JR RS

Tis a shame it didn't work out, then again not surprised given its an AliExpress version.

With DCC shocks, it is recommended to run the DCC Recalibration procedure after installing the springs. Plenty use either Eibach Pro-kit springs or H&R springs. I have had Eibach Pro-kit Springs in mine (MY17) for almost 7 yrs now, with DCC shocks. No issues. With factory 19s... With aftermarket 19s....

so, more than 2 months later and unfortunately its back. i noticed it end of July it was starting to mist up again around the edge (base). it progressively reached a good 2-3 cms up the filter housing at the start of this month. i finally got the chance to see my mechanic about it yesterday - they said it's nothing to worry about given i'm not losing any oil, it's not dripping/leaking, nor is there any performance impacts. given the car is now at Stg 3, we can expect more "pressure" in the engine, so some of this is not out of the ordinary. i'll just have to take this as normal, and give it a wipe every couple of months.

hmmm, that i don't know sorry. i do remember reading (back then) that it's "best practice" to stick with the pairs, i.e. 15 with 16; and 17 with 18. however, who knows, perhaps they might work if u interchanged them, i.e. paired 18 with 15.

on the headlight itself, where the wiring harness plugs into, is different between version A and version B. from memory, there r more pins on version B headlights.

@Binx1310 - when i did my front grille DRL light bar, i ran a cable from the BCM, through the firewall and into the engine bay. its located above the passenger (for RHD cars) footwell. there is NO need to remove the glovebox or the fusebox there. u will need to remove the battery though, which u've done, to pull the wire through. no need to remove the airbox either. close up of the grommet ..... grommet located just above where the felt ends...... blue line showing the path

no, the wiring harness on the car side does not need to change. in other words - it caters for both version A and version B headlight plugs. i didn't have to change or modify anything with the wiring harness when i switched from A to B.

That looks very different to what is OEM for the liftback/sedan. Nonetheless, good luck with the project. This is how they look.....

Galano has a TCU tune specifically for FWD, which uses Boost-by-Gear to get the power down. It does a pretty good job at it. I was getting more axle tramps back in the days with my APR Stage 1 !!! This Galano setup does an amazing job, despite pushing way way more power through the front wheels now.

lol. Gandalf is Stg 3 now with a Garrett Powermaxx turbo 😁

Thanks. The side skirts also help it bring it closer to the ground. No change in horsepower since the last update. Back then it was doing bout 200 hp, when i first got it. Now it's doing 400 hp 😁 That's not going to change anymore.

Comparison shots of Gandalf evolving over the years - from brand new to now.

Comparison shots of Gandalf evolving over the years - from brand new to now.

There r 3 modules in total on each headlight - 1x power ballast (at the back) and 2x Light Control Modules (underneath). Pic of the two modules underneath....

Ur not supposed to take anything out of the mib2 folder. Just copy, once extracted, all the folders as is, including the mib1 folder plus the other files. The root folder is meant to have 2 folders (mib1 and mib2) and 1 file (metainfo2.txt). If anything is missing from the extract, the checksum will b incorrect and the update will never b successful.

MY17 Superb here - as already mentioned above, heating only available for the rear seats. only front seats get heating and cooling.

Definitely can swap around the ballasts to see if it's the issue or not. The ballast is accessible from the top, via the engine bay. It sits on the back of the headlight. Silver looking metal square thingy. If the problem moves to the other side, then u know the ballast is the issue and it can b replaced.

Those r facelift mk3 Superb headlights. Doesn't look LED nor Matrix LED.

Broken D3S xenon bulb holder!! The last few months I started to notice the beam of the right side headlight was looking a bit off, not as bright and a faint vertical line right in the middle where there wasn't much illumination. Initial thoughts were a failing bulb, which I only replaced approx. 2 yrs ago with LED ones, or the bulb was out of its holder/socket. Turns out it was the bulb holder that was broken!! It normally holds the D3S firmly in the socket with a twist to lock it in. Mine was sitting loose, hence the bulb was not in its correct position, resulting in poor light output. Somehow the bottom hinge had broken. Was not fixable, hence a replacement holder was ordered. Part No. 9FH 161 097-016 All fixed now. The right side beam is now as it should be, again. p.s. mine being a pre-facelift with SLA headlights (version B), it uses a different mechanism to hold the bulb. Version A headlights use the spring clip method. Broken one on left. Replacement on right. How it sits on the D3S bulbs....

looks like a standard EFB rather an EFB+ EFB+ models generally provide higher amp-hour capacity and slightly stronger cold-cranking amps (CCA) than baseline EFB tiers from the same brand family.

From factory they come with EFB+ batteries. If it's changed to AGM, then the battery type needs to b changed to "Fleece". Also....it's 3 yrs, so it's about time to start dying, in hence time to replace.

Wat @Berisford said.....

If u have a genuine heated windscreen, it will have a purple haze/tinge to it, in the sunlight. Otherwise it will b a normal greenish haze/tinge.

The R600 setup has the dual air intake and replaces the entire factory air box setup. Its filter connects up to turbo inlet pipe.

None of the after market intakes will unblock the closed off air flow behind the grill. All they do is remove the blocked section on the intake itself. Essentially it's like having a blocked nose on one side. U can see in the first image that the air intake on the right, even when unblocked, is still blocked by the flow coming through the front grille. I don't know why Skoda does this. To remove the restriction, u need to remove the front bumper and dremel (cut) out the plastic trim on the right side. I did this to mine a long long time ago. If u want to take full advantage of the factory intake or aftermarket intake - u need to unblock the air flow on the right side. Factory setup has the right side airflow blocked. Air flow into the air intake (top) blocked on right side. Close up of the blocked air flow on right side, from factory. Close up of unblocked air flow on left side, from factory. Air flow into the air intake (top) after being cut out on the right side.