RichardatWakefield

Supplied by local Skoda dealer, original touch-in kit for Nature Green metallic, a dark green seen on Mk1 Fabias and Octavias. Pack says expiry date 08/2011, but likely still usable. Collect from Wakefield, close to M62 jn30. Contains the green paint, plus a lacquer. Little used

Hi George, Not been on here for ages, hope everyone's well. Glad to hear you're still cycling, I use my e-assist folder maybe once a week, the used blue Leaf is parked up, just the occasional groceries trip, having to trickle charge its 12v battery roughly weekly, as the system to trickle charge from the big traction battery is a known weak point of these cars when they're parked up. Also pleased to hear you'll be switching to an e-Corsa, have seen a bronze one at Lymm services before the lockdown, driver heading to Shetland, starting a UK tour of dealers, a familiarisation exercise, the driver told me. It was remarkably similar in size, and colour, to my henna red Mk1 Astra diesel from way back when. We've also had one of the Peugeot equivalents at a Yorkshire EV Club meet, a dealer demo all stickered up! Best wishes, keep safe, keep busy, I'm gradually repainting all my garden fences, run out of green for the wood, but have plenty cream for the concrete posts and so-called "mud boards". Richard

Hi ca6, That's an interesting and unexpected outcome, I hope the cure lasts! Did you locate & install replacement "o" rings, or do a glued repair? I'm working from memory, as part-exed the Roomy for a used 30kWh Leaf in June, after 5.75years, it was then 12yrs old, someone got an auction bargain, it was very well maintained, should be capable of around 200k more miles if they do the necessary servicing. (1.9tdi PD engine).

Hi ca6, What age is your Roomie? If it's an older car, suggest you prise back the rubber gaiter which feeds wires & a pipe to the hatch, from memory this is easiest done at the "hatch" end, check for split insulations, broken wires. And, from memory, the number-plate bulbs are festoon (double enders), twist each back & forth, helps improve the contact. And remove each to check filament. HTH.

Aha, great sleuthing, Wino! Possible broken wire to numberplate lights in gaiter, pops that fuse, affects LH rear lamps, which, as BryanB points out, are body-mounted!! Neat!

Hi Deaglan1, Have a look in the corrugated rubber gaiter which bridges across from body to tailgate at top left, if you can peel back the rubber, you may well find some wires either broken, or whose insulation has split (it also carries the feed pipe to the rear wash/wipe), this is common in similar age Roomsters, and leads to random hatch lighting or locking faults, as is bother from broken stuff in the driver's door gaiter. Generally the hatch and drivers door have been opened/closed the most times, wires eventually fail. On my 2007, 57plate Roomster, now sold, the hatch failed in c2016, driver's door a year later. A good small local garage can probably do you a temp solder and tape repair. My suggestion, if this is the problem, is obtain the excellent ready-made hatch wiring repair kit from SENCOM in Germany, it has all the wires in brand new gaiter, crimp connectors for all wires, and pipe with push-fit connectors, plus colour code chart for the wires. The SENCOM part reference numbers are documented somewhere in here! It was about £50 inc P&P. If/when the driver, or passenger door gaiter wiring fails, from my experience, get the exact loom kit match to your reg and trim spec, from your Skoda dealer, as SENCOM sent one that had too few wires. Skoda loom was about £100, plus labour to fit by my small local garage. HTH. Richard Now driving loan Kia Picanto, while my used Nissan Leaf has it's OSR corner repaired after a suspected parcels van reversed past it, ouch!

Evening all, well George may have changed his user name (again), but I've not changed mine.... HOWEVER, the Ocean Blue Roomster has now gone, and been replaced by........a Nissan Leaf!! It's the old shape, but a later-build (2016) with the bigger 30kWh battery (usable capacity is, I gather, 27kWh). And it's in......you guessed it, blue! I also own and ride a hybrid folding bike (hybrid of me pedalling, it assisting electrically). Been looking into BEV's for several years, tried three models, namely Renault Zoe, the Peugeot I-On (clone of Mitsubishi I-Miev and sister to Citroen C-Zero), and Mk1 Leaf. As an overall package, the Leaf best fits my needs, though I preferred the overall basic honesty of the I-on (like a modern rendition of a 2CV) and the simpler controls of the Zoe. The Leaf handbook is WAAY too complex, reminiscent of layout of a Haynes, and dashboard electronic complexity utterly perplexing. So for now, I'm Skoda-less, but I shall follow this excellent Forum, and likely stick with Freedom membership. I'd quite like to try an e-Citigo. Guess I'll be migrating to the "Non-Skoda Projects" department. Guess I'd better update my Profile too. And put my very-little-use winters on steelies into the FOR SALE section, possibly also a pair of Aero bars to fit Roomster roofrails. And a few other bits. Have fun. Richard.

