KeithCheetham

I have previously had this issue which was the mechanism on the top of the gearbox. A spray with WD40, followed up with the oil can cured this. get someone to do the left to right gearlever action while you look under the bonnet to identify relevant/required movements.

Starting point from the old fabia-vrs forum, this should confirm if it is actually possible. Enable Cruise Control Using VAG-COM (VCDS) Connect your OBDII lead to the car. Switch on the ignition and start VAG-COM (VCDS) Carry out a full check for stored error codes, note and reset any that you find. You will need to ensure that your Board Network Controller is suitable for Cruise Control. Open the controller 09 and ensure it is either 6Q0 or 6Q1 and not 6Q2. Open controller 01, when it logs in you should, in the upper right corner, see either OOOOSG if cruise isn’t enabled or GOOOSG if cruise is enabled. To enable cruise, choose option 11 Log In and enter the code 11463. Close the controller, then open the controller again and confirm that GOOOSG is shown. You can also confirm by starting the car, stopping it and then scanning for codes on controller 01. You should have a fault code logged which reads something like cruise control system signal implausible. Clear the code and put your VAG-COM (VCDS) away.

I would suggest that that is the security code for the radio.

The unit linked from Ebay is a Windows CE operating system looking at the advert image with 24 items on - top row RH side - so unsure what apps you can load onto it. Stated as 256Mb of Ram where the simplest Android units are a minumum of 1Gb, 2Gb or more prefered. There may be someone to comment on Widows CE system performance.

Unsure if it would actually give different results as it would probably be reading the same output, but VCDS should give values, or an OBD2 bluetooth adaptor with Torque on an Android phone or tablet.

Do these MS5S sizes align, half the price or 10 just a bit dearer. 1.5v 0.09w Minature MS5S Bulb New | eBay

I would suggest watching this video, rolling road testing of tuning boxes.

I have mounted a 12v socket on mine to power my Nextbase DAB/bluetooth adaptor, with requires a plug in power source, but the requirement for power is the same as a USB. I used a piggyback fuse adaptor as typically below and used it on in an ignition powered fuse in the fusebox. This gives the option of using the original fuse rating for the sockets use, and also using an appropriate fuse for the tapping. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ATOF-STANDARD-LARGE-PIGGY-BACK-BLADE-FUSE-HOLDER-TAP-12V-AUTOBEAM/254640779624?hash=item3b49c5f168:g:I70AAOSwKelc-Xuq

Unless there is history of a change, I would say now given that the car is 12 years old.

A bit of history required:- Did the new turbo ever function properly. Did you EGR delete when the new turbo was fitted. If you did it yourself, how did you do it and if through a map edit have you tried re-loading the old map. While I would not expect much boost at 1400rpm, if you used an OBD2 dongle, an android phone and Torque you can view boost in real time.

The force would be a shear across the pin, with the greatest force across the threaded to plain portion interface which will have an undercut to allow the plain portion shoulder to abut against the carrier - if they were to take any loading. The pins and holes in the caliper are toleranced, with the caliper pin holes and carrier tapping centres also toleranced to give a slight clearance allowing axial movement, i.e. caliper towards or away from the disc. What actually happens is the pads "hook" into the carrier when fitting so will take the rotational force from the pad to disc frictional action directly into the carrier - the caliper does not move, the pad will move slightly over the piston face until contacting the carrier.

Did you work the piston a few times to ensure that it is free, should there be anything on the piston surface under the boot it can get transferred back into the caliper bore causing stiction. Just be sure that when working a piston you do not force it out too far. There is also the chance that the flexible hose could have collapsed inside.

Bottom line for OP then is that it is not a simple swap out as re-programming is required for the immobiliser. It may be a simple matter of the adjustment button being snapped - in the Mk2 it is shaped like a paddle on the end contacting either of the switches as shown in the above photo. Probably worth stripping the console down to review if it's a mechanical issue with a simple fix.

I think the immobiliser is in the ECU (EDC15) in a Mk1 as many of these are advertised with "immobiliser off". In my Mk2 it is in the instruments as I am just about to go down the line of swapping out for a 2nd hand one. Swapping the cluster threw up the immobiliser issue but the fuel level and outside temperature actually worked which was the issue with my current cluster. Hopefully VAG Key Login will allow me to retrieve the PIN of both the new and old clusters then I will use Vagcom.

There is not enough information to start to make recommendations. Electric windows x 2 or x 4, manual windows x 2 or x4. Suspect someone is opening the door and doing this.

This may be of interest to some of you, he did an earlier one showing getting the box out.

If you are referring to the caliper slide pins.

Carista's site suggests very limited functionality on the Mk2 from 2009. https://caristaapp.com/vehicles/skoda/fabia/5j/2009/eu

Sure its flat to the top with the bottom being sat against the stop in the strut platform with the natural rise in the spring being sat on the "ramp" built into the strut platform. The photo shows that the top mount is not sat square to the strut which suggests that spring is not flat there. If the flat end is to the bottom this will apply point loading from the ramp on the rising spring seat.

If he has coded the transponder, you can get a key cut to a photo on Ebay. Just had one done for my Mk2 Fabia as below. Arrived within a few days and works no issue. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REMOTE-KEY-BLANK-AUDI-SEAT-SKODA-VW-FLIP-BLADE-CUT-TO-CODE-NUMBER-PHOTO-PICTURE/264508270348?hash=item3d95ebe70c:g:ObEAAMXQ-BZQ-ogP

Item 21 here so you know what it is, but no item number and car details assumed as you have not included any details:- https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2006-453/1/131-131040/#21 Item 18 here but various numbers/versions. https://7zap.com/en/catalog/cars/skoda/brand/17/0/Fabia/Fabia | (2000 - 2008)/Skoda/bGxRR1dmQXRRbDN1empZYmhDTUwxQT09--/6bbffde8b5b8077d2d0a5796da6eea3c:4605b9fa9f58b89615257f1a0f7ac42d/manufacturer/9/225906000::906000

If you know someone with a Fabia of around the same year, you could look for a part number. There are 2 item 10's and if that is the part be aware that they have different numbers, neither suggesting RH or LH drive so the link should only be used as a guide. Is it the fuse/OBD cover?

This should give you a clue to the components name, but LH drive dash looking at illustration. https://7zap.com/en/catalog/cars/skoda/brand/17/0/Fabia/Fabia || (2007 - 2015)/Skoda/SmlyeFd6ZWljMnpsT2pPd3Jpc0t0UT09--/6bbffde8b5b8077d2d0a5796da6eea3c:3aa3ed0481665b421552f2f4eccab9f7/manufacturer/8/481857100::857010

You may want to consider buying a 2nd hand ECU, which I assume will be an EDC15, and looking to get it cloned, or just to prove the issue one with immobiliser off that you can have back on later if it works due to insurance issues. You should ensure that it is an exact match, and you risk the chance of getting an ECU that has issues itself. I have been down this swap out root with an instrument cluster to identify issue on that and for the sake of £12.50 (plenty of cheap parts for the older cars so prices are driven down) I identified that the original cluster had an issue rather than trying to chase wiring or sender (fuel level and outside temperature not reading) issues. I will now have to look into coding that cluster to my immobiliser and keys, but it was a quick method of identifying the issue..

I had this issue recently and identified that the springs can only fit one way. If you look at the spring you will see that the seat is flat at one end which sits against the top mount, while the other end is profiled to sit on the rising profiled seat on the strut plate with the end of the coil sitting against a stop. If you drop the spring on before compressing you will see that it sits basically correctly one way round but the other way sits at an angle.