KeithCheetham

Assuming at that price and year it is a Bohemia (often referred to incorrectly as a Classic) with the nice interior, tinted windows, roof rails on estate and alloys, or an Ambiente which isn't quite as posh. Probably in Mk2 price range. I ran a 56 plate 1.4TDI classic estate to 172K, only changing as I had the 1.9TDI Elegance itch to scratch (heated seat, cruise, rear parking sensors), gifting the 1.4 to a friend who put even more miles on it. The 1.4TDI come in 70, 75 and 80 BHP, my classic was 70 BHP which I thought was OK and never felt underpowered even though I drove over the Pennines to work every day, until I drove my current 80 BHP Greenline - night and day.

All parts available to Joe Public. Prices obviously relevant to engine and brake system fitted - OE equipment supplier as some have multiple fitments. Skoda Octavia | Brakeparts.co.uk

Check that there is voltage when 1st turned on - this is possible using a voltmeter which you can view from the inside by opening bonnet, connect positive lead to glow plug terminal and earth lead to battery negative or even engine and placing meter where visible. This would confirm if power being supplied. Also possible to remove glowplug supply cable, connect a meter cable to thread where supply was and other cable to engine then select continuity test on meter. On mine I use the buzzer option on meter - no buzz suggests open circuit/burned out plug. Do this on each glowplug and remember to NOT turn ignition on. As above, if removing use extreme care as they can get stuck in position with carbon at which point you may be able to hear them squeek as you turn them. Even if they start unscrewing, they can still tighten up when partly out. Bad starting - should only be in extremelly cold weather - is worse that having to chance what happens if you have a snapped glowplug in the head.

This again is a case of size being based on dimensions and not number as the quoted height is 175 and not 190 as quoted in 2nd post. The batteries clamp by a moulding on the base so it can be secured, but will the connectors affixed to the plastic battery case mount. The link below is for an "096" but as you will see that one has a quoted height of 190mm. Lead/acid will be suitable, even an 027 as fitted if the existing battery has lasted its guarantee period and is just suffering old age and not had issues/struggled over it normal life. 096 Powerline Car Battery 12V - Powerline Car Batteries (tayna.co.uk) - 4 year warranty

Buy on size not number, on my Mk2 1.4 TDI Greenline I have what is classed as an 096 which is 175 x 190 x 278 - 35mm longer that the 027 that you may find suggested on various sites. A quick check with a tape measure on the plastic cage, which is the limiting factor will confirm. My 56 plate Mk1 1.4 TDI 70 came with 027 but sure I fitted a 096 - years ago so again use a tape measure. My 06 plate Mk1 1.9 TDI 100 came with an 096. Size may therefore be just down to cranking requirements with the Mk1 1.4 TDI to Mk2 1.4 TDI change just being down to fitted equipment.

Did you swap out/code the cluster yourself as I am looking to do this myself - temp gauge and fuel level gauge not working - have accessed the old/replacement codes from the clusters - and believe that I have all the info required to allow coding through VCDS but as you have done/had this done would be great for confirmation of actions.

Not an ideal situation, but an option.

Part of wheel bearing assembly and needs specialist tool to remove/fit. What is the issue? Typical item Skoda Fabia 1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.9, 2.0 1999-2015 Front Hub Wheel Bearing Kit ABS | eBay

If you buy wheel cylinders be aware that there are 2 types quoted as suitable generally - aluminium and steel but one type has 1 fixing screw while the other has 2. Look at what is fitted before ordering. Mine were single screw on my 56 plate 1.4TDI classic.

These have the wedges for the adjusters. Is there any freedom of rotation before you try to pull the drum off, if there is it may just be a build up of rust or increase of the bore due to wear which, due to the shoes being narrower than the drum, leaves a lip at the edge. What may be happening is that the handbrake actuating arm can rust on its pivot which is part of the brake shoe. This component can be partially seen in the above photo between the shoe retaining spring at 9 o'clock and the hub. While you may release the handbrake this component never really releases the drum which you will identify by the drum being tight to rotate. Hammering the drum at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock and on the face may assist otherwise it may just be a case of levering the drum off. The fact that the shoe in the photo is nearly worn out at the 10 o'clock position suggests while the rest and the other shoe are good, either seized piston at the 1 o'clock position or seized brake actuator arm,

As an additional point, these can be screwed up then backed off a 1/4 turn when fitting as this will still hold drum in position - just ensuring head stays under the drum face. The drum is positioned on a drum to hub spigot.

