indars

+1 for CTEK- top quality always. I've 5A CTEK smart charger (with Yuasa logo on it)- works fine for ~15 years already.

+1 for 5W30 or 0W30 (and, as bonus, You'll get a little less oil consumption too).

Maybe somebody installed insert for engine dogbone? I did it for my TDI / manual- but (together with smoother gear change) I've got vibrations during acceleration too.

I've ~same problem ('2016, Climatronic, R1234yf refrigerant): after (near hour) of driving air flow gets totally reduced (and is not cold no more) from all vents- despite I hear that blower is working normally. Reset doesn't help, no errors on HVAC. Switching to manual mode doesn't help. Automatic air recirculation is turned off all the time. BUT When car is turned off for some short time, everything works as normal again. Replaced evap.radiator's T* sensor (assuming that radiator get's covered with ice and it's impossible to blow through it)- didn't helped. Friend dropped idea that air recirculation flap servomotor could be nasty...didn't replaced it yet, will wait for hot summer for "sure test". Idea came from his older Škoda, where symptoms were same as mine and this helped.

It's better to move this question to Octavia mk2 section.

OE pumps are always switchable (with wire and moving collar around impeller wheel). As aftermarket solutions (to be cheaper and/or avoid possible sticking of collar in future) non-switchable versions are available too- even from well-known brands. Guys in Russian car forums installs non-switchable versions and says that those doesn't affect warm-up time dramatically Have no personal experience with this but I would stick with switchable (like OE) version.

Sensor replaced (OE NTK 04L906262 to NTK 94144), all fine for month already. Cause of problem: cable's jacket was completely damaged, yellow wire almost broken and oxidized. "Thanks" to guys in factory...which placed cable directly on sharp edge of heat shield / under gearbox ropes. Re-routed cable above gearbox ropes and bent edge of heat shield.

Found same id for answer previous topic- but wasted time since id is already present in this topic 😀

Hi Pete. Yes, there're two O2 sensors. Marked is 2nd, analysing.

Thks! Am thinking about aftermarket NTK- since OE VAG sensor also is NTK.

In '2021 installed 5Q0121407M bottle for my Octy3 '2016 TDI. Version without silicate bag. Plenty of much cheaper good alternatives in shops- but should check them twice because web pictures for this item often are just for illustration purposes. And this is true that for newer Octy3 you can't even see this bag or take it out (it's built-in behind wall = double skinned). For early Octy3 it could be taken out with long pliers. Also can check there: 5Q0121407M | search for Škoda spare parts I suppose, newer ID now is 5Q0121407AA

Hello guys, Octy 3, 110kW CRMB TDI, year 11/2016, 180k km on clock, not tuned. Just got Check Engine light and error code P0136 "O2 sensor circuit, bank1-sensor2 malfunction active/static". Cleaned code but it returns after few starts. Car drives fine. --- From experience (since there could be various errors for sensor2 problems- heating circuit / high voltage / low voltage): >more possible that sensor is normally dead at such mileage? >more possible that problems with wiring under a car? I suppose, exactly this plug connection is under car. BR, Indars

Front crankshaft seal.

~same was said by our Škoda dealer: no worries about long interval, because (most probably) coolant pump will start to leak (or sliding ring get stuck) under 210k km- and at same time we'll do belt and rollers.

In Latvia, official dealers states 210k km (~131k miles) for Octy3 and Golf7 TDI belt and rollers. +coolant pump is recommended to be done at same time. +take a look on crankshaft seal (leak under 200k km is popular; my at 175k km is wet already). Without restrictions in time- just mileage. Same in Octy Service Manual, edition 10/2013 (don't know if there's update concerning belt interval)- if we talk about "Non-dust rich countries". Asked Škoda service manager- how old parts usually looks by fact? He said, belt and rollers can handle this interval without problems indeed.

I suppose, reset with "AC + face vents > hold both buttons until everything starts to blink" is already tried?

Does glow plugs continue to work on working engine too? Don't know- that's why it's interesting to know. 1st replacement of glow plugs on my friend's Golf7 (same engine family) was around 230k km. Other Octy3 I know (210k km) still have old original glow plugs. Am pointing to fact that at Andy's Octy at 185k km they still can be ok. Can be...

Typical latvian name, Maris (Māris). Are you from Latvia?

For final touch, black caps for rim bolts would be cool...

Brodit Holder for Apple iPhone 15 Pro Max | Brodit + clip is needed: Brodit ProClip Mount for Skoda Octavia III | Brodit Have Brodit system for years- super quality and nothing bounces. + Free access to both central air vents and emergency signal button. ProClip (specifically made for exact car) idea is super- various types of Brodit holders can be attached. Yes, it's not cheap- but it will be last phone holder you'll need.

'2016 2.0 TDI 110kW, 175k km. Regens happens every 4th day and continues 20min. 3/4 city drive, 50...70km each day average. In winter she regens more often. No fuel additives- just Neste ProDiesel.

Normally, VAG use API GL4/GL4+ SAE 75W transmission oil for transverse-mounted engine's manual gearbox. I.e., very liquid, without any digits after "W". It greatly helps in winter. But 75W-90 also will be ok. "Winter digit" is similar, as we see- but "summer digit" also pulls "winter digit" to this or that side of temperature. Same refers to engine oils too.

My friend installed Bosch glow plugs on his Golf 7 2.0 TDI (~~same engine)- all works fine.

Yes.

You can try another brand (just for check)- how many options are there for Your car? Can try INA, for example; but use their online catalogue. INA have one of the best catalogues (and their parts also is ok). Or Dayco. Usually timing kits differs just by scope or by parts (restrictions 'from...to...' car's VIN or 'from...to...' engine SN). p.s. INA doesn't have timing parts for this engine.