varooom

I will prepare a few relevant pages for you (PM)

I dare say you would have added some soot during revving process, so it's just reading that. The EGR will also be impacting pressure readings as it does it's thing I suspect. Resetting the exhaust is a basic counter of how much life (estimated) that exhaust has. So in real life as you have seen, it doesn't change your regen behavior, as that is down to soot production. My car still wants to regen often, but it's primarily used once a week to drive around town at low speed as I am teaching my son how to drive. Just the soot now will drop under 15g thankfully as it drives about, no 'hard floor' so to speak. 100% down to cleaning off the soot that built up from previous owner, not that I am helping it by only doing short journeys, but I am aware of that fully.

Separate yes, but easily solved if you code out 56 and code in 5F iirc. Lower priority of course.

Not easily, you need to be able to lay on your back, half-in/out of the car. It's under steering wheel area. What source of wiring diagrams are you using? Asking so that we can see if we are on same page, quite literally.

Smoking like a chimney, with my own car, it definitely adds soot at 2,500rpm limiter. That's a no-load scenario, to be expected. At idle (1,000rpm for you now) I suspect soot measured would decrease.

Your values look logical, there is a sensible increase in values as what I would expect. Resetting your exhaust as you have found out, hasn't stopped the regens, as your soot values are what keeps causing it sadly. I think I mentioned before that my own car hit a 'soot wall' where it couldn't drop below 15g during active regen. Only since cleaning it has this improved, but probably like your car.. it seems to produce a fair bit of soot for not much driving. Sensor(s) location: Remove top cover, and the silver heat shield around DPF sensor(s)

It looks like PIN38 on T73A (Black) connector is the output to be checked. 38 - Output for heated exterior mirror, driver side, heated exterior mirror, front passenger side

You can cure your 19 - Gateway fault by coding out/in 56 - Radio as needed in theory, and that error will bugger off. The fault would need wiring diagrams and tracing of destinations to measure Voltages, do you have these to reference?

Welcome! MEN2_EU_SKGPx_P0080L MU 8755 Is available, and I can send you a PM link

@Crucian I would recommend if you can to post your entire VCDS log here so that people can see what errors exist in the car. (feel free to delete your VIN from the log) It maybe the BCM/Comfort contol has failed internally, providing constant power where it should not be. The loom you fitted, it matched the part number of the original one 100%?

Older is a two port, one before and after DPF Newer design one's are singles before DPF and 2nd port is open to atmosphere

I can only suggest posting a full scan log if possible.

It's in the above image, the 3 character's at the end Z00 to Z0J And some parts catalogs online are out of date. What's the actual issue as to why you need to change/fix this module?

It might have been best to post up your full VCDS scan log. However this is what your HW number comes up with, interpret the values as you wish. It was recently dropped, for an updated part number.

@Orman You may wish to use VCDS to generate a log of the rpm vs. pressure readings. Off Idle 1,000 rpm to 2,500 rpm These are the values that can determine if the sensor is reading sensible values or not.

Alternator reading then, not actual battery... and as mentioned needs a min of 2hrs rest after charging before you read in values.

I did see that, but didn't have time to check over some flow-chart documents for expected values. Could the EGR be having this fluttering effect? Not sure at the moment...

🤝Edit is good! All good ideas, my concern is definitly about fire risk. Probably best if the DPF was not tricked in any way shape or form (unless it's coded out via a remap)

If the reservoir is frozen, then only when defrosted you can drain it. That's assuming the pump is not broken currently, so that might need looking into. It would need to be in a warm place for several hours to defrost is that has happened. I did missunderstand you on the interior lights not working, now reading it back I can see. How was you checking fuses? Remove and inspect, or was you checking the end points with a meter for continuity?

@J.R. Maybe a clamp across the DPF rubber pipe to sensor might fool it enough into thinking the pressure is lower. Risk is this, if the soot reads 15g after you cheat system, but in reality is 45g+... then the OP might cause a fire as above this threshold this can occur.

Given the current cold snap, the screen wash fluid may not be strong enough for the cold, and maybe frozen (have you put in correct strength mix, or still on Summer ratio?) The heated seats will not take too much power from the battery if low, my own car with heated seats when the car is just started the performance is poor. If the car battery has sufficent charge, then the seat heats up really quickly, so you maybe have low battery SoC (State of Charge) when you requested heating. I am with @toot who hit reply before me 😄about battery. Have you got a basic meter to check it's strength? Only read Voltage after the car has rested for a minimum of 2hrs after journey (ideally wait overnight and check) What sort of average length are your journeys? Short ones will not raise the SoC high enough, so next journey it starts, but not enough for seat heating.

They only live for 24hrs 😉 Allow me to send a refreshed one now...

You can use more than binary in the serial number. VAO or VA0 should not make any difference to the charging, merely cosmetic to show what was fitted (they leave factory on JCB, so that tells you enough as to how important it is) Rating, technology type are important values of course. Taken from an Audi training document, check out serial number @Smart Pro I suspect by your own admission, that you left your car ignition on for an extended period, thus draining the battery under 12V. You then drove a whopping 45 miles with the Alternator/charging light on before you told the car it had a 'new' battery. The Alternator would have provided enough power for lights/heating etc, but as the car had determined your existing battery was too low to safely charge, a safety feature to not allow any input of power would have occured. You then fooled the car into thinking it had a new one, and it instantly applied power to charge it up. p.s. This is my opinion on how the event occured, and why the light was on, then got extinguished. Only VAG would know if this theory of mine is correct.

As your old radio is not there now, I would change my recommendation to untick 56 radio. Save and check again if gateway is without fault, and if the car is not draining. 77 Telephone, the open circuit suggests something unplugged perhaps, did you unplug old microphone (or maybe it cannot reach radio so reports open circuit) Hopefully you can get new multimeter and check battery.

My logic is your car is sealed up, therefore the moisture is stuck. So while your AC is not active in these Temps, you might need to help it 'leave' the car. Just be careful opening window is they are iced up, open it for last few minutes and whack fans up on high speed to get it flowing.