the_raz

@RJVB New cars are required to handle 10% ethanol in the fuel, so all fuel line parts are already ethanol proof. Actually, ethanol is less corrosive (hard on components) than regular petrol! The difference is in the engine maps, because ethanol requires a different ratio of air/fuel than petrol, and that is why "regular" cars cannot run on only E85. Modern fuel injected cars have a lambda probe that measures the fuel/air ratio based on the exhaust, and adjusts the mixture accordingly. Thanks to this you can mix higher ethanol content in the fuel. The car will notice that more fuel per air is needed, and modify the air/fuel ratio to run properly. Based on the car's ECU, it will increase the fuel ratio more or less until it decides that the required correction is outside the allowed limits and throws an engine error. This still won't damage the car in any way, you just need to fill up with some petrol to get the correction to approved values and continue to run. I recommend getting an OBDII dongle to reset the CEL light when experimenting with E85, since a fuel system error might lead to failed MOT later on if the error is not cleared. Generally any car should be able to handle 30-40% ethanol in the fuel, but some cars much more than that. My previous car (Fabia III 1,2 tsi) gave CEL error when the mix exceeded 40 % ethanol, but the current car (Fabia III 1,0 TSI) can handle almost 60 % ethanol! That is 5,5 gallons of E85 and the rest (~4 gallons) petrol when the tank is more or less empty.

I guess one reason for the dimmer lights is to save the bulbs some. On a Roomster I had ~10 years back, the headlights were dimmed when running in "DRL" mode

All new cars must be able to run on E10 (maximum 10 % ethanol) in the fuel. In Finland this fuel was introduced a couple of years back. The first year the newspapers were full of horror stories of how the corrosive ethanol fuel burned through brake discs etc , but after that things have settled. If you don't need the higher octane and have a car from around 2001 or newer, there are no issues with using 95E10

I have not had any issues with Superskoda. Prices are a lot less than official dealership, and delivery (to Finland) has been quick and accurate. So either official dealer and pay more, or order from Superskoda and pay less.

In the Nordics where the temperature is below +4 for multiple months of the year, this feature feels kind of unnecessary. When you have dug your car out of a pile of snow, you really don't need a notification that the roads might be slippery when you start it up Does anybody know if this warning can be edited/disabled using VCDS?

How did you get them out? I have been looking at them and trying to remove them for a LED upgrade but I have so far failed.

Also in Finland, fuel consumption is measured in l/100KM, so how many liters of fuel to I burn to drive 100 kilometers. The lower value the better (at least for the poor guy who pays for the fuel )

Actually higher than that, closer to E60(0.66*85+0,33*10) at best. I have been running on this mix for several years in 3 different cars, and the service guys have not said anything. Of course I make sure that I don't get the CEL when the car is in for service. Once an MOT guy commented that the exhaust test showed extraordinary low CO2 values, but nothing else I change the oil every ~12000 miles, ie once per year.

This topic does not contain too much information about the original question regarding E85. I have been driving 3 different TSI engines on a higher mix of e85/95E. The 1st generation 1.2 TSI (105 PS) was able to handle upwards of 60 % ethanol in the fuel, the second generation 1.2 TSI (110PS) threw engine check light when the ethanol part was around 40%. The current 1.0 TSI 110 (or 115?) can finely handle around 45 % ethanol without problems, I have not gone higher yet. On this fuel mix, the engine sounds more sporty and the consumption increases somewhat, but I have not noticed any negative effects at all.

I agree with the above comments; go for the TSI if you have the possibility. Actually, In Finland the MPI engines are not even sold, so I don't have any experience with them at all.

Exactly. Thanks!

I have not noticed that. I usually have the fan on automatic any way, so I don't notice when the speed changes.

Using a OBDII-dongle and monitoring the voltage, I noticed that during engine brakeing, the voltage vent up to 14.7, when driving normally it hovers around 12.8-13.2, so clearly the charging increases when the engine is not producing forward motion. This on a Fabia III 2018 1.0 TSI

long-press on the button for toggling between since start and long term. This will reset the counter selected when pressing, but not the other one

The LED tail lights looks kind of cool! Does anybody know if they would be a direct replacement for the pre-FL models?

I think it possible to recode the sensitivity for the DRLs if replaced with LEDs, but I'm not 100% sure. I replaced the reversing lights with very bright LED bulbs and was getting light bulb error which I was able to get rid of by changing the bulb type in VCDS. You might want to look up someone with VCDS near to you and check if this could be a possibility

If anybody is interested in a RaceChip PRO2 tuning box for 1.2 TSI 110, I have one for sale. I am sorry if this is not the right place for something like this, but I was not able to find any other place to post this info.

Then that makes sense. I can fully understand that the warning sound does not go off if the driver's door is not opened. Whatever - they are not supposed to be used while driving, only when leaving the car in poorly lit conditions; at least not where I come from

One point is, when you use the indicator to light the parking lights, only one side lights up (indicator right=right side parking lights on), so this is an extra feature, and not the same as turning the parking lights on from the lights switch. Why would you exit from the passenger door if you were driving the car? (do I really even want to know that )

I bought it two years ago, so it is the one called RaceChip Pro2. Today, the equivalent version is called RS

Hi! For Power I can recommend the RaceChip plugin chip. It really does wonders for the usable torque, and makes the car really easy to drive. Installation/removal takes under 5 minutes, and once you remove the chip, the car is back to stock.

I still think this is too cold, so I used some foam plastic to cover the bottom right half of the front air intake. To my understanding, that is where the oil cooler sits. A short test run shown a bit higher oil temps (over 90C, 194F) which looks better to me. Besides, the radiator looks *very* vulnerable, since the lower grill is actually only one horizontal plastic bar. So this foam plastic will increase the radiator protection as well. On my previous car (Fabia III HB 1.2 110 TSI) I had both sides covered, and added extra heat/noise insulation to the hood, and the oil temp did not go beyond 106C (223F) even on long motorway runs in the middle of the summer, and warmed up quickly also on shorter runs.

Hi! I have just done around 1000 km in our new Fabia Combi 1.0 TSI DSG. On a normal a-road run for over 20 minutes yesterday i noticed that the oil temp did never exceed 93 C (199 F), and spent most of the time between 80-87 C (180-189 F). Ambient temperature was around 6 C (43 F). Is this normal oil temp for this engine? And is it normal for an engine to run this cold? I would have expected the oil temp to be at least 96 C (205F) or even higher.

The one mod I did was paint the brake calipers bright yellow to match the body color of the car. I think that did surprisingly much to the looks of the car. Other than that - black tint on rear side windows and windows - replace inside lights with LED

I totally agree with teraja, even though I mostly use Waze...