KeithCheetham

Would suggest still checking - when warm the oil may be expanding in volume sufficient to go from an insufficient to sufficient level.

You need to mark up the photo with the item they are referring too as the only "pin" I can see is the pressure plate to flywheel dowel. Or are they talking about the pressure plate fingers. Do they just say "the clutch" is too deep, or are they more specific - clutch disc, clutch pressure plate - did they put the new/old pressure plate side by side, the only real issue in depth may be down to wear on the pressure plate fingers or even pressure plate face, but this would be negelegable.

bencelang Any updates?

I doubt that the 'O' rings would be a non standard size. I am looking to replace the condenser on mine as the system could not be re-charged due to a leak, and have cross referanced the port 'O' ring size quoted in 7-Zap (8E0260749 10.8 x 1.8 equates to 50-013) to an industrial/international size quoted in the James Walker catalogue - the only non industry spec is the material to suit air-con which is HNBR while the standard is grade is plain NBR so material grade is very important. The Halfords kit quotes I/D vs O/D which will be rounded up numbers as international standards size 'O' rings by cross sectional diameter and inside diameter. There could be non standard size at the connection you refer to but generally this would require special tooling. As I am DIY'ing on mine - I know the system is empty due to the garage re-fill vacumn test fail, venting to atmosphere is illegal - I will be trying to test the system integrity myself after condenser replacement via one of the cheap home re-fill hoses which has a gauge calibrated pressure to vacumn, with an adaptor to replicate the can fitting thread to allow me to connect to a vacumn source.

There is a requirement to know what rear brakes are fitted, drum or disc, and exactly what the issue is as having had 2 with rear drums and 1 with rear discs I know that they can have their own unique issues - drums never really self adjusted and I have found that I have had to manually adjust the wedges by taking the drum off, and on the disc version the handbrake operating arm can seize in the caliper. As usual, the devil is in the detail when trying to remotely identify issues.

Electrics are not my strong point but, if you have a set of battery jump leads, it may be worth connecting between the battery negative post - not cable - and the engine to rule out any issues with the battery post to inner wing cable and replicate a house wiring ringmain.

The dongle you have plugs into the socket in the fusebox above your right knee. The socket in the other photo is a USB,

If the engine was turning over when the oil light came on, this may suggest loss of pressure. I believe that there may have been issues of oil pump drive chains snapping. This is a worse case scenario but should be considered. Snapped oil pump/counter balance chain on 1.4 TDi SKoda Fabia - Skoda Fabia Mk I - BRISKODA

MasterMunchkin Any updates on a resolution?

I earthed to the negative in the loom up near the bulb socket, originally using skotchblock supplied with the sensors, but have since stripped back the insulation and soldered the wires in as the terminals in the skotchblock appear to have corroded over time and the sensor power wires are very thin as you may have seen - this also assists when re-fitting the light as the skotchblocks are quite large for the limited space. Good write-up, did you take any photos to add in, and you may want to update 6 to remove NS light. As I have advised previously I did not remove my bumper so cannot comment on that part, or the 16 vs 26mm hole markings. Did you try them before beginning?

I was not using the moulded in positions on the inside of the bumper, relying on looking at photos on Autotrader for approximate position and putting tape on the outside to mark positions which also gives a clean cut, and I realised that I had sufficient access for feeding wiring, and there was no chance of any issues damaging paintwork with it off the car. The other issue that I saw - correctly or not - was there was less chance of damaging paintwork cutting it as opposed to having the cutter coming into the paint from the plastic side. As Chickenlickin has pointed out, he already had factory sensors fitted so needed to remove the bumper take those out. The current appears to be very low - the actual wire in the kit is very thin almost like speaker wire - so in line with the instructions I just connected the 2 wires into the reversing light loom behind the rear light without a relay. If in any doubt you can plug it all together - sensors, control box and buzzer = leaving the sensors hanging to allow you to test by moving a hand towards them, and connect into the loom just to try it before cutting or even removing the bumper.

dancingbear84 The below is a similar issue thread with my fitting comments, though I agree that a how to with photos if possible may assist in future:- Rear Camera Installation - Skoda Fabia Mk II - BRISKODA

Thanks for the positive update as this will assist others such as @rajamahbub who was looking for the same resolution to rear sensors.

