b1ackb1rd

This takes me back 2 years to the issues I had with my 1.6tdi CAYC. I've added an additive to every tank since then, injector cleaners, Archoil, the VW additive G001790M3 at least twice, I've used DPF spray cleaners about 4 times through the o2 sensor and manipulated the nozzle so lots went into the turbo, and reverse squirted through the cylinder head towards the EGR valve (dunno if it helped, but when you're cycling the ignition every few hundred yards you get desperate!) Actuator is now free, I don't get limp mode, ever. I have a small pile of MAF, MAP, N75 sensors, oh yea and I also cleaned the ASV of muck. The car now regens well every 300 odd miles, it revs to 4500rpm, and since remapping the EGR valve out it goes really well, with real world economy around 45mpg extra rural on A & B roads.

I also found that cleaning the oxidised headlamps made a HUGE difference. I used a packet of specialist wipes, cost around £10 from memory.

I get MUCH worse economy figures than that with my 1.6tdi, do you draught buses and HGV's, or have pedals fitted ?

I would whip out and examine the o2 sensor, mine was utterly blocked and playing hell with the fuelling, mpg is now mid 40's up from low mid 30's.

I'd do a rolling restoration using used parts from Breakers, and change the cambelt to preserve your investment.

Short term relief can be obtained by squirting in DPF cleaner spray through the sensor hole, I've done this a good number of times since the summer, the effect is cumulative in that the first one/two cans make no difference but keep plugging away. It's never solve this issue in the same way as a new DPF, but at £10 a can and 15 mins of your time it's worth a squirt, as they say.

You had the wrong one! My 451 44hp cdi sipped fuel ... and I stupidly sold it for a 1.6tdi Greenline that struggles to hit 40 mpg.

At low revs when pulling away from junctions it sounds like my knees first thing every morning 😂 there is a crackling noise. My old 1.9tdi Touran used to sound like someone rustling a brown paper bag, I suppose it depends on the levels of diesel crud in your intake. I have a spare cleaned intake manifold and ASV assembly to fit when I get chance, I'm hoping that solves the issue.

I have horrible diesel knock with my crappy 1.6tdi

Diesel pre-ignition (knock) ? Try an additive to raise the cetane level as see if the noise disappears.

Could have done with that extra sidewall cushioning when driving thru Brum last night on 205/55/16s.

Whether its the source of your noise or not, this isn't good practice.

That's not a great idea, in VAG circles this is considered a big no-no unless you want to pay out for a new DMF

Door mirror turn signal units are expensive from VAG, in the region of £55 each - after a recent MOT fail for this reason I bought a cheapo pair off eBay for £20 with free postage which work perfectly well. Fitting involves removing the mirror glass to get to the mirror cover clips, the 2 removal screws are then apparent - a ten minute job, max.

I've heard good reports on these gadgets https://tafmet.pl/english/80-egr-valve-simulators

I'd get them to put a new clutch, flywheel and water pump at the same time, the labour savings would pay for a lot of the parts.

A code costs £10 on eBay and usually takes an hour - just provide the serial number. To be honest most of the stereos I've bought have had the code written somewhere on the unit itself - usually underneath (sneaky high security option!)

The later touch screens are 1) expensive and 2) becoming increasingly frail with age. There is an older OEM unit that is very reliable, search for RNS315, or Amundsen+ . I have the bluetooth, DAB version with 48Gb of music on an SD card in both my Yetis, maps are loaded onto the HDD.

@J.R. The 'middle' tow of seats come out a la Yeti in a few seconds on both 5 and 7 seat versions. The final row of seats in the 7 seater fold flat onto the boot floor, the seat back the becomes the slightly raised boot floor - in total you lose 6-8" of boot height. The good new is that the final row of seats can be completely removed in about 15 mins with a socket set. With 2nd and 3rd row removed, it's a van.

@J.R. I bloody loved my Tourans, I have had both 5 and 7 seat versions - the 5 door versions have a spare. I think I used the full 7 seats once in 2 years taking the nipper's mates to a birthday party, at all other times the 2 extra seats were a pain. I used to take them out for our camping trips to get the extra space. Given the Yeti has the frontal area of Birmingham Council House with the expected affect on fuel economy, my remapped 2.0tdi Touran would whistle down the M5 and return mpg figures that a Yeti would never manage. On balance, I'd have a Touran tomorrow in place of my 1.6 Greenline - the wife is in love with her 2.0tdi.

I was always very happy with the planted feel of my Roomie Scout, the other cars at the time were a 2010 Yeti and a 2007 Touran so we were used to solid motors. I think Roomies have Fabia front ends with Golf rear end and this adds a great deal to the secure feel. Mine was remapped, came with all the toys and factory fitted 13 pin tow electrics - the ONLY reason I can remember for the sale being the constant battle in the house to get to the Yeti 2.0tdi keys first.

My 1.9tdi Roomie Scout was the best car I've ever owned, every time I look at my useless 1.6tdi Greenline a mental image of my Roomie pops up, damnit.

There is an opinion 'out there' pn some forums that the adaptation procedure is a once only operation, and that if not done correctly a new module is needed - I'm not convinced myself, I can't see why the 'relearn' option won't work. I understand from a friend who is a VAG tech that once the procedures are done you must leave the car for 20 seconds or so then remove the key and come back in a few minutes.

Did you do the VCDS procedures to adapt and relearn the new differential pressure values before starting the car?

I got one from a breaker on eBay, price was £30 ish from memory.