varooom

You can buy new grommets. Shouldn't be expensive at all.

I know you are not in UK, but your main importer might have a webchat like Skoda UK have, and they are happy to supply your PR Codes. Main dealers are also seemingly happy here to provide a print out of them also. So perhaps you can try your Country importer or local dealer to assist you?

I don't know that tool very well, but Engine is the location and you need to read the Measured Value Blocks (MVB's as they are often reffered to)

@cardy The mileage of the car will be useful to know. VAG say that the oil ash residue left over by the soot being burnt off should be checked at around 230,000 km, then every 30,000 km after (not accurate conversion, but at around 140,000 miles and every 20,000 miles thereafter - yes I am being loose with the conversion) Driving on a motorway will give you some passive regeneration, where you slowly burn off the soot without any extra active input from the engine ECU, but as the car ages, this becomes less effective it seems, and the regens increase (active) You are right that faults in other parts like the EGR and other things can block active regens or cause issues. You should try to get some values out of the car with diagnostic tool like VCDS that can read Soot measured/calulated and Oil Ash contents, also being in Yorkshire I could assist, or you find someone closer for this.

6.9mpg seems high consumption, but I wouldn't trust values of what the display tells you. Brim to brim is always the most reliable method of course. Best to ignore that for a moment to get those values read out if you can. By all means it's important also, but lower down IMHO.

Odds are that it is trying to do active regens. When I picked up my Octavia 1.6tdi a few months ago, it was trying to regen immediately. You need to measure soot calculated and measured, and oil ash content.

I dare say me or @pab567would have the firmware you could flash yourself (if buttons respond enough for touch) It's possibly still a screen issue, needing to be swapped out. If you do get the car back (as £250 to update that software is a joke) then you can get information needed by pressing and holding down Menu button for about 10 seconds.

Sorry to hear you wasted a day trying to fix the issue. You really need to get a diagnostic system plugged in like VCDS to measure 2 important values. One is the amount of measured/calculated soot content, above 30g and the car will block active regens. The other is the oil ash content value that is left over by the soot after it's burnt off. So is there anyone near you with VCDS or similar that can read these values out? If the values are ok, then you could use the software to do a static active regeneration and read the values of the soot whilst you are with the car. What is the mileage on your car now? @MicMacis right in saying that soot maybe too high for regens, so specialist cleaning might help.

I know, it's in your first post that you put in 4l and it was on/over the full mark. More to answer your question, that you was asking, you don't have to put in x.y litres, stop at 0.5l less or there abouts everytime. Fire up engine, stop, let it settle and check dipstick etc. Thanks, quite aware of the list... Point was, never seen a CAY engine code, always 4 characters like the examples you posted. Suspect OP's V5 is a little off sadly.

Circling back to your original question quickly, the usual amount of oil is 4.3l with filter change, but you're always best to stop short and add some after turning engine over. Measure and then top up if needed, so you don't have to put in exactly 4.3l. Extracting the 5l was interesting of course, all I can suggest is to monitor it every 2 week's perhaps and of the oil is increasing, then if it's gaining liquid (likely diesel, as water would make it like mayo) you need to investigate cause. Did you have any diagnostic equipment for the car (sorry if you mentioned, didn't see?)

Your VIN would be able to be decoded to tell you what you have, or a diagnostic tool that shows HW part number. I cannot tell you from values which you have.

Last year you was asking about a diagnostic device that was capable of doing forced DPF regens. What's the full story about that, the need for it and did you buy something in the end? History with a car is very valuable to get overall picture of how it's behaving. Lots of failed regens and short journeys will clog the DPF and can cause excess diesel in the oil.

Your hardware is still same H56. The part number is misleading, as it's more a software update indicator. So it's normal that this value changes sometimes.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/505743-oil-level-is-this-possible/ There's a fair few threads similar to the above on the forum. iirc CAYC engines like to eat injectors, leaking etc. Not sure I have heard of CAY engine code, but could look.

Your V5 will have it printed, or equivalent documents if not in UK.

Two choices Overfilled previously Or the car is leaking diesel fuel into the oil Can you supply engine code, not a CAYC is it?

It's erWin Skoda You can pay around 7 Euro for 1hr and access repair manuals and wiring diagrams for you motor (grab the lot!)

From what I can see in wiring diagrams, it seems to be the "18" relay, also known as R2 Can you get your engine code from car registration documents?

I was curious to see if the part mentioned and picture has had replacements, so I looked on the parts catalog as was surprised to see that in theory this was never fitted to Skoda's That part number seen for your crash sensor was fitted to several VW models, and a few SEAT's. I suspect dear old VAG raided the parts bin to build these cars back in the day. The sensors should be colour coded, and I would stick with the part number printed on your existing (and colour) FYI only: The part did change from 6Q0 909 606 to 6Q0 909 606 K on 01/02/2007 For now please follow @Breezy_Pete advice on using the same part number to be sure.

https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ Input your VIN here to see if they have maps for your region.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/449857-amundsen-blue-bar-appearing-across-screen/ As @pab567 has said you can switch to 2D view, and the Horizon will go away. You can also try to adjust the zoom factor to see of the band dissapears in 3D mode. EDIT: Did you recently update your maps, seems that the newer database has this effect when in 3D.

Do you have the TSB / TPI number? I can look at the files I have and see if it's in my collection.

There's an update to 0253, check back in about one hour for a link.

That's a pain, I kept an old USB writer for good reason. Shame you perhaps don't want a road trip (as I have battery support that's needed)

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/n70/ You have an EFB battery 6R0 915 105 B that is eventually replaced by part number 000 915 105 FC https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/000915105fc EDIT: You will need to adapt the gateway of the car to let it know the new capacity of say 70Ah and just increase the serial number by 1. EDIT 2: An image for the new part number, zoom and rotate for Varta branding Just above the no bin option = Varta