Just so you are aware, the wiring and buzzer are all in the rear, are wired to the rear reversing light and have no connection to the head unit so sound eminates from the luggage area. I fitted them without removing the bumper on any of the vehicles using the wire coat hanger trick to hook wiring and positioned based on photos of the position of factory fit - Auto Trader etc. Removing the bumper would allow identifying of the factory positioning moulded into the inside face. There is a rubber flap on my 2008 Mk2 in the return edge under the tailgate, inside the luggage area, which I fed the wires through. Not seen any feedback yet in reply to Parking Sensors - Skoda Fabia Mk II - BRISKODA where I also suggested these.

Any update on ease of fitting and useability Chickenlickin

Do those OE sensors integrate into the head unit giving any sort of display, or have they their own buzzer. I have fitted these on a Mk1 Fabia, Mk2 Fabia and a 6R Polo. CISBO REVERSING PARKING SENSOR 4 SENSORS AUDIO BUZZER ALARM CISBO 336-4 U.K. | eBay £179 vs £19.

As Sep has indicated, you will probably find a rocker switch on the end of the RH stalk which cycles you through the data - avg speed and consumption, outside temp, current consumption etc

Following on from skomaz comment above, does the original key still always work as this would probably negate a receiver coil issue.

Is it a 2 or 3 button folding type. It may be worth trying to carefully shake the fob with the blade downward, then try in ignition as immobiliser chip may not be secured correctly inside the fob, and moving to opposite end of fob which may not be close enough to immobiliser ring in ignition.

Probably too late as you suggested going in on Thursday, but an OBD2 adaptor and Torque App on an Android phone will report temperature.

This is the transmitter I suggested. Wireless Bluetooth 5.0 Transmitter Receiver 3.5mm Audio USB Jack Aux Adapter UK | eBay A phone shop may be a better option for the lightening to 3.5mm adaptor than Halfords. The reason I mentioned the extra lead is that the lightening leads are generally a 3.5mm female, same as the cars Aux In so you would need a 3.5mm male to male. Official Apple cable Lightning to 3.5mm Headphone Jack Adapter - Apple (UK) - £9 Or expensive option Lightning to 3.5mm Audio Cable (1.2m) - White - Apple (UK) at £35 without needing cheap 3.5mm male to male. Suggest cheapest option to ensure it works but would suggest genuine lightening to 3.5mm cable (£9 option) as experience with Iphones - families, not my own as not a fan - shows that cheap cables can give issues.

You may want to try opening the car with the good remote, then trying to start with the damaged key in the ignition - keep the good key away from the ignition which may hide the issue - which may give a better understanding of the extent of damaged. My key supplier is based in Huddersfield which is obviously no use to you, but he has cut/coded key and remotes for a Fabia and a 67 Polo with full access to the car - think this was around £130 to give you a ballpark figure. Given this, someone local to yourself may be able to offer this service.

Won't a Lightening to 3.5mm cable allow music via the aux socket in the centre console. Obviously won't work for calls which would require a new headunit. You may also require a 3.5mm male to male cable. Unsure if the item shown would allow calls. Cheap enought to try.

Accurate or not, in everyday use they set a baseline for "normal" levels and would show anything outside expectations. The only issue may be if the engine sensor is placed in a position that gives slow response to changes - i.e. in an area not subject to flow.

Do you have a concern as the standard system identified by mrgf is deemed suitable by the manufacturer and I do not remember any posts on overheating of the 105bhp 1.9TDI, only the VRS diesel TDI's when tuned, but if there are any worries an OBD2 adaptor and Torque App on an Android phone will report temperature. This should not be positioned to cause distraction from the road.