sepulchrave

Have you gone completely mad, I answered the OP originally and he's fixed the problem. I'm not here to make friends, try the metalwork class down the hall.

Don't use copper grease, it doesn't conduct well.

I wouldn't worry about that, every time the car is driven on wet roads loads of water gets sprayed all over the engine, you just don't see it happen and the heat inside the engine bay dries it out in minutes.

I wouldn't touch anything in there until that engine bay is cleaned up with soap and water.

I can't imagine it's complicated since the VRS bumper is just a cosmetic enhancement.

As stated earlier it's only a potential problem on petrol cars because they use manifold vacuum on startup to purge the vapours from the tank through a charcoal canister which can be flooded with liquid petrol causing a significant hazard.

Try 1 3/8" if you have it.

Crazy talk, loom adaptors generally come with bullet connectors to allow reversing these two wires because it's so commonplace.

Yes, but most of the weight of the car shifts to the front under braking so the rears do very little work otherwise they would just lock up.

The spring is not sitting in the lower mount correctly, if you jack the car up and remove the roadwheel you may be able to twist the spring by hand until the tail drops into the mount.

The juice isn't worth the squeeze, just rebuild the drums so they work properly, the car simply isn't fast enough to derive any benefit from rear discs, you'll end up with a worse performing handbrake and the discs will rust out through lack of use. Don't bother trying to modify this car for performance, it's not a viable platform as a starting point.

It's obvious nonsense, nail marks clean off anyway, it's just a piece of cloth impregnated with a fine cutting compound. Nano technology indeed.

No, no and maybe. I wouldn't recommend removing it if it caused problems other than triggering your OCD.

They're different part numbers so perhaps one is for the hatchback and the other for the estate?

I think one of your hydraulic lines is leaking so snake oil won't do anything at all.

You don't need to do it again, the grease will 'set' with the heat over time, it can't fall out and it's sealing so all's well.

You must be kidding JR, the only stuff I don't do is exhaust and tyre fitting, I do agree with you about the undertray though, straight in the bin, day one, on every vehicle I've owned since manufacturers started fitting them.

What a palaver, all this just to avoid removing the plug designed by the manufacturer to be removed for regular oil changes. People and their money I guess...

You don't need a strut brace, they don't really do anything on street cars except get in the way at service time.

You need to reverse the red and yellow wires to fix the memory problem.

Almost certainly the angle sensor or the wiring to it.

This may sound obvious with hindsight but if you're pushing the extraction tube down the dipstick sleeve then you want it to be slightly longer than the dipstick itself to be sure of reaching the bottom of the sump.

I don't think you have a problem at all, it's perfectly normal for a car to warm up quickly in the summer months.

It's a nasty job, the ignition lock is designed to be very difficult to defeat because it's an anti theft device, obviously.

Heater settings have nothing to do with the engine temperature, your test is indicative of a sticking flap motor which is very common on these cars.