Aha, thanks George, I missed that, oops!

As I read it, it's unclear whether the OP wants both front fogs on in reverse gear, or perhaps both rear fogs...? Do some markets have double rear red fogs? I often put my single rear foglight on, and activate hazards, when reversing off a lit street down a dark, uneven, unlit access alley to a friend's in Derbyshire. I recall reading that EU regs restricted us to one rear fog after a particular year; I recall adding 2 rear red fogs to a Citroen Dyane 6, and a Maxi 1750. Richard.

My Roomster's varioflex seats don't have that, so just a guess here, does the car have heated rear seats??? Connectors for that?? Your Owner's Handbook might help? (assuming this info is not now all online or hidden in an "app"......) HTH Richard, .

Hi Mavawreck, Yes, as Robjohn says, sounds like a major leakage of juice somewhere. Stuff I've become aware of, which cause slow drain, are 1) The glovebox light, the switch is poor, many stay on when you shut the lid. Solution, remove the bulb and park it in the gearlever gaiter. When I took the bulb out, it shorted and popped its fuse, luckily I have assorted spares, and the handbook told me which to replace. Under RHS of dash, pull-down panel gives access. 2) The hatchback/boot courtesy lamp switch is quite fussy, I've had the hatch latch adjusted, also adjusted it myself, as, on mine, the latch doesn't always engage without a decent slam, as well as doing this I always now peer in down the gap betwixt parcel shelf and trim to ensure the light has gone out. 3) I've had alternator diodes fail years ago, on Citroen Dyane and diesel Rover Maestro, on the latter, I went out to the car in the dark to retrieve something, found the red battery warning light on faintly, my regular garage diagnosed it. Not sure how quickly that might drain your battery, but as yours is an early Roomster (what mileage?) that might be a possibility, good auto electrician would diagnose for you. Not had this on the Roomster, or my earlier (04) Fabia 1.4 tdi. The tiny red light telling people the alarm/immobiliser are on, uses very little at all. Wondering whether the MOT people inadvertantly disturbed something? Good luck fixing it! Richard.

I've used DMK Wakefield branch for an aircon refresh, and a door wiring loom and door mirrors switch, good service and reasonable prices. I use a small local-to-me garage for my servicing and repairs, I have no new car buying experience as always buy at 3--6yrs old, let someone else take the huge initial depreciation! To N.Boonham:- There's a regular ad in the YP's motoring section, for an independent garage in Killinghall, Harrogate, I have no experience of them, but their ad reads well, Brookroyd Garage, Specialists in Skoda, yesterday's YP listed 13 used Skodas for sale, plus one Citroen. Might be worth a phone call to see if they could source what you are seeking, perhaps an almost-new option worth considering? Says they service & MOT all makes, fair rates, free local collection & delivery, or courtesy car. www.brookroydgarage.co.uk Tel 01423 561782. As I said, I have no connection with them, or experience of them; may consider them when I come to sell my Roomster. Which Skoda model and spec are you searching for? As bigjohn says, the recently-introduced World Light Vehicle Testing Protocol has caused big headaches for the manufacturers, it appears they have to test and certify for emissions, every possible combination of options that will affect emissions for each model, so that'll include engines, transmissions, roof-rails, towbars, wheels, tyres, perhaps standard vs Scout trims, ride height (4x4 Octavia estate vs standard). Oh, and I read that Skoda are short of production/assembly capacity at their plants. BTW, DMK Leeds hosted the Skoda Owners Club UK AGM last year, I attended, having joined at the 2018 Skodafest (and I live about 7 miles away!) they looked after us well, and I recall reading later in the Club's mag that several members did deals on cars that day, there was an incentive voucher in our pack. And when I had my Fabia, pre Sept 2013, a very helpful service receptionist at DMK Leeds assisted me with a central locking issue, simply by suggesting I try my spare key! It worked! I recall that I subsequently got the key's battery replaced at a car spares shop nearby. Hope That Helps! Do let us know the outcome you (hopefully) achieve, Richard

Good luck with this, heard of it happening to an (ex) Roomster 1.6tdi CR owner, namely injector leaking into sump, they traded it in for a 1.2tsi Yeti. What is the tandem pump? Is that what I think of as the servo vacuum pump? What is its tandem function? Does it act also as a low-pressure fuel pump to raise fuel from the tank and supply the Electronic Unit Injectors? Richard.

