varooom

You can update to 0490 version, can send PM in a few minutes.

I still have no idea of what software update applies to you. Can you try again with radio on, and hold the Setup button for 10 seconds, don't release button early.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/508091-skoda-belero-update/ People post all over the forum for software updates, but that value of MO13_EU_SKMQB_P1560P SW 0156 Is example of a software train value.

This is the structure I see, and should be on SD Card Update depends on amount of changes, as you are on 0137 you may find it's quick. Most updates take 20-40 minutes as depends on SD Card speed.

It's not supposed to forget each time, but I don't have your radio technology. Find out your software train and I can tell you if update exists. Dealers cannot always be bothered to lookup the TPI documents (fault list) Technical Product Information.

It's this menu, so you can see the update button at the top

Most people patch the unit to activate features you have to pay for, for free. Android Auto Apple carplay for example. Google is your friend, YouTube etc on how to do.

Whenever an SD Card or USB is ejected, the music will be back to the beginning, but could be a software bug. This could be a firmware issue (welcome to post that so I can check)

That F Drive looks perfect, in root there is metainfo2.txt (or some name like that) And is FAT32/exFAT format? In car, you are in engineering menu, where you see existing software train value?

Can you take a picture of the contents of your SD Card? Normal is single file in root, and then about 30 or so folders.

Yeah sadly you cannot load from SKG11 to SKG13 for different hardware.

That's the latest version already loaded.

Nearly always same process. Holding down Menu/Setup key for about 10 seconds to enter engineering menu where you can find Software Train information, and hopefully an update button.

Yes it's fairly simple swapping of values.

If you replaced AGM with AGM, then nope. If you swapped from EFB to AGM then ideally yes. Adapting the battery allows the car to know capacity, rather than having to learn new charging habits.

Press and hold down Menu button to enter Engineering menu on the radio itself. There you need to find Software Train information and post that.

You can update to 0138 version if you wish. And you can dust car while it loads, especially below the heater and fan speed knobs for the air temperature sensor 😁

The factory fit AGM is 68Ah 760CCA, that one is bigger so would need a larger outer heat shield material. That AGM you listed should be same dimensions as you have, and should still work.

Mine a bigger 096 AGM Varta was £125 delivered, so that's not a bad price. Halfords will take in your old battery if you are not keeping it for another purpose for free.

So you have EFB type, and if you look again at the Tanya EFB list above, there's 3x choices that match the 640Ah capacity. Exide, Varta and Bosch. Varta & Bosch are made in same factory, and often Varta is the VAG OEM choice fitted. Your choice as it's your money as to what you buy. Now you just need someone to help you swap, clear codes and adapt new battery to the car. p.s. You could also upgrade to the AGM type also, they are tougher than the EFB (optional)

You have to do it to music, otherwise neighbours might have you sectioned under the mental health act. Given you didn't get a bulb failed warning, odds are it was cornering fog lights, but I didn't want to insult your intelligence by saying you didn't know if you had that function. Static fog lights take a few seconds to check, and cornering a little extra as you need to move steering wheel.

See if you can get a picture of the battery so it can be confirmed which you have.

You could clean or remove the DPF, but not actually going to be fixing the cause of the issues. Ideally you need both things doing, sort the engine and clean DPF. But it's your car and your money, cleaning just the DPF will be a short term solution, as the oil ash will quickly build up and regens will be often.

The oil ash that your car thinks it has, is from the engine oil, hence why low oil ash oil was created for these engines. You said your car drinks lots of oil, so it has to be exiting somewhere, it's hitting the exhaust and choking it. That calculated value of 62g (77%) is just an estimation from time/distance the ECU calculated (not measured) you may find that your actual physical amount is 124g (154%) Not saying this is accurate, as I cannot see either, but odds are high that it is clogged up.