Yes that is correct as this option was possible on the Mk2, having the rubber flap in the wheel well. The wires were then run to the small storage pocket in the passenger side of the boot area where I fitted the control unit and the buzzer with the power wire for the control unit then being fed up/spliced into the reversing light wiring.

I have fitted aftermarket rear parking sensors to my previous Mk1, my current Mk2 and my daughters 2010 Polo. The post below identifies the ones I fitted which given the low price may be worth a try by simply wiring into the reversing light to ensure correct operation before cutting bumper. On my fitments I have never removed a bumper, drilling based on where the OE sensors appear to be located and using the coat hanger wire trick to feed the wires. Unsure on areas to feed into the boot on a Mk3 but on the Mk2 there is a rubber flap just under the lock mechanism. CISBO REVERSING PARKING SENSOR 4 SENSORS AUDIO BUZZER ALARM CISBO 336-4 U.K. | eBay

When I have had this issue a cold chisel on the edge of the screw head impacting the screw in an anti-clockwise direction has always worked. Other option is blow torch with a fine flame then spray with Plusgas (personal prefered option over WD40) when hot, as the heat then chill can load/unload the threads to slightly free off. The heat can also draw the Plusgas into the thread. If you do drill the screw out and destroy the threads in the hub don't worry as the screws only function is to hold the drum on while the wheel and its bolts are fitted as the drum is spigotted onto the hub for correct concentricity.

Do you have the equipment (MPPS cable typical) and knowledge to download your original map and upload the modified map. While this may sound simple, there is a very slight chance of bricking your ECU. There used to be a company called Blacksmoke-Remaps on Ebay who had excellent reviews across Audi/Seat/Skoda/VW forums, and could offer a recovery on your ECU if issues arose or even load the map for you if you posted them your ECU but they do not appear to be active anymore.

@AndyhhAny update that may assist in the future.

Those compressors are the type I use now. As Sep mentioned, I also have never replaced the top mount or pinch bolts, having done springs on both my Mk1's and current Mk2 with as far as I remember access to the top mount bolts from the underside to pre-lubricate, and the pinch bolt head being gripped with mole grips - think its actually a torx head - and working the bolt in/out as they can seize in position. Check you can access to slacken the strut to top mount nut as its sat in a deep recess in the mount and while it has a hexagon for an allen key, if you only have a socket you may find the damper rod just turns when off the car. I usually slacken off slightly when still built into the car. One other issue - been there done that and was the subject of a post recently - is make sure the spring goes on the correct way as they can be fitted upside down, one end of the coil has a "ramp" to match the damper seat. Probably too late for you to get materials but for my recent MOT following a rusting springs note on the last MOT I have just protected my rear springs by treating the rust and covering with electrical heat shrink so have nice red springs now. It needs to be a good shrink ratio as the profile of a coil needs a loose fit to fit the continual small radius turn down the coil.

I have had an issue with the selector arms on the top of the gearbox being tight on their pivots. May be worth identifying these under the bonnet, have someone move the gearlever through various gears and apply a little assistance by moving the levers under the bonnet to see if it make the selection easier. If this works lubricate carefully to stop contamination of the clutch etc.

I would suggest looking to use Plusgas as a release agent rather than WD40. Also the spring compressor quoted above is not a good tool as the jaws creep around the spring when tightening and you can end up with different tensions on both sides, I have a set of Sykes Pickavant - so obviously not a cheap chinese brand - in the bottom of my toolbox with a nice bow in the tensioning bolt from where they slipped around the spring.

Maybe check or change the gearbox oil as there have been issues of them failing in the SDI but unsure if that was just certain years. If changing oil check spec.

It reads that you are trying to undo by putting the pipewrench on the shaft which will only turn the shaft until the TRE stops rotation. There is a ball joint on the rack end which you will see on the new component, so if the undo the TRE , so you will find that the rod just keeps rotating and not undoing the thread. You need to undo the tierod by unscrewing at the opposite end using a 32mm? spanner. I did my own yesterday - on a Mk2 offside - and put steering on full LH lock to bring the inner end of the tierod as far out as possible. Space is tight but will allow you to access the inner end with the correct spanner that has to be short, a crows foot is required although I cut down an old spanner I had.

If when cornering in one dimension, could be a wheel bearing issue as cornering would generally change loading from radial with minimum axial to radial and greater axial loading on the bearing races. If all the time could be developing bearing wear.

1.4 TDI Greenline is the only 1.4 TDI fitted with a DPF.

Just to clarify - is this a new issue on a car that you have had for a while, or is it a new to you car. There is a setting accesable to set open all doors requiring a double click of the remote button. The devil is in the detail. Also it assists others if you close out posts with resolutions if applicable.