varooom

@EP90 There are some SSP (learning documents) that mention about battery drain where they say about say moving in slow moving traffic may not be enough to keep up with the power demand. So fits in with what you say about driving in cold using additional loading. Definitely will drain, and increase revs/disable items for protection. Hopefully when you get chance to check at garage you will know better what is going on with battery/mirror. Seems someone put these online, feel free to have a read (more on the site for anyone to take a read) https://procarmanuals.com/vag-ssp-504-vehicle-batteries/

You need to find the value called Software Train. Hold down the Menu/Setup button for about 10 seconds to enter engineering menu.

AGM? If yes, is this same as you are swapping from? And do you have the correct fibreglass blanket it should sit in?

Only a little... I did have a nice 15 plate Superb, wishing I kept it now, not knocking the Octavia Estate I have though, it ate a new washing machine like a snack a few weeks back.

Sounds nice, hope you enjoy the Superb.

If you have developer mode still enabled, then odds are you can fix yourself. Test by holding down your setup/menu key to enter engineering menu, then hold down button again for about 10 seconds and you may see developer menu. If not you can enable with VCDS for example.

Take a picture of the code on the battery, also dimensions are easy to obtain. Sounds like 027, a dinky battery size. 096 are hearty size of about 278mm in length.

Not gonna lie, mine was cleaned in situ. Chemical sprayed down the DPF pressure pipe. Hopefully someone can let you know, odds are it can be squeezed out with a little moving of other parts.

Usually you don't loose the activation codes, but it can occur. It also happens when it's been unlocked with a tool, and then new firmware flashed. Fixing will depend on how the code was originally enabled. If from factory, then you will need online connection so factory can re-input the code needed. If someone used a tool, then you will have to pay Skoda, or hack unit to insert codes needed.

Will PM you a link to 0490 version.

The extra tickover speed, if the car is not doing a regen then the J519 controller will be increasing the revs, and at the same time will turn off (override) high energy demanding items. This time of year, when you have additional needs on the battery, this will take over, and increase the idle speed. If the battery you have now is tired @EP90 then this is why the revs are increased. @Bas750 This will be the clicking noises you are hearing when your car has low stored battery SoC (State of Charge)

Take a look at this thread, plenty of good information there to read upon. tl;dr it's all guessing without a code read/wiring diagrams/multimeter to help narrow it down.

They have a very strong spring inside the headlight washer's... Like a snapping turtle. You need to drain some screenwash and add pure concentrated screenwash, so the dilutions are now Winter spec, if no wash comes out when you try, leave it or you'll pop fuse for motor.

I will send you a link soon via Private message function.

It could be gearbox related, mostly it's guesswork for us remotely trying to diagnose.

Sounds like a GPF doing a regeneration cycle? Search here for GPF and you will find a few results.

Find and post your software train information when you can.

Some have updated the firmware and this has fixed the cold screen issues. It could also be your screen is breaking too, hard to be sure.

Even armed with my VIN decoded, I still get 5x listed alternators. So the only real way to be sure is to take it out, or get a good look at the parts number on the Alt, if they haven't been destroyed by weather. Apart from using a multimeter, what have you done for diagnostic? Did you check Earth strap etc? Wiring checked? Odds are you will need a new battery also now to add insult to injury, deep discharge will have made battery struggle to hold future charges (if it takes one at all)

I did the same for my own car, made me gulp!

Sounds like they forgot a step in activating all your codes for fitted parts. Called not following the TPI document 🙄

As I mentioned back in October, with a multimeter you could have done some wiring checks. Here is a guide I wrote for my own wiring loom issue.

That could be a DPF regeneration cycle, or the battery needed extra power, so the car will increase the rpm to add energy into the 'store'. DPF regen, the fans would be spinning after you turned off. Ideally you need a code reader to find out why the mirror is not working. Alternatively you could measure resistance of each side, and a broken one will read differently. Too many possibles, but DIY is possible depending on your experience levels.

That should be a fully charged battery at that point, and doesn't need charging. Could be wrong, but happy to be corrected. VAG don't help themselves, here in the same document... SSP504 Vehicle Batteries VAO VA0 Your extremely low SoC from leaving ignition on may have made things go crazy, you kicked the car up the ar5e making it think it had new battery, and it then started Alternator and cleared off the warning lamp. I agree 100%, only VAG would know this, but getting a definitive answer is difficult (look above for VAO / VA0 in same document) This is the only part I disagree with your statement of it needing to be in Binary format (serial number) Apart from that everything is all good, and should be helpful to others.

I would change it now if it was my battery, no sense getting stuck on the side of the road freezing cold as the engine has stopped running.