KeithCheetham

I am with Sepulchrave on the spare key. You can get them cut to a photo on Ebay for £10 - I have one of these as the safety option should the common door wiring issue lock the keys inside, this won't start the car as there is no chip but will possibly turn the engine over if it is a key and not barrel issue - if this does actually turn the engine over putting your old key with the immobiliser chip close to the ignition barrel may allow starting . The keys appear to be cut with a cutter of a set width therefore it could be just wear making the track wider and causing issues. I assume that you have tried lubricating the barrel with Plusgas (my preferred option to WD40) or similar. The fact that it will turn to the 1st position suggests a good key, but I am unsure what the 1st to 2nd key position interaction is.

I have used Auto Solutions Auto Locksmiths in Huddersfield previously. As Wino said, this won't be cheap, but an independant may be considerably cheaper than the main dealers. There are also many advertising key cutting/coding on FB Marketplace.

This is on my headunit running Android 6 (cheap chinese headunit so sold as 8.1 but actually 6), but will work on an Android phone. The OBD socket is in the fusebox by your RH knee. A bluetooth OBD is under £10 which is what sends the signal to the headunit, or phone which is how I used to utilise it. I went the headunit route to also have sat-nav, using Co-Pilot. Cold coolant - Skoda Fabia Mk II - BRISKODA

Mine is currently on 6 clicks, but been a while since MOT. brochure_fabia May08.pdf

The adjusters are a wedge that is sprung to draw it down - holding the shoes farther apart and closer to the drum. There is no option to adjust when the drum is on, and be aware that if you operated the footbrake or handbrake with the drum off the adjuster will work and probably stop you getting the drum back on. Using the footbrake with the drum off could also pop a piston out of the wheel cylinder. Sometime a lip on the edge of the drum can stop you getting the drum off/on when the adjustment is correct. If the shoes are too tight/rubbing with the handbrake off, you need to take the drum off, put your finger against the wedge at the spring end applying pressure to allow the wedge to be pushed slightly upwards while at the same time levering the shoe away from the wedge. Hope this all makes sense, probably will with the drum off when you can see how it all works. You should be able to test the arm for sticking of the pivot with the drum off, I have previously found that I had to use a screwdriver between the arm and shoe to move the arm due to corrosion, but corrosion of the handbrake cable in the outer sleeve can give the same issue.

While you say penetrating fluid, is this a good brand or "WD-40". I have found that PlusGas gives much better results that WD. One method is to carefully apply heat on the bleed nipple and surrounding area, I use a pen type torch which give a smaller localised flame area, and when hot apply penetrating fluid which may be drawn into the threaded area or even give expansion/contraction at the thread interface. What you must not do is apply so much heat that any seals are effected or the brake fluid is boiled as if it doesn't work you will probably have to drive it again.

Just ensure that the brake shoe expanding mechanism that the cables attach to in the drums are free on their pivots, as these are prone to seizing which can cause issues. Also make sure that the adjustment of the shoes is correct - while the adjusters are classed as automatic I tend to do in manually by spinning drums to check for rub, remove drums if very free, adjust manually, put drums on and continue until I feel happy - you have to use the footbrake/handbrake between adjustments to ensure that shoes re-centralise. This can make a reduction in pedal travel, but just don't adjust to a point where braking heat starts to cause a bind after you have driven for a while.

Bluetooth OBD2, Android tablet or phone, and Torque will give coolant temperature - subject to no issues with sender.

Sometimes if a spring breaks at the top - front springs only - it can displace/damage the top bearing. This happened on my Greenline but fortunately, due to having broken springs on my previous Fabia, I was expecting this and purchased new bearings. I have previously used the 14173 type but found that they can slip around the coil quite easily. Changing springs can be quite dangerous if you are not carefull.

I purchased a 2nd hand set for my mk2 pre-facelift from the owner of a Mk3 who had previously had these fitted to his Mk2, but identified that they would not fit a Mk3 as the roof was different - wider? There should definately be 2 holes on each side, 1 in both the front and rear door returns.

MK2 Fabia Monte Carlo - Roof Bars - Skoda Fabia Mk II - BRISKODA

Will you have to get the transponder chip for the immobiliser coded? I assume the 434 just refers to the remote locking frequency.

