travs

Ha. They are but they’re still consumer-grade products in general. The website is very slick but most product ranges have one that can only be applied by a pro who has attended their special course and Carpro are no exception. They put a lot of R&D into ceramic coatings early on so their product ranges were geared around it. I’ve always rated Carpro but like all manufacturers, some products are great, some have got better competitors out there.

@Dean is the above post spam with a Costa menu price linked in?

@Ryanthefireman Aperture hasn’t been on since July. He has been very sporadic all year; I don’t know if anyone’s spoken to him but I think other stuff just took priority. Try sending him a PM in case but otherwise, probably best not to hold your breath on this

What have you got in mind?

Even though the Trinity wheels are Diamond Cut they are still clearcoated over the top. So that’s not a problem at all. I’ve done wheels for a customer before and did 2 coats of Carpro CQuartz which would work absolutely fine. Maybe some wheel-dedicated ones could withstand higher temps but otherwise I’d be interested to know exactly what the difference really is

Agree - perfectly reputable company as far as I’be ever known 👍🏼

I’m a bit mixed on this personally. Carbon collective is a well respected company and they have some decent products (generally companies can be hit and miss depending on who their chemist is, or what they buy from which chemical company - there is a some relabelling going on in the industry). But I have a couple of reservations with the claims on this page: Anyway who starts quoting numbers from the Mohs scale isn’t a real measure of it. Ceramic coatings have strong solvents which break the bonds of the clearcoat and mix in with the softened layers; crosslinking with itself within the clearcoat. This is what gives it its longevity. Claiming this is just as good on bare metal and painted finished as well as clearcoat. With no clearcoat I don’t see how it can bond as well and claim the same longevity. I’ve had chemical burn using a tar remover (strong solvent) on a wheel (clearcoated wheels like those from the factory are fine) to find it’s been reconditioned with a cheaper rattle can finish (you get white etched marks) and there’s a good chance that the solvents in this would do the same which would look awful and would be too late. Those marks need to be polished off with compound so claiming this is good for painted finishes. Of course happy to be corrected on any of this if the chemistry and research has moved on. In a nutshell, on clearcoated wheels like those from the factory will be fine and benefit from this as much as pretty much any other respected ceramic coating. As usual make sure they’re super clean and decontaminated from, brake dust, iron fallout and tar remover (get rid of any leftover glue from wheel weights) processes to make sure they look best and the coating has the best chance of bonding.

Mine is the same as @JR RS on facelift with MIB3 and Columbus. Overlay comes up in the bottom corner when you press the seat button at which point you can jump to whichever setting you like (hot/cold/1/2/3/off). It’s an overlay so the screen behind stays on what it was.

@nicknorman you’re not tied to any dealer. If you’re not happy then have a look around for alternatives. For wipers ask them how much they’ll charge and compare to Bosch from ECP etc. But someone had the genius idea of getting the Arteon version which is slightly longer so you clear more of the screen. This is the part number for front and rear and how much they were from Tayna which was the best price I could find at the time. I found I had to trim a tiny bit of the clip down but once I realised which bit it was easy. For Haldex and Brake Fluid - you don’t have to get them done at a dealer for warranty as they are maintenance and not servicing work. Warranty relies on servicing but maintenance can be done as long as it’s done at a proper place and the service record can be updated. I had a very respected specialist do it and also included (what Oot alluded to) cleaning the gauze on the Haldex pump. It isn’t on the official VAG workshop process but anyone with a pulse sees that cleaning the gauze is absolutely vital so it doesn’t contaminate the clean oil. Pics attached of my before and after at 2 years/12k miles.

Good point - DPF would kill the option alone I think...

OP just appears to be looking for advice and may not know the nuances between different types of engine. OP - PD130 is old technology (think 20 years ago). While getting hold of one may be cheap to buy, if it even fits you’re going to find less performance, higher emissions, issues with MOT and whole other bunch of headaches. Best bet is to look at a direct replacement or potentially other versions of the same engine which may give you improved performance. There will be plenty of info around the forum; the engine won’t be limited to just the Superb, so maybe see what other options there are with the same variant of engine and go from there?

Check eBay sellers. There’s a guy I’ve bought both Wagner Tuning intercooler and now Bilstein B16 DCC both for less than anywhere else I found. This one is called skylinegtr34v - took a punt on the intercooler and came good B16s now sitting here ready to go on and they were delivered from ThyssenKrup Bilstein in Leicester so genuine items. Nothing to do with the guy aside from a happy customer.

No worries - no errors being needed. There was some sort of authorisation codes that needed updating/replacing on earlier updates that aren’t needed for the later ones so shouldn’t be a problem. Not sure on why navigation isn’t updating/available though. Maybe this was needed and never done on earlier updates etc. Get a 64gb usb stick, download the update, put it in and leave it. Keep checking after every few days’ driving to see the map which the latest is something like 2025.02.

Here you go: Link This has 308, 330 and 332. Take 308 and then one of the others (you can do either straight from 308).

You need 308 then you can go to 324,330,332 which are the the three common known ones. I’ve got an EU version. I’lll jump on the PC and link to it in a bit

You might be in luck @kaninja - I remembered some chap from India talking about his updating and wondered whether he'd had the files or links. Discovered a link to a page that has RW 308: Here Its another forum called Drive2.ru which I have seen reference to previously but have absolutely no idea whether the software works or not. Someone may chime in and say its brilliant and this guy's a genius, someone might flag its littered with bugs or ripped badly. I think at this stage its all you're likely to get without going to a dealer and asking for the latest software update. The thread I found it on is this one - page 2. Have a read as I've stopped after finding the link for you. Good luck!

You physically can’t. Pre-308 download won’t accept a post-308 update.

Yeah you may struggle with RW as the forum is UK-based and mainly Euro if not British members. 306 is perfectly fine. 276 or 278 was awful and 306 solved all the bugs so get yourself on that anyway. 308 is needed to go any further though - 324, 330 and 332; the latter being the latest one I’ve seen so far (and am on)

Lol - that’s the coding for MIB3 software/firmware updates

“Tested since memory clear”. I always see that meaning something went momentarily wrong but is fine. Slight signal outside range for whatever reason for a split second and back to normal. Just clear it and see if it ever comes back. You have it documented here if you ever want to check 👍🏼

According to @Bap33 ’s first reply on this post, i don’t think you’re meant to wind back the caliper so potentially you’ve got a broken seal…?

So for the sake of not typing out lots, you’re on 278, you intended to go to 306, you found 330. You need to go to 308 then you can jump to 330 from there. If that same folder has it, download that but if not let me know and I’ll link to an ftp site I have with them in 👍🏼

I’ll plug the laptop in tomorrow and take some pics 👍🏼

Ok pretty sure from previous posts banging on about it it’s Central Electrics. Long coding and one of the last couple of bytes is the model of Steering wheel. The names aren’t obvious so try and change it to another one, save it and see what the button does. I think from memory there are about 4 different options. Fingers crossed!

I have the same wheel (without perforations) and I accidentally messed it up by selecting a different type of steering wheel - effectively telling the car I had a different one to the one I actually have; and the heated button didn’t work but I didn’t realise for ages. It’s in the long coding but it might be a different module. Let me try and find out what I did and it’s something else for you to try