b1ackb1rd

My 2010 CFHA engine becomes MUCH quieter after an oil change, its at 147k

I'd buy an RCD330 or RCD360 as a replacement

@J.R. @varooom Thanks for replying. The braking works fine but it feels absolutely dead, no feel at the pedal at all and quite difficult to be smooth. Engine revs around to 4k without any issue, but there doesn't feel like there's any step in power. With zero vacuum the engine was very torquey to 1500rpm, then flat.

Now fixed at the Garage's expense, but turbo boost and braking feel very different - does there need to be some calibration? Or should I just disconnect the battery overnight?

The part number for the assembly (you can't just buy the broken bit) is 1K0 612 041 HQ if anyone's interested, a mere £42.20 inc VAT.

@J.R. Master cylinder fixed thanks, traction is MUCH better so I wonder if it's been weeping for a while. It must have been snapped by a tech with a large gut whilst reaching down the back of the engine - annoying as the loss of vacuum causes limp mode at just about every gear change. In the short term I think I'm going to see if a fuel pipe T piece will fit, hopefully I can get Amazon to deliver so I don't have to risk life and limb on the fast roads.

Pipes coming off the vacuum pump

The garage fixing my master cylinder provided a Brucie Bonus today - after 50+ limp mode activations and crossing Rose Hill, Lickey at 20mph - I took a look under the bonnet and found this; PLEASE tell me this a cheap fix?

This is probably the airbag connection under the passenger seat which is an issue across the VAG stable.

It's our 1.6 tdi that's the problem, I have a neighbour who is a VAG technician, he looked up our vrm, he said this is a rare failure and that the records he has access to suggested the slave was outside the bell housing? Either way, I'm not going it myself.

2. BIG puddle of brake fluid under the drivers side I'm guessing master cylinder and/or seals. This is the first car since 1980 that I've had to get recovered; attempting to start the car in gear to limp home was too bloody dangerous. Probably an easy job to fix, but I hate anything to do with brake fluid so it's going to be fixed at the local garage.

Oh great. New clutch 18 months ago now the pedal won't come back up! Any ideas what would cause this?

My Greenline still runs rough during regen, however before the EGR delete it would trigger codes and limp mode even at 2k rpm. If you can't afford VCDS then get Carista, together with VAGDPF you'll get a good idea of what's going on AND Carista can activate a regen on command.

I have been using a (v4) maps CD to run the navigation, with a 64Gb SD card taking care of the music. This weekend I had the misfortune to find myself in a strange city which LOTS of new roads that are not shown on my 2012 navigation disc, I really need to update but for newer maps I will need to use an SD card. My question - to allow me to use a large memory stick (rather than a CD, ipod or mobile phone) would a female USB to 2.5mm jack plug cable enable me to play mp3 files?

@ApertureS Thanks, I think our earlier messages crossed as I've just seen it. By throttle body, do you mean ASV as I have previously removed this and cleaned it of excess diesel residue - should I have performed a reset once it was refitted?

I see what you mean, but that's not quite what I'm rabbiting about ... I don't understand why the pedal position sensor is 15% at tickover, and only 89% with my foot flat on the floor? Google searches show only 'throttle body' type answers, not helpful.

This question may have been answered a 1000 times, if it has, apologies. I have shocking fuel consumption, poor acceleration and at times a fluctuating idle. I've connected to VCDS which shows throttle pedal resting at 15% depression with mats etc moved, and only 89% depression with the pedal flat. Slight pressure on the pedal (only enough to change from ---mpg to 200mpg on the live readout) when coasting shows the pedal at 60% depression. 2012 Yeti Greenline, is my throttle pedal leaving the party early?

I have no problems at all with my 2.0 tdi Yeti, but when I change the fuel filter on the 1.6 tdi it needs manual priming every time, even vcds fails.

I'll admit the filter cap is a mess, but the filter was changed about 5k ago ... and a right pain it was to prime afterwards!

It seems like I have Type A fitted, and all lines fitted correctly. I was hoping this was going to resolve the low speed diesel knocking the car suffers with. (Which is much improved when Forte is added)

I've looked at an old post regarding fuel lines for 1.6tdi CAYC engine and found that at face value mine appear to differ ... Can someone with a (working!) Greenline 2 have butchers under their bonnet and let me know please?

So after a few weeks of calm, my CAYC Yeti is playing up again; Checked the car using live data with Carista today, it showed coolant temp at 78 degrees C, but 90 degrees C showing on the clocks - which sensor do I need to change? Also I noted a big difference between air mass value (actual) 36g/s and air mass value (specified) 156mg/stroke, can anyone comment on the significance of this?

Yes, a proper bodge artist - wheel nuts little more than finger tight too. Even if it was a mistake, why not fix it properly?

My 2012 1.6tdi Greenline went in for a front n/s spring and a CV boot a few weeks ago. Apparently the drop link needed to be cut off, so the bill was £300 with labour and the splendid VAT. Collecting the car I drove 20 feet before I discovered the drop link was loose, and today after an ABS error on VCDS I discovered this. I am not happy ... you'll note the clean marks where the grommet used to sit. When I collected the car he was 'chatty', I'm always suspicious of a chatty mechanic trying to get me 'on side' and now I know why - I've got nowhere complaining, so I'll remove my custom and tell the story to everyone in my office that uses the garage so that'll be a few grand less turnover.

I have the EGR deleted in a map, and blanks fitted behind the EGR mix tube to seal it off properly. (I've just watched programme about Op Tiger that made me realise the fuel temp sensor (reading in Fahrenheit) is way off, I'll change that again)