travs

Depends what the issue is - fuelling, spark, timing, fuel/air ratio (just guessing elements that the map would/could touch). For me, I’d get it off asap. There shouldn’t be a compromise. I have a RacingLine map, no issues. Plenty of other off the shelf maps are the same - otherwise better to take to a reputable tuner who know what they’re doing with these engines who will tune it individually on a rolling road or out on the road. Compared to the 528i - that might have better equipment depending on what trim and let’s face it bit better build quality etc. but it will be older, underpowered, heavier, more common, probably less legroom, definitely less boot space (bmw 560l, superb 625l hatchback/660l estate).

There’s always the option of walking away from a car with a bit of a history; if you’re looking to put money into one then starting from a decent vanilla point is always worth considering.

At this stage it’s just identifying variables and knocking them out until you get to the right one. Biggest one is the map. A techy person would be able to tell if there’s a way of reading the map file and identifying the origin. Otherwise, V5 for the previous owner I guess - can’t be a data breach if it’s on the V5 (which I think the last owner is?). Maybe the spark is retarded in Eco mode and it’s slightly out of kilter and a weak coil/plug is causing a rough idle? It’s all speculation until you start changing things. Quick google also brought up:

You’ll have paddles - pretty sure that’s standard as part of the DSG; if not the 280’s will. Would be good to find when the plugs and coils were changed. DSG is DQ250 - wet clutch 6-speed. Should be good with regular servicing which is oil changes every 40k miles? So should have had 3 by now if on 140k. Not sure on the rough idle being because of the map per se - if it was something that was there all the time then hopefully the previous owner wouldn’t have left it on there. Unless there’s a tolerance within the map that isn’t compensating for something that’s changing. If you’re not bothered about the map (always something you can sort in time) I’d ask them to reflash the ECU back to standard and see if that cures it. You then know for sure and can go from there…

Tell me about it! No-one seems to acknowledge the difference between the 3 engine codes/2 different engines. I spent so long trying to be sure the Bosch versions I finally got were right let alone trying to look at uprated versions with a cooler temp etc. Wait until you find out that your Haldex is Gen6 and not Gen5 like everyone thinks…(part number starts 5WA not 0CQ)

Its this post ^^^ You steered the conversation about @dx4100 's AAWireless but you didn't specify whether it was because you were implying a battery drain or whether its presence is interfering with systems. People replied with posts how to understand if its the former (ie ruling it out) and then you start questioning the direction of the conversation. Hope that clarifies.

@SkodaKing This is a place for help and advice. It doesn’t have to be accepted or agreed with, but that’s the price you pay for free help. From a million posts on here: Any electrical gremlins point to two things in the main: Battery on its way out the door Wheel speed sensor gone bad If the battery is in the window then no other battery behaviour or experience has any bearing tbh. Too many people have had to change their battery at anywhere between 5 and 9 years for there to be any bearing; it’s dependent on driving behaviour, climate, quality of battery, how long it’s sat with previous owners/car lot etc etc etc. First thing I’d do is change it rather than over-analyse it.

Plug the phone in (change settings to have the screen on for longer) and see if it’s still charging when you get out and lock the car etc

Section 3 is only the dangerous elements they’re required to put on there for H&S. As much as anything, for first responders to review in case they’re called to an incident. That’s why Carnauba isn’t on there - you can get that in foods. There’s quite a mix of hydrocarbons in that - and while they say kerosene is less than 10%, it could make quite a difference; especially with the same broad statements about Xylene, Naphthalene, Octane etc. You could contact Soft99 and see if they suggest anything. Otherwise, bottom line (if you haven’t already as this is way old) - I’d just get some more.

Autodoc also have SILFER8D7ES. There is a decode chart for each of the letters so I’m not sure what the difference is but you have to look up the Golf Mk8 R or Audi S3 8Y to get the equivalent DNF engine (otherwise it just assumes EA888.3 engine 🙄)

Great stuff - glad you got it all done successfully. I think making the primary user is a full reset and start again. Fingers crossed on that one!

And they’re on. And reminded how droney they are but that’s winter tread for you! Still got at least one season left in the summer tyres but these winters look very new still.

I think you're both on the same side of the false economy argument, but with Windybum making a fair point that a well run in diesel is probably a lot hardier than a higher and more finely-tuned petrol. Either way - deals to be had with Cyber Monday now kicking in too!

If it’s engine revs irrespective of gear then my money starts to go onto engine mount/Dogbone mount…

That download message is odd - not sure if that’s from the mega.nz site or what. Shouldn’t take long at all. 10mins for each update. Extract them to the root of the USB but just do one at a time just to avoid any issues. So 308 on first. Put the usb stick in the car. Press and hold menu button until it asks you to update software and reboot to engineering mode. It will reboot with a black screen and red text. It’s touchscreen (and some will be double tap) and should be intuitive. When 308 has finished, it’ll reboot back to normal mode. Then remove the stick, format it and copy on 332 and then follow the same process. I’d say you could be done within about half hour for everything.

Just realised FL full matrix are LED so this is not a bridge I need to die on

The ones in the link is a typical misunderstanding - understands my car is a DNFE engine but proceeds to suggest lots of ea888.3 parts. Having said that I think the plugs are the same between ea888.3 and ea888.4 so these should be correct.

It is out of date. It should be 332 now. It goes: 270,276,278,306,308,324,330,332. If I were you I’d download 308 and 332 and update them in turn. Everything is in the post I linked to.

You’re in luck: Read all of this and the files needed are in the links. Hope this helps!

Winter wheels coated with Carpro CQuartz and left to cure in the shed pending switchover this weekend. Not fussed about the job but anything that makes them easier to keep clean is good by me. Now to dig out time to polish the whole thing and get some on the paint.

And no MOTs - presume on age but still more for less. get a 280 and save yourself money 😁

This might be worth it then if plugs are on the radar - Black Friday Spark Plug deal Yeah my DSG isn't the buttery smoothest. Always had a gentle thump on 3rd to 4th manually (and sometimes 5th to 6th so seems common on the shaft) so I'll probably prompt for this at MOT in march in that case. Given there are absolutely no intentions to move this car on any time on the horizon, I'll benefit from all preventive maintenance so any hit to the wallet now is a reduction from a 4-figure repair bill later in the worst case.

Yeah it makes sense. Ironically it went on to state that there is no provision in the MOT manual for any external LED bulbs but agree that I'd happily replace with them too

Good to know - you can't go wrong with changing oil more frequently tbh. I've never bothered as we only do about 6/7k a year (March 2021 so over 4.5 years old and just below 30k miles) but given the servicing is done in Sept and the MOT in March, I'll start dialling in an oil change at MOT as well.

I was always the same originally - always seemed like the sensible thing to do but the research was that the lubrication of the copper grease could mean the torque you apply means more turning on the bolt causing greater stress on them.