varooom

Change now is lost mileage, it'll be reset to max 30,000km or such. Keep on driving!

Since you asked so nicely of course. Link in 5 minutes or less to you.

Glad you made some progress, getting the scan and sending this up the food chain is what you want. There will be tracking for everything (in theory) so someone made the order to ship to Skoda UK and of course onto you eventually. Hopefully Germany/Factory will be able to issue any coding and hardware changes necessary for this task. It's a nice specification and makes you happy, so hopefully yours for next few years. Subscribed with popcorn to hand.

Welcome, I am sure some good Fabia knowledge will be available to you when needed.

Thanks again @roottoot I guessed you would post your usual good information. It seems most likely to have been swapped to fixed service for oil change at some point at 15,000km / 1 year. When you do get your PR Codes, look for QI6 as mentioned, it will be the longlife servicing. This has happened to a lot of Briskodians, getting swapped to a fixed service 😤

Dealer can normally supply you with the PR Codes. Daft question is you car telling you to change the oil now, or in xxxx miles? They should give you warnings each time you start up to service and you can probably get information from dash or infotainment screen sometimes.

Glad they was able to supply your PR Codes to you. As for the wheel choices, odds are he is not sure really (or covering himself) The car when configured may have been 17" as standard, with optional 18" but even if it came with 18" as standard for your model, those cars on 17" are still on the same frame and suspension setups more than likely. I am sure someone with more experience or time will be able to verify the different offset values and report back that it will be ok. Best of luck with your journey!

If you was on flexible service PR Code QI6, then maybe they swapped you to fixed without asking (happens a lot it seems) Either that or the person at the controls reset the service to wrong values? You should be able to get a printout of your PR Codes, and if lucky your full car service history. Also check any receipts you may have had since last time, see what they put on the paperwork.

If you are going to DIY this yourself, you want to make sure you follow what @J.R. said about flushing the system. You will need several litres of distilled water for this task as well. I think you can get away with draining, and flushing with standard tap water from a hosepipe (I might need correcting, but I am sure I have seen this in a VAG repair manual) Flush it all through with lots of water. You might need to flush it fully several times to be safe as you can be at this stage. Then you will need to add your pre-mixed coolant made with distilled water and do all the bleeding.

Here is your VIN decoded (handy to know what was fitted) TMBKF73T5B9------.pdf And turns out my guesstimate was correct on the part number Either order up this part, or maybe send the loom over to @Breezy_Pete to see if he can fix your old one?

Service intervals up from MY 2017 to MY 2020 These have the correct time and distance in Km values Do you think someone reset the inspection and not the oil service last time? If not it came up with an inspection at 37.5k miles and you did an oil change?

Usually yes Usually yes The cars made up to 27.09.2009 only had 3T1 looms After this date then you have exactly as you say 3T1 LHD 3T2 RHD. The image above was because that's the closest we have to you loom label you pictured. Hopefully tomorrow I can get details from VIN search as to what was fitted from factory (we can perhaps assume the label is incorrect at this point)

For reference, this should be what you can base your searches upon (needs VIN verification to be 100%) Rather expensive (extra price will be because of "sound system") Hold off ordering, as maybe better to repair naff wires unless your plugs are crusty? And of course need to verify this is part number needed.

Well no wonder why you are having trouble, that loom doesn't officially exist! Only 3T1 does, so maybe a typo on the label printing (easy with human error) I will try to take your VIN to check (takes time)

Can you confirm if that is 3T2 971 120CC or 3T1 971 120CC?

@2thin2swim I was rather distracted with a phone call, the part that most likely fits (and might still be on the loom you removed) 3T2 971 120 CE for cars with 8 speakers, no KESSY and no upgraded speakers Need the label off your old, or VIN to make sure. Dealer price is £171.70 inc VAT But maybe with the old loom off and a wiring diagram you might be able to solder up and fix the loom?

If you supply a VIN, then this could allow the tracing of what loom to buy. Or as Pete has just mentioned, it should be on a sticker like seen below.

Best of luck with that, there is also a list of VCDS/VCP members who might help you get a scan and some live data (invaluable!) Would be idea to be able to read the Soot values of the DPF (too much and you will need a brand new one or have it cleaned)

The potential to become unstuck might have been as your 2010 which should be MY11, has 2 VIN ranges that affects the cable supplied (1U-B-000 001 or 1Z-B-000 001) Get a quote from a main dealer, from what I see the retail price is £106 inc VAT for the door loom. And the odds are you can get it cheaper than this. The only way to know is to supply a VIN and get it decoded.

Sorry was outside looking at my own car. Engine code is DDYA, a 1.5TDI with as you know just DPF and EGR system, no AdBlue as you have mentioned. What tool was used for the diagnostic? Just wondering if it is reading fault code wrong and spitting out a false message about NOx readings.

The car will have an engine code like CFGB in UK it's on your V5 document.

You might want to post some more car details, do you have an engine code you can provide? What distance has the car driven now?

He is meaning you said to push back piston before removing pads He is saying most remove pads before pushing back piston.

@Snowr0 I wonder if the battery charger sensor to tell the car what Voltage is in the battery is duff or dying? The part connected to your battery terminal to tell the Alternator to charge. You started with message about a low 12V main battery, reading 12.65V on your BT meter. How is the car reading a different Voltage from what your meter is reading? You did mention test's have been done on battery and all report healthy for its age.

Oh the absolute joy of that then 🤕