varooom

I think you should try and hold down the Menu or Setup button for about ten seconds to enter the engineering menu and find Software Train

I can send you a link and some simple instructions. If the car is in warranty, you should complain and they should do the update for you, if you choose to do it yourself then I highly doubt this would break anything. You will probably have a small 'fault' in the diagnostic scan, as the car needs an online connection for the mothership to register the update and feedback to the car a new checksum confirmation. This doesn't stop the radio, it's just a stored fault, and you can clear with VCDS.

Attention @pab567 Don't forget to tag correctly or he will maybe miss your message. 🤝

You are bang on the money as usual. Here is the OEM number, that has now been superceded Part number 567 955 426 has been replaced by 567 998 001, but that new number is hard to find in any catalogs yet. Using the old number, it appears in Autodoc https://www.autodoc.co.uk/valeo/13774292

Depends on what software tools you have to read out car data. Then as above, you won't probably be able to program in a new flash.

Not all code readers are able to interrogate the car correctly. Have you got pictures of what you are describing?

Really your choice, if it ain't broke don't fix could apply, so maybe if you're happy and not experiencing any bug's, best left alone. It's always available if you change your mind.

https://www.skoda-parts.com/catalog/kamiq/spare-parts/accessories/wheels-steel-aluminium/steel-wheel-577.html Odds are one of these 2x wheels will fit, but don't ask me, I am not a wheel expert. 2Q0 601 027H - 6J16 ET35 2Q0 601 027AA - 6J16 ET40

You can try a software download, but you need the screen to respond to touches. Holding down your Menu/Setup key for 10 seconds will get you into the engineering menu where you can view Software Train. That information I need will look like this MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0453T

Could just be a single wire causing trouble, just you need to use a scanner to locate which airbag is faulting, and what code is stored to find the fault (short to Earth/open circuit) It might even pay you to invest in a VCDS scanner, given cost of dealer visits.

You need it read with diagnostic tool, and they do come on for a reason sadly. Just bear in mind you need someone with Hex CAN v2 as you have a newer car.

If my research is correct, you have Bolero Which means your screen should be part number 6V0 919 604 that is now replaced by 6V0 919 604B Ideally you should purchase the 4x release pins and check on the back for the above number

You need to identify what kit you have in your car. Either by VIN decoding, or if lucky and there's not a lot of choice for your car, a picture can help. On the unit, you can press Menu/Setup key and get some information there, you can also repeat this, but hold button down for 10 seconds to enter the engineering menu with Software Train information in among other values that can help.

The PM has been sent, best of luck!

Hahaha well sure... I was just reading which package you need, it's a 10GB unpack/repack I need to perform. It exist as a two-part update, as you cannot go directly to 0278 You will step from 0238 to 0268 Then it will allow you to update to 0278 as you cannot go directly.

If you accept the risk yourself to load this, then sure. I have only got MIB2 radio in my own car, but provide any files needed, provided you accept the risks.

It was something I was taught, and read somewhere, took me a while to find the source. This is from VW SSP504 Vehicle Batteries Replacing the battery The procedure used to replace the battery differs according to vehicle type, equipment level, and market. For example, the battery may be installed in either the engine compartment or the luggage compartment. Independent of this, there are a number of important basic rules which must be adhered to when replacing a battery. Removing the battery • Unlock the vehicle. • Switch off all electrical consumers. • Switch off ignition. • Open the battery heat shield. • Undo the clamp connection for the negative battery terminal clamp and pull off the earth cable battery clamp. • Undo the clamp connection for the positive battery terminal clamp and pull off the positive cable battery clamp. • Unscrew the securing bolts and remove the clamping plate or the mounting bar. • To prevent a voltage drop in the vehicle electrical system, the vehicle voltage should be maintained by means of a backup power supply, as described on page 46. • When installing the battery outside the engine compartment, pay particular attention to the gas venting hose.

Taken from a MIB3 TPI (Technical Product Information) sheet The radio-navigation system must work correctly. If the software update cannot be performed because the device repeatedly switches on and off again (reset loop), the device has to be replaced according to the ⇒ repair manual/parts catalogue. However, a single reset does not justify replacement of the device. Note that in the case of replacement of the device the costs cannot be accounted on this TPI. The party line is clear, a single fail/reboot is not enough... if yours has been doing it regularly and you have complained and took it back for exactly this... they shouldn't have a leg to stand on. Fingers crossed you get somewhere with Skoda UK. 🤞

You can take a read here of the official process here... too long; didn't read: In short, if you are replacing an EFB with an EFB or AGM with AGM of very similar Ah capacity, then no you should get away without needing diagnostic tool. If you change from one battery type to another, then absolutely get it adapted! EDIT: Better add the obvious warning here, even if I am teaching you to suck eggs. Always remove the negative clamp from from the battery terminal first, then positive after. Refitting is the reverse, Positive goes on first, then negative, be brave, the bugger will spark and you may brick it (even though I know it is coming, I hate it) This is AFAIK the correct way, or at least how I do it, happily to be corrected. I make sure to keep the driver door open, or window down just in case, and make sure key is in pocket and not possibly going to be locked inside the car.

Good news and bad news... Good news the following J623 Engine ECU files are available FL_05L906022P_0780__V001.frf FL_05L906022P_1491__V001.frf FL_05L906022P_1825__V001.frf Bad news, you won't be able to load these flash files without different hardware and software, you need a dealer level tool ideally.

Mine has latest 0253 version, I can enable... but it won't talk to my phone regardless. So I just use bluetooth for calls. I suspect that you could load any of the software versions (dangerous as mentioned) and still your mirrorlink will not function if your phone is not on the 'list' inside the unit of tested phones.

@nta16 I was more referring to the actual process of changing a battery as it can be scary if you have not done it, you know the brown trouser moment when your dash lights up 'like an Xmas tree' I have not mentioned it because I thought you didn't believe me. On a separate note, I dare say that when a battery is nearing the end of it's life, and people don't notice the warning signs, they will maybe start seeing errors that you often describe as the multiple control units spit their dummy out, power steering is a hungry beast, and a dying battery might not quite supply enough power and steering stutters and/or puts on a warning lamp. I replaced my battery before it actually died, and 096AGM with over 7 years of use, for me it was noticing the stop/start off time was very short lived, as the SOC in battery was poor. I preferred to replace it rather than get stranded miles away from home. 100m was metres, as I was referring to a short journey 😉 Maybe metres has a capital 100M, but I think it has a small 100m iirc.

You have the 027EFB Size as seen here You can see at the bottom of the image, that it matches your OEM number 1S0 915 105A Tanya is one of the cheapest and fastest suppliers in the UK, and they pack those batteries very well. Varta is a common OEM supplied from factory, and Bosch are made in the same factory. https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/027-efb/ You can input your Reg to filter if you like, and be sure to measure up existing fitted battery to make sure my work is accurate before you purchase.

Thanks, I presume you wish to stick with the same battery type, EFB? I will reply shortly with part's you can use.

This will look weird, on mobile you can press paperclip/add file On desktop the buttons should be the same.