Hello and welcome, Cakewalk, I'm Stanley nr Waky. Richard.

Hi R15, I tried various "plus 110", "plus 130" H7 bulbs, barely any better than the abysmal basics. So got London Colour HID kit via web, 4300 kelvin colour temperature, had my local small indy garageman fit them, huge transformation in light output. Are supposedly illegal, as Ken says, but mine have gone through about 4 yrs MOT tests no bother, despite no headlight wash-wipe and no auto adjust. Keep the lights, mirrors, glazing clean, job done! The HIDs take about 5 seconds to get up to full output, and do interfere slightly with the radio, especially in the Pennines where signal is very variable strength, but WAAAY better frontwards illumination. Not a cheap thing, but worthwhile if you plan to keep the car several years, And the interior adjustment still works fine. Richard

Hi Vixvet, which engine do you have? It will help members to help you if you add some trim/engine/model year info into your "profile". I'm guessing you may have the 1.6tdiCommon Rail unit? Richard.

Hi Bartor, I've had that fail on my driver's door, I sourced a latch online via the bay of e for c£25, and my small independent local garageman fitted it for, I can't recall exactly, but probably about £50 labour. HTH. Richard PS, yes, I've also had to replace that combined motor and control module, about £160 the part, plus local labour charge to fit.

I replaced the faulty interior lights switch. And have removed the glovebox light bulb, it's sitting in the gearlever gaiter. There's a recent thread somewhere here about this problem.

Replying to the OP, a couple of years ago, I was getting random alarm siren goings-off on my Roomster, (mostly at night), turned out to be a faulty cabin interior lights switch, when this made contact, the alarm system sensed a tiny voltage drop and triggered the alarm, as this drop would suggest to the electronics that a door had been opened. Is it also possible that the poor quality glovebox light switches (which tend to drain your main battery) could trigger the alarm system??

Hi Keith, Yes, as corndog says, it is a fuel cooler. As I understand it, a proportion of the fuel coming up from the tank, through the fuel filter, then going through the Unit Injectors is deliberately "leaked off" back down to the fuel tank in order to carry away excess heat, the air-cooled unit you've pictured does this job. The unit injectors combine the function of high pressure fuel pump and fuel injector. Pressurising the fuel will heat it up, as I see it this leaked-off fuel carries away excess heat and the little radiator cools the fuel then returns it to your tank. As I envisage it, even when you lift off the accelerator and go on the overrun (nil fuel is injected), the camshaft will carry on compressing fuel, and generating heat, my guess is this fuel bypass system is vital to keeping the injection system at a comfortable working temperature. My 1.4tdi PD Fabia Mk 1 had one, I'm guessing the current 1.9tdi PD Roomster parked outside also has one underneath. PD is the German "pumpe duse" or "Dosing pump", their description of the Electronic Unit Injectors used on these engines, the extra loading exerted on the camshaft lobes by these units is the reason our PD engines have a special engine oil grade specified. Hope that helps! BTW, diesels I was working on with canal holiday boats way back when had a leak-off system, as did a later Direct Injection Rover Maestro 2.0di, although fuel pressurisation back then was done by an engine driven pump separate from the injectors. The current Common Rail (C.R.) injection systems also use a standalone high pressure fuel pump, which temporarily stores the pressurised fuel in a cast-metal tube or "rail", from which the injectors can draw highly-pressurised fuel as dictated by the engine's electronic control unit, the "brain" which assesses masses of info from loads of sensors, then allows the injectors to draw exactly the volume and timing of fuel to ensure optimum combustion to deliver clean, quiet, economical running.

Hi Landsker, Can't help you re that engine and gearbox, but check in the Roomsters section for the common problems on Roomsters of that age, of wiring and/or insulation breakages in the gaiters feeding wires to the hatch and driver's door (as those doors tend to get opened and closed the most). On my 2007 Roomie, now at 95k miles, the hatch failed last year, and driver's door this year. Random weird electrical faults with the hatch lock, door locks or electric windows are often the first warning. Ask if there's a servicing and repairs paper trail or dealer records that can get printed for you, see what has/hasn't been done. Try a test drive after dark, the standard headlights are garbage, better H7 bulbs are available, but only add up to 30% more light. Been there, tried those, took the plunge and went for a HID kit, replaces standard bulbs with High Intensity Discharge, a kind of arc lamp, in theory they are illegal without headlight washers, but mine have gone through numerous MOT tests, and are about double the original feeble light output, but with the same beam pattern. Also replaced the interior light bulbs and rear number plate bulbs and front sidelight bulbs, all with brighter (and compatible) LED bulbs. The cars with 15" wheels (ie. non-Scout spec, which has 16") offer a more comfortable ride, as the tyres are taller aspect ratio, taller sidewalls, softer ride. The front seats aren't the most comfortable around, some have swapped in seats from other Skodas or SEATs. I use a wedge base cushion and a shaped backrest. If you plan to use roof bars, find a car that already has the factory-fit roof rails. Many like the panoramic glass roof. Mine is steel, it keeps the rain out! At that age, the aircon could need re-gassing, if is a dealer car, haggle to get it done within the price. The big glass area means aircon was vital and essential most of last summer! Thankfully it has minimal effect on fuel consumption. And thankfully it didn't stop working until autumn, re-gassing was £90.

