indars

If green item is some sensor- maybe it's seal ring is leaking or sensor have crack.

Here's PR codes from my old Fabia- also BBZ engine, also GRY gearbox. Even if some is not in your car- at least, there's quick description. PR codes.pdf

Data from fuel flap is just for pressures but indicated wheel sizes gives approx.idea what's permissible. Main idea there is "wheel with X size must have Y bar". Exact list of OE tyre/rim/car combinations is in service manual. Example? My Fabia mk1 had pressures on fuel flap for R13 wheels too. But (due to exact engine power and front brake size) min was R14- and R13 can be installed only on rear (drum brakes), haha. --------- What you see on fuel flap (or B-pillar) of any car: this model CAN have those wheels but it's not said that for exact car all wheels can be installed.

Just for matching of new filter / in general. In case if there was crap aftermarket brand installed- you'll install same crap again.

I advise to finish with sound proofing and then take decision. If properly done, car will be mega-quiet. Know this when my father sound-proofed old Hyundai i30 - it got more silent than Audi, hehe. (...)but on their catalog it's mentioned for standard and sport suspension, not for the one with increased height(...) How shock absorbers affects ride height? Maybe we're talking about choices between Std, Sport and Rough Roads (??) absorbers? If such exist... Interesting, what's in RRP concerning suspension... softer absorbers? HD absorbers? Longer springs? Distancers between springs and upper mounts?

Not a direct answer but my experience: am using folding mirrors from 05/2017 all the year since Octy was new- no problems. Am not using any cleaner, de-frosting spray or silicone. Just grab away snow or ice in gap between mirror and door front frame. 0...-10*C in Latvia's winter in general, rare -15...-20*C, very rare below -20*C.

If bouncing on front wing (by hands) tells nothing, if rods of shock absorbers are not leaking, if it's not concerned with upper mounts or squeaking control arm bushes... Maybe shock tester can help? Here you'll get print-out about condition of shock absorbers:

+1 There's VAG service info for squeaking of control arm large bushes: void parts can be lubricated with rubber-friendly grease (same one as used for guide pins of TRW brakes).

Known video 😉 My fan didn't have any screws and (as far as remember- but not sure) no need to dismantle smallair pipe. It's a bit hard to do this.

Engine code CRMB = just like my, from 11/2016. Engine air filter... from Knecht/Mahle it's LX3502 (Std) or LX3503 (for cold climate zones). Am using last one, despite Latvia isn't in cold climate zone. This one have additional foam which helps against big debris. And against snow, hehe. Other good brands are Mann, Bosch, Hengst. For my car I wouldn't go lower than Bosch- in Latvia it's cheapest from this list. Mann is most expensive here. ---- Heater issue... mine started to blow weakly / sometimes not blowing at all / sometimes blowed just in highest rpm / sometimes blower got noisy- and then silent again. Replaced blower last year- cheapest Thermotec instead of original Valeo. From factory there can be Valeo or Denso blower. Carbon brushes are weak point for those blowers.

Given OE No.is correct for given Knecht/Mahle No. At least, for mk3 Octy 2.0TDI 110kW and 1.6TDI am using this Knecht No.

Question was: info (info. what info?) about tyres from factory. It's a very general question. From PR codes you can get just a size, speed an load rating. And from "whatever the manufacturer could get..."- sad, but it's almost true. My new mk1 Fabia was with Matador cheap summer tyres from factory.

195/55 is not original size for mk1 Fabia R15 rims. Too fat. Speedo, acceleration, drive feel and look will be wrong. But comfort will be better and bit' more protection to damages- too. 195/50 or 185/55 R15 are correct sizes. Had both of them on my Furby and in the end prefered 195/50. Cheaper, better looking and super drive feel. Brands for new tyres? Every new tyre will be quiter and economical than brand-named old one with just a 3mm protector grooves. Good middle brande is Hankook. Good cheap brand is Sailun. Just idea. Good expensive top-brands- we all know them. Fuel efficiency, noise, rain rating etc can be found in web for each tyre. Plus various tests results in various countries.

7zap, etka and similar catalogues are general ones which doesn't show configuration of exact car.

Škoda doesn't make own filters so any of well-known brands (as stated above) will be ok or better (maybe better- because VAG is not testing all filters on market). For example, Octy 3 diesel engine oil filter OE is Hengst, top-brand. But Mahle/Knecht oil filter is better. Just take a look on patended central sealing.

+1 for Mahle/Knecht. As for diesel mk3 Octy, OE engine oil filter was Hengst- but Mahle/Knecht have best central sealing.

With my dynamic (but not sporty) driving style, replaced front original discs/pads on 125k km and rear on 143k km. To be honest, both front and rear could last extra few months before reaching min dimensions- but I dislike when dust rubber of brake piston hangs out too much. Same was on my previous car Mk1 Fabia, where every front brake set lasted at least 100k km (but with rears drums it's another story).

As per old-school, kerosene is one of the best penetrators. But should give time to suck in threads.

If lights are adjusted properly, there's nothing you can do- just drop your look to roadside for few sec til cars changes with each other- to avoid blinding. As for others- don't argue with idiots, people will not recognize difference between you. If you'll lower lights with screwing, in garage (or by knob in panel, for halogen type), you will see nothing on the straight level road. But others will be happy 😉

Yep, 60k km for Longlife 3-contact NGK (on my Mk1 Fabia 1.4) and 90k km for Iridium (on my sister's Yaris Mk3 1.33). Normal manufacturer intervals, according how looked/worked old spark plugs, when I replaced them. But my childhood USSR sh...ty mopeds and bikes with their spark plugs- it's another story, ahaha.

My TDI still have original Varta AGM. 150'000km / 6.5 years. All fine, StartStop disabled.

If this ^ makes absolute minimum 26'000km per year- then diesel without doubt. 50km one way: in destination diesel will be always warmed up, no worries. I have 22km drive one way / through city / each working day; in winter I got normal oil temp.90-93*C exactly at destination.

1,6TDI and ...1,4TSI use one type of DSG. 2,0TDI and 1,8...2,0TSI use another type of DSG. Those are most reliable, mentioned for more powerful engines. Construction of both DSG's are completely different.

More fuel during regens...yes, but how much more till we start to feel it with our money? During active regen, consumption in idle is 0,8L/H which quite fast drops to 0,6L/H till regen ends (vs minimal consumption 0,5L/H when not regenerating). Don't think that it's too much in cut of year or even month. It takes 20min each week per each active regen (or bit' more often in winter). But this depends on many factors- how often this happens. I have 3/4 city and 1/4 highway drives. Ok, sometimes 50/50.

Don't think that vulcanized & pressed-in bush can simply "come out". Outer metal casing still sits normally in control arm. Maybe it's just a strip of rubber (nearest to outer edge) which crawled out? It's not main meat of rubber which holds the load. But this can indicate beginning of end of bush indeed. Photo below, blue marking. If there's no extra movement with pry bar then main vulcanized part of rubber should be plusminus ok. As per noise, those bushes squeaks and (if it bothers driver too much) there's Technical Bulletin about greasing of void places of bush. 150'000 km / 6,5 years on nasty Latvian roads: my bushes still are ok and with no reason I don't even look at them. And yes, they squeaks when driving on speed bumps.