sepulchrave

It would appear to indicate that the post cat lambda probe has malfunctioned.

It isn't critical, the point is to tighten it enough to crush the seal but not so tight that you distort the tin can. Winos method is perfect if you already have a suitable torque wrench, my method is if you don't. Incidentally I also fit new spark plugs using the hand tight plus a quarter turn method. Cue massive heel drumming Aspergers tantrums amongst the non-ex-professionals!

It will make a massive difference, you won't need the brakes, just drive round the corners!

It's not for tightening, it's for loosening. You should tighten a new filter using your hand otherwise it can be too tight and leak.

The suspension will be completely knackered after sixteen years, just replace the whole lot, the parts are not expensive.

Grandmothers and eggs spring to mind...

12.2V is too low, it suggests the voltage is dropping like a stone under high current loads such as the power steering, unless the battery is in a very low state of charge it's kaput, after a ten hour drive the battery would indeed be fully charged yet yours isn't. If the alternator is faulty then that's why the battery's dead, however you'll still need a new battery so start there. One problem at a time and no guessing please.

That's low on both counts, suspect the battery is not charging properly and may be on the way out, try trickle charging overnight and see if the voltage comes up then check again with engine running.

It's more likely that you have voltage issues, check battery volts with the engine running and also with it stopped.

The pump is fine, it's the angle sensor that's causing the issue.

I think they might be vacuum pipes, rather than anything to do with the injectors.

No, that's running really rich, if the other two look the same then replace the ECT sensor and if that doesn't help replace the precat lambda probe.

Ok, sounds odd, suggest you disconnect the battery for a while to reset the ECU, if that doesn't make any difference you should get the engine timing checked in case the chain has jumped a tooth.

You need to temper your expectations a bit, it's not a fast car and the little engine doesn't like to rev, as Wino points out there may be an air leak causing the idle instability but other than that there may not be much wrong with the car, it's tuned for fuel economy not performance remember.

There isn't any power above 4-5k on the 70HP engine, did you just get the car?

Do whatever suits you, I shall continue to lightly copaslip my wheel bolts as I have since I was a lad, copper grease is formulated to provide a similar level of friction as a dry bolt which is why it can be used almost anywhere seizing might be an issue. Using it will certainly NOT make your bolts come loose which is really all I was trying to say.

I think that's what the rattling you can hear is. Look, I'm not saying it's definitely the clutch, I'm saying that's where I'd start because it can't be much else, you can't prove a negative until you inspect it and the abuse you give it suggests that it may be damaged.

Starting to split hairs here chaps, I've used copper grease on wheel bolts for forty years and then torqued them and never had one come out or even loosen slightly and that includes van wheel bolts at 240Nm. Because they're in and out so much it makes sense to protect them from seizing, you can always tell when they've been put in dry and used through the winter because you need the big bar to get them out and they make a horrid screeching sound as they crack off.

Clutch disengagement depends on the non-driven pressure plate, I'm not suggesting that's damaged. There really aren't many things that could cause engine vibration independent of gear or road speed. The clutch and flywheel or the crankshaft is about all there is and I doubt your crankshaft is out of balance since that would mean a major manufacturing defect, which leaves...

All torque settings are for new, dry threads unless stated otherwise, the only exception I've come across are the settings given for high tensile bolts and studs, such as head bolts and flywheel bolts. Theoretically you should reduce the torque by 20% when using lube or threadlock, practically it's not an issue because the threads are no longer new or clean.

I suspect that the clutch driven plate has died horribly and is now effectively a zombie clutch. The only way to be sure is to just replace the clutch.

Ok, the only plausible explanation is that something has come adrift in the clutch assembly, the rattling could be the cush springs in the driven plate. Has the car had a new clutch fitted and if you rev the engine gently in neutral while stationary can you feel or hear this vibration?

Errr, I think you're misunderstanding the basic purpose of greasing a bolt. Lubricating a clean bolt prior to tightening ensures that the bolt will tighten more easily and that final torque will be more accurate as a result. Copper grease is just fine because it leaves a residue of copper powder on the threads even if the grease itself is washed out or cooked off by high heat. Only loose bolts come undone.

Is it the same in every gear?

Test the wiring to the solenoid, internal breakage is quite common.