JR RS

Canton system is really good on the mk3 pre-facelift Superb, nice & punchy and clear without distorting. The Canton sub is known to have weak wiring connections, breaking off on the sub itself, hence making the sound experience terrible. The Canton system on the facelift Superb with the MIB3 units is not as good, using a different sub and DSP (amplifier).

lol.....all good. at least u were on the right path being DSG shifter related. @tombee - yes, u do need to to pop the top cover off if u plan to remove the entire shifter. it makes it easier to unhook the shifter linkage. there quite a few vids on youtube showing how to remove the DSG shifter. i watched a couple of different ones before i pulled my apart.

@travs - unfortunately not me. I haven't changed my DSG gear shifter. I did however change the side bits, to match the leather on the seats and the steering wheel. But as u say - most VW Audi DSG shifters will work on Skoda models.

Have a read here on how to adjust the beam height. I posted a pic there showing which nut to turn.

The pre-facelift mk3 Superb Bi-xenon uses D3S bulbs, not D2S. The Superb Bi-Xenon headlights r really good, when aimed properly. If u have a broken levelling sensor, ur headlights will simply point downwards. This is footage when I had D3S xenon bulbs before.... This is footage recently after I replaced the xenon bulb with D3S LED bulb.

not worth the trouble given the massive task. different wiring - 10-pin (halogen) vs 14-pin (HID). u need 3x leveling sensors - 2 on each front axle and one on the left rear axle. the headlight modules will b different - 1x AFS plus 2x LCM (Slave) modules. 2x power ballasts. headlight washers - which requires additional wiring harness and piping to the front bumper. as a result, washer fluid tank is different and larger. coding and parameterization of the HID headlights. from factory, the bi-xenon HID headlights r hooked up to the suspension, steering, ABS and A5 camera (for high beam assist). i would pass......

This is the module and sensor I got from AliExpress 6+ yrs ago....looks "original". woOot

well i've been happy for 6+ yrs now with my "fake" TPMS kit. it does the job as intended. it behaves, integrates and operates like OEM. no CANBUS issues. no pressure reading issues. when the batteries in my TPMS sensors run out, given they can't be replaced and have a life expectancy of 6 to 8 yrs, i'll buy another "fake" TPMS kit from AliExpress, swap out the sensors in the tyres and replace the module behind the bumper. i won't require any coding or adaptation changes. i'll b good for another 6-8 yrs again.

The mk2 Octavia is PQ35 platform, which uses different TPMS modules to that used with the mk3 MQB platform.

Sadly no. From memory, the module can only have a max of 5 (maybe 6??) sensors paired. The TPMS sensors need to b paired to the TPMS module using suppa rare specialist TPMS programming tools. Even adding one tyre, say a spare tyre, will require the additional sensor to b purchased first and then paired, via the specialist tool, to the module. If u have another set of 4 tyres, u either need to get the sensors moved between the rims.....or ....have another TPMS module with its own set of 4x sensors. This way u simply unplug the module associate to ur summer tyres, and plug the module associated to the winter tyres. My TPMS module is accessible from underneath, inside the rear bumper. But I don't require summer/winter tyres. But when the battery dies in my sensors, I can easily replace it with another TPMS kit.

Yes, provided u have the right headunit to start with. Should b MIB2 High Harman version. Mine was 3V0 035 045 D.

I didn't change the main/head unit in the glovebox. That's the whole point of this AIO firmware upgrade - upgrade headunit + change screen.

I got mine from AliExpress 6+ yrs ago - no issues n still going strong. Most of the TPMS kits will b fine provided u get the right version, i.e. 5Q0907273B Make sure u get one that includes the 4x sensors as they would come pre-paired with the module. Skoda uses the same ones for VW. Do not get the TPMS designed for Audi as they r different and also do temperature readings.

sadly none of the Skoda models come out of the box with Direct TPMS - the one that shows the actual tyre pressure. As @travs described above, Skoda variants get the Indirect TPMS version. It uses the wheel speed sensors to compare the rotational speed between each tyre, to determine if a tyre is over/under inflated. i retrofitted Direct TPMS to my Superb about 6 yrs ago. suppa duppa handy and i can see live tyre pressures anytime. it's the same system used across the various VW models. Audi uses a different Direct TPMS system, hence not compatible with Skoda variants.

If u only want power, u don't need to use the USB hub splitter. U just need a USB port that fits in the blank dummy spot and source the 12V power from somewhere. The USB hub splitter is too much effort for just power. If u want data and power, then yes, u need the hub.

The HBA on mine (MY17) is flawless and responds great.

Thanks to some wise words from a smart friend, I changed Gandalf's PCV valve. There wasn't any issues with Gandalf, rather I replaced the PCV valve was as a preventative measure given Gandalf is 8 plus yrs old, and the various modifications over the years. I've heard the old AT version has been known to fail. As with new refreshed parts, car feels a bit more smoother under load/boost now. I previously thought it was a quirk of the Galano ECU/TCU tune, but the change of the PCV valve seems to have smoothed this out. Most likely placebo, but this a new and better revision of the PCV valve. Less problematic based on my research recently and the few techs I've spoken to. Old:- 06K 1034 95 AT New:- 06K 103 495 BM Removing the old and replacing with the new was fairly straightforward. Hardest part for me was removing the original crimp band clamp, holding the rubber hose to the PCV valve. When fitting the new, I replaced it with an OE spring band clamp - N90686701.

Glad u got it sorted. With the cable into the armrest, yeah I just made a tiny hole in the very corner. U don't even see it with felt material and cable covering the hole. So all good.

The interior alarm will only go off if the car is locked. I've jacked mine hundreds of times with the alarm not going off.

The Kodiaq has the GSM antenna in the same location too - red arrow in pic below. so Superb should b similar too.

@tombee - good to hear it worked out. I was about to reply saying that it was part of the AIO firmware. @Kosin - all the best with the upgrade.

Fronts r 340 mm on the 280 actually. The front pads r different between the 312 mm and 340 mm front discs. The rear pads r the same with the 300 mm and 310 mm rear discs.

my (mine is MY17 FWD 220 Superb with DQ250 gearbox) experience was good with APR ECU + TCU tunes. i previously had an APR Stage 1 Hi-Torque ECU tune + TCU tune. 221 kw 530 Nm at the wheels power. no issues. very smooth gear changes. i've since switched to Galano Stage 2 ECU + TCU tune. now it's doing 242 kw 520 Nm at the wheels. DQ250 is still behaving, though not as smooth as the APR TCU tune.

Mine originally had a Columbus MIB2 unit from factory - took approx. 30 secs to b ready, i.e. NAV is ready. I've since converted it to a MIB2.5 (screen + firmware conversion) and now its ready within 5 secs!! Quick. Cold .... Hot .....same response.

Out of curiosity.....wat r the chances of a MOT tester popping the bonnet open, reaching behind the Bi-Xenon headlight, removing the headlight cover and sticking his/her head inside to see if it's Xenon bulb or LED bulb? I don't live in the UK, hence I have no idea how ruthless or to wat extent they would go to uncover stuff. U can't tell the difference by "looking" at the headlight beam pattern as it will b the same between Xenon and LED bulbs. Unlike reflector headlights, u can't see the bulb inside the projector headlights, hence not obvious.