travs

@SkodaKing This is a place for help and advice. It doesn’t have to be accepted or agreed with, but that’s the price you pay for free help. From a million posts on here: Any electrical gremlins point to two things in the main: Battery on its way out the door Wheel speed sensor gone bad If the battery is in the window then no other battery behaviour or experience has any bearing tbh. Too many people have had to change their battery at anywhere between 5 and 9 years for there to be any bearing; it’s dependent on driving behaviour, climate, quality of battery, how long it’s sat with previous owners/car lot etc etc etc. First thing I’d do is change it rather than over-analyse it.

Plug the phone in (change settings to have the screen on for longer) and see if it’s still charging when you get out and lock the car etc

Section 3 is only the dangerous elements they’re required to put on there for H&S. As much as anything, for first responders to review in case they’re called to an incident. That’s why Carnauba isn’t on there - you can get that in foods. There’s quite a mix of hydrocarbons in that - and while they say kerosene is less than 10%, it could make quite a difference; especially with the same broad statements about Xylene, Naphthalene, Octane etc. You could contact Soft99 and see if they suggest anything. Otherwise, bottom line (if you haven’t already as this is way old) - I’d just get some more.

Autodoc also have SILFER8D7ES. There is a decode chart for each of the letters so I’m not sure what the difference is but you have to look up the Golf Mk8 R or Audi S3 8Y to get the equivalent DNF engine (otherwise it just assumes EA888.3 engine 🙄)

Great stuff - glad you got it all done successfully. I think making the primary user is a full reset and start again. Fingers crossed on that one!

And they’re on. And reminded how droney they are but that’s winter tread for you! Still got at least one season left in the summer tyres but these winters look very new still.

I think you're both on the same side of the false economy argument, but with Windybum making a fair point that a well run in diesel is probably a lot hardier than a higher and more finely-tuned petrol. Either way - deals to be had with Cyber Monday now kicking in too!

If it’s engine revs irrespective of gear then my money starts to go onto engine mount/Dogbone mount…

That download message is odd - not sure if that’s from the mega.nz site or what. Shouldn’t take long at all. 10mins for each update. Extract them to the root of the USB but just do one at a time just to avoid any issues. So 308 on first. Put the usb stick in the car. Press and hold menu button until it asks you to update software and reboot to engineering mode. It will reboot with a black screen and red text. It’s touchscreen (and some will be double tap) and should be intuitive. When 308 has finished, it’ll reboot back to normal mode. Then remove the stick, format it and copy on 332 and then follow the same process. I’d say you could be done within about half hour for everything.

Just realised FL full matrix are LED so this is not a bridge I need to die on

The ones in the link is a typical misunderstanding - understands my car is a DNFE engine but proceeds to suggest lots of ea888.3 parts. Having said that I think the plugs are the same between ea888.3 and ea888.4 so these should be correct.

It is out of date. It should be 332 now. It goes: 270,276,278,306,308,324,330,332. If I were you I’d download 308 and 332 and update them in turn. Everything is in the post I linked to.

You’re in luck: Read all of this and the files needed are in the links. Hope this helps!

Winter wheels coated with Carpro CQuartz and left to cure in the shed pending switchover this weekend. Not fussed about the job but anything that makes them easier to keep clean is good by me. Now to dig out time to polish the whole thing and get some on the paint.

And no MOTs - presume on age but still more for less. get a 280 and save yourself money 😁

This might be worth it then if plugs are on the radar - Black Friday Spark Plug deal Yeah my DSG isn't the buttery smoothest. Always had a gentle thump on 3rd to 4th manually (and sometimes 5th to 6th so seems common on the shaft) so I'll probably prompt for this at MOT in march in that case. Given there are absolutely no intentions to move this car on any time on the horizon, I'll benefit from all preventive maintenance so any hit to the wallet now is a reduction from a 4-figure repair bill later in the worst case.

Yeah it makes sense. Ironically it went on to state that there is no provision in the MOT manual for any external LED bulbs but agree that I'd happily replace with them too

Good to know - you can't go wrong with changing oil more frequently tbh. I've never bothered as we only do about 6/7k a year (March 2021 so over 4.5 years old and just below 30k miles) but given the servicing is done in Sept and the MOT in March, I'll start dialling in an oil change at MOT as well.

I was always the same originally - always seemed like the sensible thing to do but the research was that the lubrication of the copper grease could mean the torque you apply means more turning on the bolt causing greater stress on them.

Forge do 11mm spacers which I used on the basis of JRRS’ experiences (as running 245 tyres at the mo). Got them through AwesomeGTI who also supplied extended bolts and I bought some longer locking bolts too. All fine even lowered on coilovers.

If it’s Columbus (no knobs, entirely touchscreen) it could be the proximity sensor is faulty hence the mystery swiping. Not sure if this would have the flicker effect.

The unknown variable is stage of tuning. RacingLine don’t seem to advise different oil grades post remap so opinion must be divided in general, but I still maintain it would ultimately be down to Revo if they have a strong opinion on it. You can always change it again whenever you wanted anyway.

Of course - jump in. No you're on MIB3 with that firmware number. I'm not up on the MIB2 numbering as its different. I think you can go straight to 308 from 276 and, yes by all means grab the above files; they'll work as long as you're EU (there are Korea (KR), Japan (JP) and Rest of the World (ROW) versions according to MIB-Helper). In case 308 doesn't go straight on - the below link has 306 in which might layer on, but try 308 first anyway. That's always been the doorway version from older to newer. Vegarz' mega link Process should be the same. Let us know how you get on.

Like this - sticking Xenon or LEDs in Halogen clusters is a fail. The whole web page just talks about this but doesn’t address putting an LED bulb in an existing Xenon headlight unit

Just as a light-source in an OE headlight/light? That’s a shame. I know the whole thing of putting them in halogen-style headlight clusters caused dazzling.