sepulchrave

Bandits then...

You replace the water pump and tensioners because the majority of the cost is in the labour and it's crazy not to replace any wearing parts easily accessible during the performance of this labour. All this work is preventative maintenance.

Generally on fixed timing it refers to an inlet valve lift of 1mm in degrees before TDC, this is known as inlet cam advance, obviously on the later engine this value changes dynamically due to the VVT system on the inlet cam. I don't know what the exact specification is for that particular engine before you ask, my experience is with vernier pulleys on high performance engines where timing cams accurately requires a degree wheel fitted to the crank and a dial gauge riding on the valve spring retainer.

The output from the cam position sensor is a square waveform so that makes sense.

The harder you push the better it gets.

Since the sample rate for the measuring block is half a second it suggests that the measured value is fluctuating between 7 and 9 degrees advance with a mean variance of half a degree which suggests your camchain is not very loose at all. Minimal scatter.

Chain stretch is normal, the tensioner is designed to take up the slack as this happens, even a stretched chain will only alter timing by a fraction, the problem is some tensioner mechanisms allowed the chain to get too loose which caused it to jump teeth. You don't have anything to worry about until you can actually hear the chain rattling, the readings you provide prove that the chain has not jumped.

it's overdue on age alone.

If the front struts were replaced it'll be incredibly obvious because they'll look shiny and new instead of ancient and rusty, my guess is they didn't get done, just the coil spring. In any event if it's all been replaced why is it handling so badly?

Yes of course, which is why I suggested replacing them.

New dampers all round should sort it out, I think you've had enough bushes replaced already!

I'd fit it in the boot, that way you won't be distracted by pointless junk while you drive

1500 rpm is too low, the judder is caused by the ECU trying to prevent the engine from stalling, peak torque is at 4500 rpm, peak power is at 6200 rpm, there simply isn't enough useful torque available at 1500 rpm, it's not a diesel!

We have a winner!

It sounds like the ASR system is cutting in and killing the power, try driving it with the ASR system switched off. This suggests you have a problem with one of the front wheel speed sensors, have either of the front wheel bearings been replaced to your knowledge?

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17550/P1142/004418 Nothing to do with the alternator at all.

DAB is digital radio, it means buying a new head unit and an additional aerial, as a bonus you will probably get Bluetooth for your phone as well since most digital head units come with.

Unless I miss my guess, Talksh!te and 5live are only on MW, MW reception is horrible in cars generally and particularly on the Fabia, either upgrade to DAB or stream the stations you want from your phone.

That IS the post-cat lambda probe chap, do try and keep up.

I suggest you focus on function rather appearance, repair things that are broken, things like the wrong airbox are still doing their job properly by keeping the air going into the engine clean, other things like that terrible battery earth need fixing properly.

Don't take it so hard, it's just a car and you can still use it, reliability will not be affected. Unfortunately tracing an electrical fault will be more expensive because the labour will be longer, you could try an independent auto electrician, they're usually much better than garage mechanics at finding and fixing these issues.

You're right, I was thinking of the later SDI engine which is basically a N/A PD engine. Still, erring on the side of caution is no bad thing when it comes to advice, there's a wildman in this thread already!

Old tech diesels are fine on veg, you're very lucky you haven't clogged the SDI injection system yet, it's in the post though. I have no words to effectively describe how inadequate this method of filtration is for used vegetable oil.

Can't live with a full-time keyboard warrior like you sunshine, your bio says you drive a Corsa and various other crap, no mention of a VRS, I know you used to drive one a few years back, so many name changes since then it's hard to keep track but I know a pro when I see one 😉

Pointless and irrelevant. Imagine if a BLT engine core was used to replace an ASZ, how would you tell and why would you care? Dudes a troll, he hijacks every thread to make it about him, he might as well be a bot just pasting random crap, hell he doesn't even drive a Skoda any more and doesn't have the practical mechanical expertise to even understand the point I'm making.