indars

On my 11/2016 Octy after 147k km all original shocks still are dry. Looks ok, taking in mind "nice" Latvian roads.

Hello guys, What's sphere size for original wheel bolt WHT001812 M14x1.5x27 ? Found aftermarket rims and those are "for R13 sphere bolts". But there also exists R12 and R14 sphere bolts for some cars/rims. I suppose, original also is R13 as (...) "most common for mid-size cars" (...) Indars 001812 WHT001812

Latest revision is 06K103485D With yellow thread, without "Advised oil brand". Hope, will be more resistable against leaks.

Good morning! Octy Mk3, 11/2016, 125'000km, 2.0TDI CRMB 110kW not tuned, manual gearbox, without Keyless. 2 error codes are found with XTOOL VAG401 code reader: 17-Instruments / Malfunction B104B31 Key, no signal. Passive/ abiogenesis 19-CAN Gateway / Malfunction U120200 Bus defect CAN- diagnostics. Passive / abiogenesis Those codes appears from time to time even after erasing. No other codes appear. Car works fine, doors opens/closes, immobilizer works, key battery ok (and no warnings about key battery replacement). Should I worry about those codes? Google search for exact codes says almost nothing. From what I've found, 1st code is concerned with problems with immobilizer/key synchronizing/etc.- but my works fine. BR, Indars

Went silica-bagless yesterday. Original tank was with G in the end and bag was inside walls (=impossible to take it out from fill hole). After 4 years and 100k km bag looks in good condition.

My CRMB's vacuum-oil pump still is acceptably, haha, loud. Warranty ended this Monday. For silica bag issue ordered new tank with M in the end of ID (without silica bag). DPF regens? It's ok and needed. My lady is doing this ~once a week (200-300km, mostly city drive). If we want no regens...here's my dad's Subaru Outback '2015. Only highway use, CVT transmission. Never recognized active regen. And guess what? He finally got DPF warning symbol in dashboard and was pushed to drive like hell to clear it. (if don't want to drive like hell to get high rpm's- then should go to manual mode of CVT and click some low gear). So, VAG's solution with frequent active regens looks ok for me.

Here in Latvia my Octy Mk3 2.0TDI 110kW EU6 (11/2016 / first reg.05/2017, 100'700km on clock) has been re-programmed under campaign "23AX Engine Control Unit TPI xxx / Criteria 02". More than week gone- no change in performance/fuel efficiency/active regeneration frequency etc. Dealer just said that this campaign is for (...) older cars and refers to some German laws / something changed in emission control algorithm (...)

In photo on the left- that one with nice wheel tilt.

Not sure if oil pump belt have official interval of replacement :-/

How much for drift car?

Both. Because they worn out (almost) equally. But since it's easy job and not concerned with wheel alignment etc after replacement- no problem to replace just broken one.

Normal sound for those TDI engines- from oil/vacuum pump. VAG call this "cosmetic audio defect". My '2016 car do this since new and our company new VW Crafters (all) sounds same. Sound is from right front wheel side, louder when cold, more silent when warm. +Already discussed in Briskoda ;-)

Bearing just changed under warranty. Local dealer advised that "this is new design/different ID" :-D Let's see...

Alutec / Rial X10 Metal Grey 17x7, ET~47 225/45 tyres Picture from drive2.ru

'2016 2.0L TDI: had squeak noise (short, silent "iiik, iiik"- but not whistle) when accelerating. Especially, on 3d gear (manual box), at 2000-2250 rpm. Cleaned and re-greased engine bonnet 4 rubber bumpers, sealing edges, foam rubber (where bonnet gas springs goes in) and lock mechanism > noise is gone. + Checked for loose parts in engine bay- everything was tight.

Check filter housing with hand if water sensor is present. If you're 100% sure that 5Q0127177 is correct ID, then Mann cross ref.for this is PU 8028 indeed. My engine is CRMB and there's no water sensor.

It doesn't really matter if filter is correct in general. Aftermarket filter can have different lenght (even if it's correct) from OE. Of course, diameters should be same. To be sure for aftermarket filter match, better is to search from it's exact website- by OE filter cross reference or by car. General search in part shop website and Google can lead to mistakes. Mann have one of the best filter catalogue I've seen. Same does it's daughter brand- cheaper Filtron. But my pick for filters are Knecht/Mahle or Bosch.

Yes, FAG is my No.1 choice for bearings, too. BTW, on Fabia Mk1 OE front bearings (FAG) lasted 177k...220k km- but those were Gen2 bearings.

Here's 4 years / 99k km "old" front splash guard. Corrosion at bolt's bores. Replaced it yesterday with same OE aluminum new crap.

^ this is how our company mechanics checks bearings in case of doubt, too. My Octy have 99200km after 4 years- and at the moment have suspicion on front/left bearing. And warranty ends after 1 month. Any idea which bearings are from factory? FAG, like it was for Fabia or some another brand?

LHD Octy, Std mechanical seats, textile covering. I'm 174cm very thin guy and Octy is 1st car driven where back hurts after 5min of drive. Total lowering of seat base (when front part is much higher in relation to back part) and rise-up of backseat helped a bit'. Think, that's because steering wheel is offset and there's not enough lumbar support for thin drivers (I'm boucing left/right). Regulator (small lever on seatback side) helps a little- my back just falls deeper into seat and bents more- but still no normal support to sides.

This old noise have different notes and now it looks sorted indeeded.

My 11/2016 2.0TDI 110kW makes 100% exact 1st noise since new. Louder when cold, almost quiet when hot. Our companys' brand new few VW Crafters makes exactly same noise.