JR RS

As @Danoid indicated, that bit of the dogbone mount is meant to move like that with the engine. That won't b the cause of the horrible sounds. U can get a dogbone insert that will firm up the movement, but as I said - it won't b the culprit. @Danoid - I didn't replace mine, but I got a 034 Motorsport aluminium lower insert which sits around the existing bushing.

That's because when I created those instructions at the time it wasn't possible via VCDS. I've never got confirmation that it has been done successfully via VCDS, so I haven't updated my instructions. Nonetheless, the steps r essentially the same, just different interface.

DCC Recalibration can b done with OBDEleven and apparently VCDS too.

The link to my build page goes in detail, but yes - u lose a lot of coolant. I had to top up with almost a 1L back in.

Over the weekend I replaced the plastic coolant vent union adaptor with a metal version. Preventative measure really as these things r known to fail cause it is located right next to the hot turbo. More info about it here. Comparison.... Fitted....

Another preventative measure tackled over the weekend - replacing the failure prone plastic coolant vent union adaptor. The factory plastic adaptor, given it's location right next to the hot turbo, is prone to crack and failure eventually, resulting in coolant leaks or loss. After 8 yrs, turns out the plastic adaptor on Gandalf was still in good condition, including the O-ring. Replacement part is made of aluminium. I got an 034 Motorsport version, but there r plenty of other options. Whilst I was at it, I also changed the rubber hose pipe that attaches to it. Changing it is easier by removing the coilpack harness out of the way so u can easily access the vent union adaptor. That said, it is still a very tight spot being in the "valley"!! Also, have a 1L bottle of coolant ready as u'll loose a lot of coolant in the process - hence u need to top up. In my case, G12Evo (G12E050A2) Part Numbers:- Vent Coolant Union Adaptor - 034-102-Z048. Replaces factory part number 06K 121 143 Coolant Union Adaptor Hose - 06K121051M Spring Clamps - N90686701 Replacement bits.... Comparison.... Factory one removed.... Aluminium replacement in place....

MY19 is MIB2.5 infotainment. MY21 is MIB3 infotainment. Likely something has changed with MIB3.

The issue was on MY15 & MY16 models. The rear door chrome trim gets pushed forward over time, until eventually it fouls with the front door, subsequently getting ripped off when the front door is opened. They resolved this from MY17 onwards.

When buying the top grille b careful as they come in 3 parts - the grille, the grille surround and the radar cover. Most places sell these separately. There r two versions of each part - Sportline (black) version and non-Sportline (chrome + black) version. Hence u need to make sure u get the right combo. U can find them on AliExpress, eBay plus others. Kopacek sell the surround and cover.

I've been using a Wheel hanger for years n years n years. I remove my wheels often, that this was a must. Makes it so much easier to remove and put the wheel back on/off the hub. A must also for those who use spacers. I don't use spacers anymore, since changing to aftermarket rims - but it's still super helpful for any rims. It's good for ur back n legs too cause ur not straining to position and align the holes. This is the wheel hanger on the rear axle.

u can actually swap out the button set alone, however it's a lot more faffing around. they're not that expensive. steering clockspring on the other hand is quite expensive if u went from heated to non-heated, or vice-versa. i was lucky that i got the version i got secondhand, for the price of peanuts, from a mate. brand new it costs way too much and i'm sure i would not have done this retrofit if i had to pay that price!! umm....don't know, sorry. on mine, the voice assist is on the left side, next to the volume scroll button. the car assist button is on the right side, above the Phone symbol.

Found the discussion here. Part number of the flat-bottomed steering wheel I got was 565 419 091 E BGW

@Binx1310 - if u didn't have heated steering wheel before and then get one with - u'll need to change the clockspring as well, plus coding. @Sko101 - yes u can use one from an Octavia vRS. That's wat I did about 3-4 yrs ago. I replaced my round wheel with a flat-bottomed wheel from an Octavia vRS, with paddle shifters. As @Binx1310 mentioned above - u need to make sure it the right version otherwise ur current airbag will not fit the wheel. I think pre-MY19 should b ok. Also, given urs is MY16, make sure u look at wheels without the "VIEW" button. I'll dig up the part number I used and share it soon. Mine is MY17

MY15 & MY16 models can't do ambient light matching. They can physically only do 3 colors. That came from MY17 onwards, with the 10 colour option. If u want that, u need to physically change the ambient light LED modules in the door cards and dash. BCM is also a factor.

don't buy stuff from AliExpress and expect it to b the same quality as OEM, especially lighting stuff.

That I don't know unfortunately as I don't have one myself. I however found this from research I did about 6 yrs ago. It shows how the lower door trim is fixed on to the door itself. I did however improvise by making my own chrome strip, using L-shaped door edge stripes, from AliExpress.

the lower door trim on the L&K and Sportline model have a different trim with indentation that caters for the stripe (chrome for L&K and black for Sportline). other models don't have this stripe, hence don't have the indentation in lower trims. The stripe is normally sold with the lower trim piece - not alone. the lower trim needs to be color matched to ur car. the lower door trim is glued and screwed into the door pane. requires removal of the interior door card removal to access the bolts. there used to b a website that sold this, for super crazy expensive prices - https://www.skodaautoteile.de however this site doesn't seem to work anymore. an alternative is Kopacek or AliExpress. they sell just the chrome/black stripe stick-on version. this is the Kopacek one - black version:- for Superb III - side doors bottom stripes glossy black 4pcs set - SPORT LINE | Kopacek.com - Skoda Tuning with worldwide express shipping

glad to see the guide is still being helpful in total now, i've removed my front bumper half a dozen times now, for various reasons. i agree - i don't understand how people r able to remove the upper or lower grilles without removing the front bumper entirely, given the number of clips and torx screws everywhere. yes its a hassle to get the bumper off, but once its off - it is so so much easier to access every clip and screw, without obstruction.

@Sko101 - as mentioned above, MU1433 is the latest version for the MIB2 units.

No offense taken - all good 🙂 Thanks for pointing it out.

My bad....I should've said EA888 Gen 3B engine cover. I incorrectly assumed the FL Superb used the same cover. I'll update my post.

This topic has been covered many times. Given u have the 280 AWD, part number u want is either:- E10-79-012-04-22 for wagon/estate (3V5) E10-85-042-03-22 for sedan/saloon (3V3)

Definitely not normal behavior for the DSG-6 DQ250. Have u tried doing the same but with Autohold turned off beforehand?

Have u performed the "Confirmation of Installation Change" procedure yet? U need a new XOR Key to fix this. It's all explained in a how-to-guide I created a while ago. Although given u changed BOTH screen and headunit, u probably don't require this step.

For those interested, the EA888 Gen 3B engine cover fits nicely on pre-facelift Superb. U just need 2x engine cover ball studs (WHT007324) for the engine cover. It screws into pre-existing mounting holes on the intake manifold. My original engine cover had APR badges on it which was no longer relevant, so I ended up replacing it with the Gen 3B engine cover version. The two ball studs screw into pre-existing mounting holes on the intake manifold. Engine cover part no. is 06K103925CK. I stuck a Skoda badge on top of the VW logo 😁