Hi and welcome, Rodo. Great to hear you're enjoying your Superb. Which engine does the car have? Can be useful to add that into your Profile section. Richard

Hello The Sledge, No I don't have any direct experience of either the 1.6 or 2.0tdi CR engines, but plenty on here do, a guy over in Cheshire took a 1.6Tdi CR Yeti up to an amazing power output, but then dismantled and sold all his other expensive mods, not sure if the engine went back to standard map. Anyway, I've had two PD Tdi's remapped, the first a 3-cyl 1.4Tdi in a Mk1 Fabia, done by RS Tuning in Leeds, and now the current car, the 4-cylinder 1.9Tdi PD Roomster which I've owned for just over 5yrs, the remap was done by Darkside Developments at Barnsley. Both remaps were intended to further improve fuel economy rather than outright power, both have done that and not, to my knowledge, caused any undue wear or damage. You need to discuss your proposed mods with your insurers, many "mainstream" insurers won't cover "modified" vehicles, especially performance-enhancing mods. I may be wrong, but I suspect you're restricted to either using Footman James, Chris Knott, or Adrian Flux. You'll need to negotiate with your insurers what % increase over manufacturers stated output they'll accept, and insist the remappers stick to that. And that's assuming they'll consider covering the car if remapped. Bear in mind that VW rate their power outputs conservatively, to allow for poor fuel, bad roads, high altitude operation, poor oil etc, so your 1.6tdi may already be churning out a fair bit more than the brochure figure. A good re-mapper should do a general engine health check before agreeing to re-map, inc a preliminary dyno run to establish the "base" output, so they know where they'd be starting from. They'll want to know the servicing history, quality of oil used, service frequency, cambelt/mileage elapsed. So there's likely to be extra premium, and quite possibly a need to change /shop around to get cover for what insurers will view as a modified vehicle. And factor in your time doing the chasing, taking the car in for a prelim-run, and probably set aside another day when they can fit you in to do the re-map. Before- and after- output printouts are a must, think of when you come to sell the car on later. Worth asking whether, come the time you wish to sell the car, the remapper would return the engine to standard tune for little or no fee, many used car buyers are wary of modified vehicles. In my opinion it's only worth remapping if you intend to keep the car for several years, so as to spread the extra costs. Have you read on here of the injectors leaking fuel inside the engine, diluting the oil, and causing expensive rebuilds in some cases? (1.6tdi CR). And will the engine have had "The VW emissions scandal Fix"?? The remappers will want to know this. Might work out no more expensive to get a 2.0tdi CR and keep it standard, but hopefully other Superb owners will come on and offer you their thoughts. Good luck, be interested to hear what you choose to do and how it pans out.

Hello John and welcome to Briskoda, And welcome to Skoda ownership, enjoy your new motor! Lots of helpful, friendly support on here when needed. Richard.

Hi Chalky, here you go:- http://www.sencom-kabeltechnik.de/shop#1/SenCom-Kabelbaum-Reparatursatz-Skoda-Roomster-5J-Hecklappe Their item code is SKU888913. Late April 2017 it was Euros 58.67 which converted to £49.51, they didn't charge me the quoted 9.9 Euros for Postage & Packing. There was also a reference 5J7971147. My rusty German suggests Reparatursatz is repair replacement (or kit), Hecklappe is hatchback. It's quite a small dainty boxed package, includes a wiring colours chart as they are different to your originals. Just make sure you order the right one for your car! I recall there's just the one item for the hatch on our older Roomsters. When I, this year, ordered one for the driver door gaiter fault, it was c £70, and then turned out to have way too few wires, so posting it back to Sencom was an OUCH c£30 to go via one of those parcel outfits. Sencom refunded me the item cost in full when I informed them it was incorrect, but obviously not my postage. Good luck.