varooom

It's now No.1 suspect 😄

From what I can read in the wheel technical documents, you are only approved to fit the chains onto 16" or 17" wheels, and the chain cannot be bigger than 15mm.

It might be an idea if you can find someone close to you on the VCDS list that can read your car. Either your stalk has given up the ghost, or the wire signal that tells the headlight to open the shutter has broken. If it's both sides at the same time, odds are it will be the stalk I would guess.

I guess you won't be going back there in a hurry.

There is no update for this.

If it came from a breakers yard, odds are you should be fine, unless car was stolen/crashed. With paper trail, you and garage should be ok. Anyone with the capacity to do what you want shouldn't need directions, best hand over keys/radio and let them do their job 🤝

That oil ash is 57.60g out of 80g iirc, however, that might be higher/lower as it cannot be measured, only estimated. At your current soot measured, it will be definitely running regeneration, and if it cannot get to under 4.5g (roughly) the regeneration cycle's will never end. At above 22g, the car will most definitely be putting itself into regen mode every journey. You need a tool that can perform a static regen and monitor exhaust temperature and soot values during the process, like VCDS can.

I think there is a warning myself, but it depends on how you pay attention to your car, I changed my AGM at just over 7 years of use as a prevention before this Winter. The early signs that I think people miss is either Stop/Start doesn't work, or like me it was, but the car didn't switch off for very long before it turned back on again. The new battery once fitted allowed the stop/start to turn off for a much longer period.

The reason behind CP (Component Protection) is to secure the item against theft, and this is probably why the main dealers won't touch the part. An independant garage will have ability if they have passed security checks be able to use the same software as a dealer and be more willing to try. There is Service42 for coding database, and this has a VIN list and all the coding for all modules for each VIN stored, this is able to be updated via SVM coding so if someone flashes a module and the coding needs changing, it can both code the new module with different new values, and then update the remote Service42 database for next time a comparison is made. The next major one, and important for your situation is the FAZIT database, this holds VIN's of stolen cars and then marks all modules for that VIN as stolen. This is checked before any coding/changes to modules can be made, fail this and no CP removal or new coding. The garage that performed the task, if they do this too many times will be blocked forever, which is another reason main dealers will often not do this. Bottom line, if the part passes through the FAZIT database without a hit, then it can then have CP removed/unlocked to allow it to adopt the new VIN and coding for the radio and all your car modules be adjusted.

Sorry 56 or 5F are some of the common locations, with VCDS and time... you could code out a lot of the features of the car. But you MUST really have stored an original full scan of the car somewhere safe, so the coding could be restored. Choice two is to ignore the errors in the VCDS scan log, it's just the gateway pinging the radio to see if it responds.

Ideally don't take photos of logs, plain text is clearer to read. If you removed the factory radio for aftermarket, then the gateway is still going to try and communicate with the old radio. You need to tell the gateway that 5F radio doesn't exist, and see if the fault clears and everything functions correctly.

Take some battery dimension measurements, then do the lookup on Tanya with your reg. Then you should be sure that the replacment will fit, the tray at the bottom should be adjustable if you went for a larger battery. Good luck on getting this sorted, shame that Skoda dealers let you down so poorly.

Off top of head, yes to 0490 version. Will PM a link over.

I was then posting such a thing 😄 Your most likely suspect for the poor fuel economy will be the near constant DPF regenerations, when you first got the car and done the 200 mile trip, it should have in theory been able to passively clear the soot, or put itself into an active regen mode to inject more fuel to burn off the accumulation of soot particles. After an hour of trying to clear the DPF, or if the soot will not clear in that time while driving at motorway speeds, then it will put on the exhaust light, the next stage is exhaust light with limp mode. Now in Km, you usually check oil ash at 230k Km, then every 30k thereafter as a rule of thumb. This is not a measured value, but one that the ECU calculates, however if a car is burning more oil than average, then the 'real' value will be beyond what is claimed (by how much, you can only guess) as this value increases, the efficiency of the DPF goes out of the window, as it clogs the exhaust. This creates more back pressure, making the car work harder = more fuel. The next thing that occurs is the soot from unburnt fuel, this is what the DPF can actually burn off, but only if it is working correctly. I would recommend you try to locate someone in your area that you can plug in your car and read out the following value in the engine ECU Oil Ash Soot measured Soot calculated You could in theory, if the person is happy to help, do what's called a 'static regeneration' on the DPF Kinda noisy, so would recommend that you drive to a car park for example or layby where you can perform this process, make sure you have plenty of fuel in the car While you have VCDS, you can check in the gateway of the car, and make sure the battery is adapted. Most important are battery type: AGM / EFB / Wet *names in coding vary from the values And the Ah rating of the new fitted battery, then last is to increase the serial number by 1 to make the car know it's a fresh battery.

Here you go, your information is correct

Yup! I didn't want to apply all the technical terms 😄 Feel free to post the link to the battery you find on the Tanya site, of course follow their advice about checking measurements.

https://www.tayna.co.uk/ If you slap your reg into there, you can check what they offer for your car. The OEM battery will most likely be Varta as seen here... The dash will light up like an Xmas tree, but usually full left lock/right lock will train away the usual suspect. If the Ah rating changes for the battery, then you will ideally need to adapt the battery with VCDS (forum has a list) Then once you have adapted and cleared the faults, you can put it on a nice long charge cycle.

Post back when you can find out, also does your car have stop/start? If you do, the you should make sure to connect your negative charger clamp to the correct earth point for charging is all, not direct to battery terminal as it cannot "read" the input.

This looks like the code, but nice if you can confirm.

Yup that battery is dead as a doornail. So much for the PDI, clearly they didn't care one bit when you parted with big money. Do you have a picture of the battery that's fitted so we can suggest you a nice replacement?

You have PM for 0480 Thanks @john999boyfor the tidy up

The OEM number should be 565 955 425 13" or around 330mm give or take https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/565955425 https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/aero-wiper-blade-br-rear-window/mpn/565955425

A Skoda SD Card will have logo slapped on it, they have a specific ID that the Amundsen will read, and only load the map data if this code is present.

I mean it's best to NOT format the card, so just delete the contents on it first. If you was to format the card, it could change file formats and cluster sizes. So don't do that 🙂

Have you posted your software train value? The maps you can download yourself usually, but they take a few hours to load in the background, no button to make it just happen.