Gear shifting issues - Skoda Fabia Mk II - BRISKODA

Mine estate didn't have rails so I fitted a standard roof rack. The attached details typical ones, cheaper versions are available. Mont Blanc roof-bar-performance-flexikit-3-fk71-instructions.pdfRoof Rack k19.pdf

On mine, a hatchback, I have fitted genuine Skoda bars that locate in holes in the roof return edge inside the door frame. If you carefully pull down the door seal you should see these holes. If you search LAS 710 001. Typical picture here:- Genuine Skoda VW Locking Roof Carrier LAS 710 001B | eBay

Bluetooth OBD2 and Torque on an Android phone. Real time boost (even though scale denotes vacuum) info is from the ECU so unsure how this relates to actual pressure but a cheap starter. There are other values you can track, some may not work on Fabia. Mine is displayed on my Android head unit with temp as only a blue light in Mk2 cluster that goes out when it is above 45 degrees but no actual value if thermostat is questionable, and voltage. Few more logs available for the McDonalds car park "meet" such as 0 - 60 etc - which isn't really a great story in my 1.4 TDI.ure.

Is it anything like this, about 10 minutes in, you mention refurb transmission, any idea what was changed:- (2) I Bought This Car Spares Or Repairs.. Lets Fix It! - YouTube

Just to be clear for everyone as the above needs clarification as you say "going to start", does it start then cut out within a second or so, or does it not even fire. I had a spare key cut off a photo but there is not a chip in it, just to ensure I can open the door if I lock my keys inside - if I put this uncoded key in the ignition the engines fires up but then shuts down within a second or 2 which is showing the immobiliser is doing its job.

Never used it myself on a car with a supercharger, but very careful use of Easystart may prove if this is a fueling problem. This has previously assisted me in identifying fueling problems when a motor which won't run but has actually started after an initial short squirt in the inlet, and can then be made to continue running with short repeated squirts. "It's going to start but doesnt" could be an immobilizer issue as my understanding/experience is that immobilizer allow starting for a few seconds then cut out, but I would expect this to show on the dash. Has the fuel pressure code cleared and not returned after you changed the fuel pump.

I have previously had this issue which was the mechanism on the top of the gearbox. A spray with WD40, followed up with the oil can cured this. get someone to do the left to right gearlever action while you look under the bonnet to identify relevant/required movements. Gearbox treacle - Skoda Fabia Mk II - BRISKODA

That kit is only usefull when you have access to the bearing outer race. If you watch the video and look at what you get when you buy a front wheel bearing you will see why the Gen 2 tool is required and that kit will not work. Even the fitting/removal instructions in the linked advert show why it wont work.

Would strongly recommend the below if you only have 1 key. It won't start the car but will open the door should you lock the only key in the car, or the questionable electrics built into Fabias allowing it to lock itself, There is a method for re-syncing the remote but the light staying on suggests another issue. Is there possibly an issue with the key casing maintaining pressure on the actuator switch. VW HU66 EOS GOLF PASSAT POLO SHARAN TIGUAN BORA REMOTE KEY FOB KEY CUT TO CODE | eBay

Mine is the BMS engine which the site suggested by Wino is 4.2 litres capacity. Ensure the oil is correct spec due to the DPF fitted to the Greenline.

Basic data need here to start a review:- Has the fob ever worked while you have owned the car. Have you tried a replacement battery in the key fob. Which light flashes when you press the button, key fob or the one in the door - low key battery voltage may show the light but not be sufficient for the remote signal. I would also suggest either getting a programmed key, or at least one of the cheap cut to photo ones off the bay as if your car locks itself with the keys inside it's probably break a window time. The latter will not allow you to start the car, but will open unlock the car. SKODA CITIGO FABIA YETI SUPERB KEY BLANK CUT TO CODE NUMBER OR A PHOTO NO CHIP | eBay

It has been a while since I had a Mk1 stereo out so cannot remember the connector configurations, but, do the original cars connectors plug straight into the aftermarket head unit or as you mention "pigtail connectors" did you have to do some wiring yourself. I would expect a red and a yellow wire going into the original radio connector from the loom - one will be permanently live while the other should become live with the ignition on. if you can use a multimeter this should be an easy check for 12 volts. To check the earth you should be able to put the multimeter positive probe to the centre connector in the cigarette lighter and the negative probe to the black wire in the radio connector at which point 12volt should show. Instead of a multimeter a cheap alternator tester could be used. Obviously you need to be carefull of shorting anything out. I would also want to turn the ignition on with the radio disconnected as the sound you are hearing may be something different than the CD mechanism. 12V Volt LED Car, Van, Carvan Auto Battery Alternator Tester | eBay