only if specifically stated that the inspection has been done?

My arm and leg service seems to be this year, not in year 5! Car is just over 3 years old but I have the MOT extension, so the car will need shortly Major 3 year service MOT Brake fluid change at 3 years Haldex service, possibly should have been earlier, but all working fine so far with drive to rear when needed Gearbox oil change for dsg as 40k soon However all will have to be done even if I was to return at end of lease in December, so I might as well stump up, and buy the car, as next major cost will not be until the cambelt.... As the car was supposed to have done 54k based on previous cars by then, and will now only be about 40k it will be a bargain at the settlement figure to keep it.

Note that the SEL Drive has the same wheels as the L&K, except on the L&K the spokes are infilled in black. There was an option on the SEL Drive to pay extra for diamond cut wheels, but I couldn't see the point as they get the white worm, and made the car look like the SE Drive which had this type as standard, but in a slightly different colour. I don't think there was a wheel upgrade option on the L&K. The L&K had really nothing that I wanted, but was a bargain if you did want the sunroof and park assist as it was only about £500 more than the SEL Drive just before I bought mine. The sunroof and park assist would have added £1600 to the SEL Drive if I had ticked those on the options list. Personally have never missed a sunroof, as that is what air conditioning is for, and I can park pretty well manually with the front and rear sensors fitted as standard. Personally I think the black interior in my car is much better than the dark brown seats of the L&K.

My second Yeti was the Greenline with 16" wheels, so I know they are better, just didn't thinkl it worth the effort to try and get them fitted on my third Yeti which was nearly one of the last built. Too much risk of the order not being fulfilled, as my wife wanted the L&K, but they stopped taking the orders for that the day before we went in to order one. (Lucky escape from the potential leaks and the yucky brown seats though. I do have 16" winter wheels now though, so car is comfortable from Nov to March!!

I was looking at a new Karoq Scout in a showroom recently and that had a memeory drivers seat? Not sure if standard or not. (In York) I have the memory seat in my SE L Drive car which was one of the last Yeti's built, but it was ordered months before with this and a number of other extras. As you say there were a lot of Yeti's built speculatively at the end to fill up production slots, and most of those had no extras, just variations in colour, engine and standard spec level to use up components in hand. (I had planned on getting the L&K, but they stopped taking orders the day before I committed to buy my car, and only the SEL Drive could be ordered; I even had to change colour as the colour choice was reduced at the end as well! Avoided the sunroof issue and brown seats though, so overall am happy this happened) I also had it in my second 2014 Elegance Yeti and it is so much more comfortable than the standard seat I had in my first Yeti Elegance from 2010

My wifes Citigo has black wheels as standard, looks great. I use Black steel winter wheels and they completely transform the look of my all black Yeti. I think I may get my wheels idential shape done like this once I actually own the car after Dec. Aprroximately how much would this cost please as I could get them done whilst the car is on its winter wheels?

When I ordered my car diamond cut wheels were an extra cost option. I picked it initially but then read up about the corrosion issues so went back to standard and spent the money saved on the rear camera instead. So useful it should be standard equipment!

Just out of interest how old is the car?

The car is trying to complete a regeneration, burning off soot in the DPF. If it gets balked too many times it can end up needing a dealer to intervene. Hopefully your mix of driving allows for longer trips at times? Only using a diesel fro short journeys will result in problems. A quick 20 mile blast should allow it to complete and be fine for another 300 miles or soi.

There are owners on here at 250k and still driving their Yeti and planning to keep it. 80k is not that bad and it must have had the ideal diesel usage pattern for future longevity. It is also a Euro 6 car do no issues with the fix applied to earlier cars.

They will always be hollow. They need to be light and a solid bar is not that much stronger in torsion than a tube.

My wife Fabia some years ago was bought with 40k at 3 years old and came as part of the deal with a new cam belt. I risked 8 years with this over 39k miles before I chickened out and replaced it.

If it fails under 5 years old you could potentially get skoda to pay, over 5 years the £4-5k for a new engine is alldown to you.... I read somewhere that the belts are changed at intervals determined such that 99% or so will have lasted to that point. Some might last twice as long, but that is up to you. It is time which destroys them, not use, as with tyres which really need changing at 5 years, even if not worn out due to cracking which develops in the rubber. Brake fluid is another matter, and my local independent used to test it, and change when it was no longer safe to keep for another year or so. Typically 4 to 5 years on a low mileage car such as my wifes.

You cant really get a 4x4 petrol yeti unless you find a rare and historically unreliable 1.8 car. At 5k a year the diesel is not a good idea as the emission components will never get enough use to keep clear. Any car prior to around 2015 will be euro 5, and will have had the emission fix so that would worsen this potential and expensive unreliability, with the extra 2 year warranty on these parts now expired. Whilst i love my 4x4 diesel yeti, it doesnt sound like the correct car for you, as you say you need a 4x4.

Do they really need changing as it is a well known con as rusty disc are only an mot fail if too thin but look like they need changing. They tried to get me to change my rear discs at two years old last year due to corrosion but I declined. They are a bit scored at three years now but the car still brakes perfectly?

My 2017 car has at least 2 spots of zinc inclusions. Changing the Haldex oil is not enough, assuming this is the latest mk5 Haldex it needs to be opened and the mesh screen cleaned when serviced. Many garages don't do this.so it can fail anyway due to oil starvation even if the oils was changed when due. This is not in the service schedule so typically not doe, (As per the earlier Mk4 version with the replaceable filter, which Skoda denied existed and hence did not change, writing off many units after the 3 year guarantee expired. Cambelt is due at 5 years, so it depends whether it is 5 years old yet, and if it was recently, was it done. For rust, all you can do is look underneath and assess for yourself.

If the car had one of the substandard chains and has passed 50K it is doing well. If it was replaced in time, it should have the upgraded chain. If not replaced in time, it will have had a replacement engine to still be on the road? It could still be a good car even on an original chain if you get the dealer to replace as part of the deal?

Because my rear tyres are only half worn and I have just replaced the front ones as one was severely damaged. Car is too young to change the standard alloys and will only become mine if I buy it at Xmas from lease company, so can’t anyway at the moment.

Read the other current thread about a 1.8 failure and replacement!

I use theUK standard 17" in the summer, and winter tyres on 16" in the winter. The ride on the 16" wheels is so much better that I wish this car was on that all year round. (My previous Yeti was the Greenline version which came on 16" as standard) Personally I think the car rides best on 16" wheels, it must be awful on 18"!!

I have had 2 2wd yetis before and currently have a 4wd and have noticed no additional noise from the rear.

My 2014 greenline was suffering there and had to be repaired before it was returned to the lease company at 3 years old. The seal seems to rub through the paint at the bottom of the rear door.

Let alone the insurance implications if the car lurches onto something or someone with an undeclared modification! I don’t see what the issue is. Quite happy to get in press the pedal to start car and then perhaps get out whilst it is warming up to clear the screens of ice.