indars

Looks not ok. My '2016 2.0TDI 110kw is getting 47...35 UK mpg (6...8 L/100km) in the city. Disabled start-stop, manual gearbox, 225mm wide tyres, Auto Clima always on. On higway drive is steady 64 mpg (4.4 L/100km)

Old parts are in suspicious good condition- looks like previous owner in Germany have replaced something under 210k km. Tensioner is OE Litens, rollers- OE INA, pump- OE INA, belt is aftermarket Conti. Looks like usual scenario: pump problem appeared far under 210km and pump + belt were replaced.

Yup, "on the eye" rear shield looks massive- should be steel.

In case if AC is not cooling air (but rest works), forum members are already helping with ideas... In case, if blower is not working, that's how it was on my 11/2016 Octy (Climatronic with Valeo items; there's version with Denso items too): cabin blower turned off from time to time, no reaction to speed change, absurd reaction to speed change, sometimes blower was loud. Same was with AC on or off, same in Auto or Manual mode. And again- everything started to work fine, but problems came back after time. Replaced blower and it sorted problems. I took cheapest Thermotec blower (blower control module was included in scope) and for 1 year it still works ok. Replacement can take ~10min (for advanced hands) and minimum-to-no tools are required. Cause of problem is hiding in weak construction of brushes. At least, for Valeo blower it's for sure.

ahaha, my bad. That's what I've got when start dig into forums in middle of busy working day. For my Octy, front/left bearing was replaced at 100k km under warranty ("OE bearing, updated version, brand X"- as per dealer). And front/right was replaced by myself at 142k km (FAG).

Virtually, everywhere- even on flat surfaces (!!) rust bubbles starts to appear. Looks like in factory they're painting dirty or rusty metal- and rust starts from "under-the-paint". Based on my car and what I saw in forums and on streets: for liftback take a look at rear wing-bumper edge. 99% that rust is present. Even after 5 years. Tolerances are too tight, parking backwards on curb pulls bumper <-> by stiff mudflaps (if installed) - and bumper tears paint off from wing's edge- and here we go... But for Combi is not typical place- bumper is different. I can imagine that after repair it's wise to glue transparent tape around this edge (and only then install bumper)- to "separate" bumper from wing. Trunk lid horizontal edge (where license plate lights sits), rear wheel arches. For some Octies saw a lot of rust around door handles. Underbody? Even after 7 salty Latvian winters all looks ok. Ok, exhaust clamp nuts/bolts are totally rusted.

My friend just replaced pump/belt/rollers/front seal in local garage. Known for a long time and reliable mechanic done this. 125 EUR for job. Mk3 Octy 1.6TDI.

For front brake shields (made of aluminum) I'm placing isolating tape hub carrier-shield and shield-screw's head... ...to avoid electro-chemical corrosion. Otherwise shields last just few years and rusts exactly in those places. But rear shields are made of steel? Or still aluminum?

...unless we're talking about front. Client didn't mentioned- front or back. But I believe that even rear bearing will came-off from spindle by hand.

To avoid sticking sleeve problems, some are installing aftermarket pumps, which has no el-magnetic valve and has no sleeve. Even top-manufacturers has this type (non-switchable or non-regulated) pumps in their assortment. How warm-up time will be affected? Guys in RU forums says, it's nonsense and everything works ok. But I want to trust that quality of pumps is much better now and we can normally install correct/switchable/regulated pump again. INA, for example. OE pump also is INA. Most of aftermarket water pump-belt-roller's kits includes INA pump.

2q0121321a new type cover (but can use old cover on new tank) 5q0121407m new type tank/without bag/without cover That's what I installed in my '2016 2.0TDI. Of course, when looking at some aftermarket tanks (costs virtually nothing), cross-references from OE No. can lead to tank with bag. Or photos are wrong. Given OE No. are safe No. because I purchased them (OE stuff) time ago and they were as described.

There were 2 versions of tanks with bags. For older it's possible to get bag out with long pliers = you can see bag through coolant fill bore. For newer (my '2016 Octy had this version) it's not possible because bag is behind additional wall and you can't even see it.

Correct (and better that G13) coolant for topping-up is G12++ or G12evo. It can be mixed with old G13

Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts

Yes!

If car is out of warranty, I would stick with any officially approved old-school 504.00/507.00 oil. It's cheaper and will burn less (just my idea; maybe I'm wrong) than 504.00/507.00 5W30 or 0W30 oil. Those modern watery 0W12...20 oils are just for 1 glass fuel economy and I can imagine that you'll need to top-up it more frequently.

Yes, they don't last forever. But, as example: my friend's old Seat Exeo 2.0TDI still is running fine with original DPF and car have more that 300k km on clock. And this DPF have never been dismantled and cleaned/burned in workshop. But he is using only one of the best fuel we can get here in Latvia- Neste ProDiesel.

My friend in next days will replace cambelt & rest concerned stuff on his '2013 Mk3 Octy 1.6 TDI / after 210k km (1st time replacement). I asked him to show me old parts later, just for interest- since interval looks very long indeed. Latvian Skoda dealer said that (based on their experience) cambelt and rollers can held this interval normally. But it's more possible that coolant pump will start to leak faster- and at same time people is replacing cambelt and rollers too. To avoid twice job.

For TDI Octy, original service manual states 210k km cambelt interval for non-dust rich countries / without any revelation to years. Just got quote from official Skoda dealer in Latvia: 717 EUR (various screws, coolant pump, cambelt kit with rollers, G12Evo coolant, job). At same time should look if front crankshaft seal is not leaking; mine started to get wet only at 160k km.

This slow "worr, worr, worr" sound at right wheel is from oil-vacuum pump and it's absolutely normal. More louder when cold, more silent when hot- but doesn't go away completely. My '2016 TDI Octy sounds same since was new (now 160k km on clock) and my workmates' few new VW Crafters sounds the same. There're some posts and YouTube videos about this too.

Was lucky that all front bearings on Fabia 1 and Octavia 3 "sounded in test like it should be" when bearing's end was near. I mean, steering wheel to left > noise gets louder > right bearing dead. And opposite action for left bearing test.

Had replaced rear discs/pads on my Mk3 non-VRS Octy 2.0TDI: pistons went-in when turning clockwise / both sides. But this is not sure for any VAG car. For example, new VW Crafter's pistons should be turned clockwise on right side and anticlockwise on left side.

It's just a spare wheel which, hopefully, will not needed for entire life. If brake size allows, maybe get cheap steel disc with 205/55R16 tyre? This will not "lift up" floor for sure.