indars

Commercial VAG cars with EA288 engine (VW Crafter, for example) use non-switchable coolant pump from factory. Some aftermarket pump brands also offers them as alternative. Answer (to install it or no) is not obvious, based on what I found in various forums, hmm... Some guys reported pro-longed warm-up time. Some guys said- I don't care, almost no difference in warm-up, safety (against shroud sticking possibility) is more important. From '2013, this pump had plenty of improvements and updated ID numbers- I'd like to trust that now it's all ok with switchable pump. In next weeks will do 1st timing job for my TDI and will install proper/switchable pump. If not-switchable pump is installed, you should re-install valve from old pump (screw it into void bore of new pump and connect plug; hence, no errors should be expected). More info: The Mk3 Octavia TDI water pump thread - Page 8 - Skoda Octavia Mk3 (2013 - 2020) - BRISKODA If

If this is Pos.15 then it's included in scope of whole trim Pos.1 and is not sold separately. So, old item should be repaired or 3D printer should be involved.

As for my taste, Std suspension gives good balance between handling and comfort- and Sachs struts are not stiff! Installed front Sachs few years ago and it feels like 1:1 as Std- even with 225/45R17 tyres. Other options are TRW indeed (approx.same as Sachs since both brands are under ZF group), Monroe and black=Std Bilstein (they're not expensive). MagnetiMarelli? I suppose, they don't make their own struts and there will be something re-branded under MM logo. As for Sachs, quality had dropped down last years...my new Sachs (1 of them) got wet after few weeks. As for KYB, have heard various opinions, so not clear for me- are they good/bad/stiff/soft...

As for rear back plate replacement, bearing must be dismounted. As for front (bearing shouldn't be dismounted)- I placed pieces of plastic isolating tape between "bolt head/cover plate/bearing housing". Front cover plates are from aluminum and damage occurs exactly in bolt head area; isolating tape helps to divide all those types metals. Various electrochemical activity, you know...

My Octy have 288mm discs on front (PR code 1ZE) and strut diameter is 50mm. Nothing has been modified.

Why to replace working battery? Anyway, go for AGM- if will decide to replace it.

207k km '2016 Octy here, with beam rear axle: Rear shocks/springs/upper supports still original. Front springs replaced at 123k km (one was broken; OE>Lesjofors now). Front shocks replaced at 175k km (one was leaking; OE>Sachs now). Top supports was ok, left old/OE ones. To say more, Sachs quality is not like it was time before...one of new Sachs is wet all the time.

Am adding MIN-MAX level (0.3L) each year and for me those are 22'000km. So, up to 0.2L/1000km seems a lot.

IF this is coolant thermostat housing, there should be clips. Part No. 1J0121142 (at least, for my 11/2016 110kW 2.0L TDI)

How to identify loud bearing which have no movement, rotates +/- free and doesn't change sound to LEFT/RIGHT sharp turns: rotate wheel and hold suspension spring in same time. There should be zero vibrations on hand. Zero=absolutely nothing. Slightest vibrato will indicate broken bearing. Been there few days ago. Bearing replaced, all cool now. Old bearing (OE item, installed under warranty at Škoda dealer workshop) lasted only 104'300km.

My TDI is approaching 210k km and then belt/pump/rollers will be replaced for 1st time.

Replaced all four on my '2016 Octy 3 'at 194k km last week (error was on 3d expensive plug, with press.sensor). All unscrewed nice, on hot engine, without soaking in penetrating fluid (torque wrench doesn't clicked even on 20Nm). From factory, 3 were Bosch and 1 was Beru. There was doubt about tightening but ended-up with factory recommendation 17Nm (simple plug) and 12Nm (press.sensor plug) / dry. All four new are Beru now and they recommend use ceramic grease and 15...20Nm for both types of those M10x1 plugs. -- How correctly dismantle 3d electrical plug without risk to damage it? This question remains open. I opened fixing plastic tabs with 2 hooks.

Just did this on my 6-speed manual box. Drained/filled exactly 2.2L, thks for help from this topic. Filled with Ravenol MTF-3 SAE 75W, with help of big syringe (just be sure to get normal one, because cheap metallic syringes leaks through all gaps).

Glad we sorted it. That's why Pos.5 ('simple' glow plugs) in catalogue doesn't indicate quantity. Because "X" can be "3" or "4" (all similar, 'simple' plugs).

Bro's can look at HTHS values for ACEA C5 (0W20 508.00/509.00) and ACEA C3 (0...5W30 504.00/507.00) oils. This will drop idea what (could) be better for engine protection and what- for fuel economy.

Strange that all plugs for wiring harness are similar...does your car matches one of criteria for Pos.6 PR code? 7MM or 7MJ

Looks not normal, Catalogue shows 3 this and 1 that glow plugs for all TDI:

Sad to say, am not advanced in AC systems + have no diagnostic tools for them > can't comment those values.

0W8 thks! Before writing I tried to find lowest "second No.", as example- but You went further hehe. 20W... is not really suitable for Latvian climate since we often got -5...-20*C in winters. But for tuned/race/hot climate those oils xxx W50...60 is must have- taking in mind construction of engine and execution of exhaust gas treatment system (those type of oil almost never have manufacturers approvals and we don't want to kill Pumpe-Duese / GDI / DPF tuned engine with conventional oil, chosen just by viscosity)

Funny, how our preferences has been changed... 20+ years ago 5...10W40 was assumed as thin oil because all used thick 15W40 With upcoming popularity of 0...5W30 those were assumed as thin oils. Now we call 0...5W30 thick oils because thin oils now are 0W12...20 ___ ACEA C5 is typical for 0W20 508.00/509.00 oils and this leads to HTHS viscosity ≥ 2.6 and < 2.9 mPa.s ACEA C3 is typical for 0...5W30 504.00/507.00 oils and this leads to HTHS viscosity ≥ 3.5 mPa.s + thin oils (may) have higher Noack volatility, which (can) lead to higher oil consumption. ___ So, if it's totally not forbidden by VAG to use 504.00/507.00 oil instead of 508.00/509.00, for total engine protection (with loss of 1 glass of fuel per each 100km) I would stick with ACEA C3 504.00/507.00 oil. In Europe's climate / in winter anything with 0...5 before "W" is absolutely fine and far enough. And anything with 30...40 after "W" will be even better in summer/high load/traffic jam etc when oil is >100*C constantly (instead of normal 90...95*C).

RAVENOL VMP SAE 5W-30 True PAO oil, 5W30, ACEA C3 and with Audi Motorsport "accept" in bonus hehe. And with official VAG accept 50400/50700 +quote from internet: ACEA C3 and C5 oils both fall under the "mid-SAPS" category, meaning they have a reduced level of ash content compared to conventional oils. However, C5 oils are designed for more fuel economy and have a lower HTHS (High-Temperature/High-Shear) viscosity compared to C3 oils. This translates to thinner oil under pressure, which can improve fuel economy but might require more careful consideration in certain high-performance engines.

...and you're on safe side anyway because officially it's not forbidden from VAG to use 504.00/507.00 oil instead of 508.00

I cannot guarantee it and have no experience since always used 504.00/507.00 5W30 oil.But it's normal that turning for "waterly-econo-oils" no "normal ones" reduce oil consumption. Plenty info about this can be found in Japanese cars forums (as those cars often reccomends 0w20 or smth like that).

Bad bearing could be heard from lower speeds (from 70 km/h and sound changes with rise of speed). +twisting of steering wheel (=loading of both bearings) can help catch the guilty one. If it's bearing at all. Pity, but it's "normal" for Octy mk3 front bearings to work just 100k...160k km, plenty of warranty cases.