sepulchrave

I use 33 psi all round for optimal handling balance, you can try 35 but wet grip is slightly reduced.

Only one fan may mean it's supposed to run at different speeds depending on thermal loading.

If you don't uprate the shocks it's likely to be a bit bouncy on those springs, especially the rebound, but if you're mainly a town driver then it'll be ok without.

The 1.8T will indeed fit but you really need the 2.0 to start with, however there's a problem, the bellhousing is so shallow that fitting a decent clutch in it is almost impossible without getting a custom unit made at vast expense, the standard clutch can barely hold the torque of the 2.0, let alone a 1.8T. There is no bolt-on performance for that 1.4, just drive it and spend your money on petrol instead.

Neither, it will just run worse, it's a diesel, not a petrol remember.

I'm talking about the stop screw setting to prevent overboost, it's tricky to get right on a new turbo.

If it's going into limp mode it's overboosting, get it set up properly.

It won't flow any more without the cams from the 100 bhp engine, also the ECU can't be remapped unless it's a Bosch unit, I looked into this on an AUA engined Polo back in 2001, the juice ain't worth the squeeze. Much cheaper to just fit the entire top end from a BBZ, there are loads in the breakers.

No, of course not. What on earth are you thinking, your engine doesn't need new injectors or a throttle body.

Blimey no sense of humour either, you are in a bad way!

You can just replace the pulley if your alternator is intact.

Worn valve guides are more likely than piston rings, a compression and leakdown test will confirm this.

Blimey, your eyes don't work at night, and your hands don't work either, sounds to me like you should just give up trying to drive and get the bus. 😆

You mean the auxiliary belt of course.

That's because ATE stands for Alfred Teves Engineering. Now you know.

Ouch, I'm guessing it's the rack itself leaking into the gaiters, give the gaiters a squeeze, if they're squelchy then you have your answer.

There are a lot of 'oil fairies' on these fora, there are even 'brand fairies' who swear by one companies advertising over all others. As Skrrrda has shown you, it really doesn't matter. Just change it according to schedule and you can't go wrong.

It's a little low unless you're thrashing it or using it mainly for short journeys. Try changing the CTS and the spark plugs, then the pre-cat lambda probe.

Ok, it's not. Lean running is used to reduce fuel consumption which increases NOx emissions, so EGR is introduced to offset this effect. But EGT goes DOWN during EGR so I'm not sure we can agree on your final paragraph.

I do think the caliper is sticking, if the caliper itself was hot then it's unlikely to be wheel bearing, is the disc blueing slightly as well?

That's why your aircon failed on the hottest day of the year, check the fans spin freely and haven't seized, then check the fuses. Your condenser was already very hot before you even started the car, as soon as you switched on the aircon the temperature would have shot up and with no fans running the ECU would have shut it down right away.

I think this is the most important clue, it started working when the weather got cooler.

Your brake servo is not getting any vacuum because there's a leak in the pipe, there will be splits where the hard plastic is shrunk onto the barbs.

It's about £300 to replace the worn out standard coilovers with a fresh standard setup, do you want to upgrade or not? Just replacing the springs doesn't make any sense since you have to dismantle the front struts anyway.

You need to check your radiator cooling fans are running flat out as soon as you switch the aircon on, you can do that by simply opening the bonnet and using your eyes and ears.