varooom

I don't even know what software version you have loaded... didn't see anything I recognise. Update if you wish!

Wait a few moments, it's probably trying to be helpful and "merge" your posts into one (therefore exceeding the limit) You should be able to repost a fresh post in a few minutes without the merge effect.

Yes, one moment

Thanks @BoxerBoy I never knew they changed that HID/LED rule. for your post. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/special-notice-01-21-headlamp-conversions/mot-special-notice-01-21-headlamp-conversions

I did mine before fitting, it was more convenient. But, the ideal way is on the car, with positive direct to battery terminal, and negative has to go to the designated spot on the car body (mine was just above the neg terminal, user manual, or take a pic) Inside the home, it took over 12hrs, so that's why I chose that over doing it on the car. Most top ups afterwards are about 3-5hrs roughly on car. I do this once per month roughly to keep it in good shape. 11.7V = 0% SOC (State of charge) Every 0.1V added to the 11.7 =+10% SOC 12.7V = 100% SOC I leave my car for a whole week before it get's a run, and it sits at 12.3V, so it's 60% which drops from a roughly normal 80% SOC (12.5V)

Yes

Nothing I can think of, but I can only talk about my own experience here. Disconnect negative Disconnect positive Undo clamp bolt holding battery down, and lift away. Do the process in reverse for the new one. If the Ah rating is very close from old to new, then don't trouble yourself to adapt the battery (unless you have access to VCDS or similar) so within +/- 2Ah I would say is ok. Only issues come from upsetting the car, so the dash will light up like xmas tree, so usually a full turn of wheel lock left/right cures that. Reset TPMS if fitted, and one-touch windows will need recalibration of the end stops. Ideally take the car for a nice run if you can to give the battery a nice start in life, then just drive normally, if you have a charger, then use that on it inside the car, and make sure to connect negative charge clamp onto correct Earth point, not direct to battery terminal.

Swap job, if you are keeping the same technology. EFB -> EFB AGM -> AGM EFB -> AGM = No! You will have to adapt the battery and change the technology type. Radio code is obsolete, it's now protected by VIN being encoded into it, as long as the car's VIN = same, nothing to worry about.

I did make this before to show how to read wiring diagrams, but it was for rear parking sensors. If your tool can actually bring up live values, you can confirm by looking at live data, and have someone/you walk around the car, you should also be able to feel the sensor pulsing under your finger. It was a rotten loom cable, so please don't waste money buying a sensor before you inspect the loom, mine was green where the wires split off down to the sensor.

An 027 battery = 242mm length An 096 battery = 278mm length (so 36mm difference / 3.6cm) Should be fine to make that small gap AFAIK

These 2 SSP's might help give you some background information. https://procarmanuals.com/pdf-online-vag-ssp-426-start-stop-system-2009/ https://procarmanuals.com/pdf-online-vag-ssp-504-vehicle-batteries/ If you was to do the upgrade, I would put in an AGM myself, as they are tough as old boots. Anyhow, take a read and if you still have more questions fire away, I will answer or someone else of course. Although you have said this before, the line still makes me smile every time 😄

All good, the document is for Superb Mk3 100%, though at the time of printing the SSP, all of the new engine/gearbox combinations were not all added. Look at top left corner of image for full title of file 😉

You're welcome, I suspect the part is shared out amongst the VAG group, as the part listed above is classed as v2xx (can't recall exact designation) V68 comes back as another part number for your car, but most likely = same as above, just different code. Normal behaviour for the VAG parts "bin" as I call the sharing process.

It was put on 1.6TDI SSP106 Skoda Superb III

DQ381/0GC is the most likely candidate. https://procarmanuals.com/pdf-online-vag-ssp-556-the-development-goal-for-the-7-speed-dual-clutch-gearbox-0gc/

Your image rotated 6R1 907 511 - Check this looks right, and matches the writing on yours

Looks like 6R1 907 511, I will check that and post back (look at your 2nd image, rotate it so you can read)

There are 18 choices in the parts catalog, so really are best getting a quote from a dealer (hopefully they give you the part number!)

The cloth is made from heat resistant fabric, and is definitely needed for an AGM swap. If you do fit the Exide bigger battery, you will need to get a new heat cover, it needs adapting to car (cost if you don't have tools) and might not be the best fit for your driving pattern (I cannot say it will be an issue to swap, but you may not "exercise" the battery enough to keep it in good health) Given the extra steps involved, you might be better with a nice Varta EFB 027 size, that will drop in without the extra headache/potential issues.

Although you may have all got yours fixed now (hopefully) here is the answer for anyone else that finds this thread.

Factory is 59Ah, done well to get 7+ years out of it, the simplist thing you can do it drop in a 60Ah EFB Varta (or similar) It's classed as an 027 size. The only real upgrade path is to fit an 096 size battery (need to check) of 70Ah capacity with AGM technology, but that involves changing the heat cloth if sits in to a larger one. Given the above information, you would definitly need to have it adapted in for sure. If you go with the 60Ah EFB, you can just drop in and go. I can provide more information, for sure you will need a new battery heat cloth in bigger size at the least.

So they updated the OCU firmware only. The radio/infotainment firmware is separate, but sometimes needs an update so the system is in balance. You can see what firmware is in radio by pressing and holding you Menu/Setup button down for about 10 seconds, and having a "sniff" around in the menu's carefully, send images in here if you can please. Anyhow, more a check at this stage of what's in there.

Let's start with an image of what you have please, that would be most helpful if you can.

@Theo5 Hopefully you got your workshop manuals and wiring diagrams whilst there?

At 210,000km the car should have the "ash" content measured, and checked ever 30,0000km afterwards. This is probably why your car is asking to do frequent regeneration cycles. How many km has your car driven?