Berisford

Someone knows how to do a Google search it seems! What is the point of posting this?

Might have been 'public awareness' notices in the form of a A4 laminate fastened to the odd telegraph pole along the stretch but that doesn't do much to help the motorist that's been driving the route for the past 4 decades. It's unreasonable to expect drivers to notice a sign has gone missing and therefore 'New 30mph Limit' information boards should be erected in the section.

Just had look in my boot - I'm sure a 145 80 18 wouldn't fit (diameter) in the well and yes, it'd lift the boot floor as the 125 sits flush with the floor of the boot.

Can't recall the exact circumstances but the 'coding' exercise on the VCDS was quite basic. not the procedure I had expected, with the QR code on the battery giving very little away - the Golf is 2010.

It's only the cheapest one they did at the time (2019), Topdon 101 - the nearest equivalent on your link page would be the BT50..... I bought it on the recommendation of my Indie spanner monkey - he used a all singing all dancing Topdon and was happy to recommend the brand. I'm sure my humble bottom of the range device may well be less accurate than some but it gives me a good indication as to the battery state.

Yes the Golf is Stop-Start - I replaced the original battery 4 years ago - Bosch AGM 760 amp EN - just had to Topdon meter on it and it shows 98% charged with 12.65v - the SoH is a bit low at 59%. Considering I don't use it for anything other than local pottering about I think it's doing OK........

On my 2024 SE-L there's no way it would go a month without some sort of intervention, be that a run else a top-up charge. I've been out today, did around 50 miles, and the battery now (on the Topdon meter) is showing 68% charged 'good battery'. I've done the test a few times before and the battery is never more than 70% charged after a run - however, if I put the Ctek on overnight it'll come up to 97%. After letting it stand for 9 days recently (locked) the state of charge was down to 32% - a little worrying I think. A few months ago my Superb battery was replaced under warranty (long story on the Superb page) and since then I've been monitoring its condition. If I leave the car locked I see quite a decline in the state of charge, though if I leave it in the garage unlocked it'll lose almost nothing - after putting it on the Ctek almost a month ago it's gone from 98% down to 89%. I'm sure the VW back room boys have done their sums but letting the car only charge the battery to 70% just doesn't seem right. The Superb has had 2 services and my previous Karoq also had two services - on all occasions the 'advice' was that the car needed a long run to charge the battery, yeah, really? The dealer offered to charge the battery on the Superb for £30 - thanks but no thanks, especially as it turned out the battery was a dud. Just my experiences and observations on Skoda stop-start batteries.

Bloody scandalous - they’ve kept these nice little earners quiet haven’t they…….

Something has altered inasmuch as your query Rory is exactly the same as mine back in 2019 - the reverse camera gave a nice clear picture until one day the number plate became visible and the picture was not as clear.........

The reprogramming / diagnostic as you put it was done by the vehicle on the initial short run………

Assuming you’re in the UK and have found this recently maybe the ambient temperature is already high enough - Climatronic doing its job?

Standard & Wide views on my 2024 SE-L

The .GOV site might say ‘overnight’ but I’ve found it be almost instantaneous…….

Pleased you got it fixed for nominal money - my bet on the ABS exciter was wrong - I’ll get my coat!

Explains why my Goodyear EfficientGrip have seemingly come to the end their life with a good 4mm on the main body of the tyres after just 30k - I’d normally expect 50k out of a set of good quality rubber……. I’ll be looking for a tyre without the shallow edge tread in the next few weeks.

I’ve done something similar on my Karoq taking the fir tree clip out - I did have trouble finding a suitable ‘plug’ to secure my plate - the hole is quite narrow to start and then opens out. I didn’t route the cable through the headlining on account of me using a stand alone Viofo A119 - I’ve run the cable from the power source in the boot up the rubber door seal and had to accept a little loop of cable around the camera. Whilst I’m quite pleased with my install I’ve been trouble with poor DAB reception, tried a variety of fixes and after several 5 mile circular trips around where I live I’ve isolated much of the interference to it being down to the 5v power supply device.

Each to his own opinion, Taff asked for opinions as to where he should start first, I’m just saying, given the circumstances, my money is on the ABS system. As for changing the sensor in a ‘few minutes’, hmmm, tell that to the workshop 😁. Have you ever changed one that came out cleanly, they invariably snap off at the connector end? As for there being magnets in the ‘exciter’ ring - I’m fairly sure there is on my VW Golf hub, however, I’m not putting all my money on the nose, the Superb may be different.

The ring with the magnets in - I assume it’s also called a ‘trigger wheel’ maybe? Either way, the problem is you can’t see the condition of the part unless the hub is removed - at which point you’re kinda committed (not least the one time use compression bolt) and a new hub assembly may as well be fitted - also, when the hub is off the sensor probe is accessible because getting ‘em out invariably results in part snapping off.

My money is on the ABS exciter - not even an each-way bet, all on the nose, ABS exciter, left rear.

I changed the right rear parts on my Golf recently - started with the sensor (about £7.50 on Amazon) - that didn’t cure it so had to go for the hub assembly (eBay about £25) with the ABS exciter built in. Also had to buy a long M18 Torx socket. (£7.50) Easy job just so long as you’ve got a serious breaker bar - that bolt is tight.

I fitted a rear dash cam this last weekend - I bought another stand alone ViofoA119 - I lose the twin screen evidence facility but I figured the stand alone device will have all the GPS data anyway. However, the wife came in yesterday complaining that her radio station (Gold) has been rubbish whist she was out, constantly fading out - I pondered the gripe for about 2 seconds before it hit me……DAB / dash cam interference, I’d completely forgot about the problem. Anyone else have this problem - a search shows up quite a few mentions in recent years - anyone fixed it? As an aside, because the rear power socket in powered at all times I ran a thin signal wire from the fuse panel (same fuse I’ve used for the front DC) to the rear and wired a relay to not only ignition power the Viofo, but also the rear 12v socket. Looking like I should have saved my £100 and my weekend by not bothering…….

I’m sure it’s possible with a little gentle probing via a length of fairly stout wire with the cable attached to the rear………

That list of errors showing up has all the hallmarks of a ABS sensor failing or mis-reading the a wheel signal...........

That’s about the standard of customer service everywhere these days - bar stewards.