KeithCheetham

While totally different issue in that post, see comments on Torque App and OBD2 Bluetooth adaptor here as it may show you temp being reported to ECU:-

Someone may advise if disconnecting the coolant temperature sensor will allow the car to start. This may overide a lock out due to excess temp reading from a dodgy sensor.

Lacking in details to review:- 1/ How long have you had the car. 2/ Has it actually no gears or is this just a message on a display. 3/ If no actual gears, was it sudden total failure or has an issue been developing. 4/ If no actual gears, did this occur while driving or after a start from cold. 5/ How many miles has the car done. 6/ How does the gearbox oil smell - compare to another similar auto car. 7/ Has any maintenance been done on the box - oil change, oil required to be added. 8/ If you changed the oil. what type of oil did you use. 9/ Is the gear linkage still connected to the gearbox. 10/ Any strange noises if in drive and you raise the revs. 11/ You say gearbox jamming - this suggests re-occuring issue - what is actual issue - no drive, intermittent drive, driving then gearbox locking up. 12/ Is this forward and reverse. Others may add pertinent questions that may allow a better analysis,

tail lights with turn signal, brake and tail lights, reflector rear fog light D >> - 30.07.2018 Skoda Fabia [Fabia (2016 - 2019)] (7zap.com) Can you see the item here?

Are they telling you front or rear? Analysis on your description or actually driving? Front or back? Having done both myself there will be a massive difference in cost depending which end! That have the tooling to change bearings if front, as specific tooling is required - cannot be just pressed to position. There needs to be a few questions answered for a real analysis to take place:- 1/ You have had the car since Feb so assume you have driven on roads where you are noticing this, is the noise recent or has it always been there, 2/ Generally a wheel bearing would not be limited to road surface types - is the noise always there. 3/ Are the tyres as fitted when you bought the car, while wear may change any noise would not expect them to cause so much concern. 4/ If tyres are a concern have you considered swapping front to back. 5/ Generally wheel bearings give a whirring noise that increases with speed. Is this the case as sound clip not really clear. 6/ You mention applying brakes at 7 seconds - does sound change volume, tone etc

Below with thanks to maw_mk1_fabia from forum topic - The app was the torque lite (free) on android (setup the OBD reader through the app, not the phones pairing options, that had me for a good half hour) Make sure you're getting some data through live by adding an rpm display or something comparable. Press the settings 'gear' button Then press the settings 'spanner option' -data logging and upload -select what to log --three dots in top right to add metrics (for mine I had manifold pressure, MAF, turboboost and vacuum gauge, engine rpm and speed [OBD]) -go back -file logging interval (1 second for me) -back out to the normal display -gear button -toggle logging (small info should appear at bottom saying logging enabled) DRIVE -gear button -toggle logging (small info should appear at bottom saying logging stopped) -gear button -email logs -csv -email yourself and then open properly with excel or equiv (graphs don't like the timestamps it uses so I added an additional column to extract only the time part [formula =TIMEVALUE(MID(A2,11,9)) where A2 is the timestamp cell] Shout if you need anything else Not a great recording but one thing of note is a very peaky MAF recording (driving around 30ish but peaking to 600+). Used the torque datalogger to make the quick and dirty graph below. Small snippet of a 30mph road and then the m1 slip (not perfect due to other cars but the spikes are evident). I can give data if anyone is really bored but just to show the general behaviour Grey = revs Blue = MAF (g/s) Yellow = Speed Orange = boost (psi) MAF is generally around the 30 mark but the peaks are 500+ What his graph does show is the MAF output is not scaling linearly, mostly nil output and spiking every now and again. i.e. It’s probably duff. This morning I thought I'd test the MAF sensor using a multi-meter as per HatBoyHarvey's video on the tube - SKODA FABIA MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) testing - YouTube - HatBoyHarvey - YouTube - (really useful playlist) and the cable was fine but the sensor was reading a lot lower than the one in the video (idle at 1.2V compared to ~2V and then revving it hardish it didn't go above 3V). I needed to pop around the corner anyway so thought I'd unplug the sensor 'just to see' half expecting a CEL and limp mode on the way. I WAS WRONG, the car had life! It could spin the wheels and drive like a normal car, got there and plugged it back in for a comparison on the way back and it was pathetic as like before. This was the night and day difference I expected from the turbo swap TBH. Few points because I couldn't find them on here before: MAF readings do rise when engine idling, not sure why but they are reading ~550 g/s when stopped/slowing down as shown below (MAF is blue, revs are grey) Town driving Sliproad and motorway driving (same route as earlier graph (MAF follows revs pretty much) Normal driving values are ~20-40 g/s Motorway values are 40-90 (90 being hard overtake accel +70mph) My old one was spiking (but not constant as above) and not reading above 35ish on the motorway. My max boost (for that journey) is 16psi The sudden jerky motion when taking foot off/putting on of the accel has stopped completely (following the MAF change) and the drive seems much smoother now.

Unsure if you have seen the following post, but may be some info to allow investigation, as while not same issue analysis method may be similar:-

The suggested post on the 1.9TDI states the graphs were obtained through the Torque App, not mentioned if free or paid version but this has allowed him to post results for people with more knowledge than me to comment on. Probably a cheap (less than £5) ELM327 Bluetooth used but may be worth messaging him for clarity of ODB2 adaptor, and instructions on how to carry out the logging - would like this logging method info myself for future reference.

Sorry to hear that the report has brought up some history, all be it of questionable clarity, but this may suggest that the previous owner was also in the dark of previous issues. On my Fabia 1.4 TDI Greenline since purchase in 2012 I have identified signs of accident damage - bent track control arm and O/S wing date stamped after original registration date. The car was purchased with a clean HPI report from the dealer but the quoted FB page shows the value of these reports - zero - with the purchase reports giving in depth info, but even these will not cover owners repairing damage themselves.

That whine sound like a fan starting/running - is it constant speed independent of engine revs. Can you identify if from dash or under bonnet. Is a fan running - radiator or aircon if you look under bonnet. The other thing to try is if turning the heater either to or from recirculation (assume it has a button for this, on my 1.4TDI Greenline it is under fan speed/direction selector switches) the sound changes. How is the pollen filter. Another thing that may be worth trying is with engine running engage reverse gear - on mine fan sound changes, but again that is a 1.4. Can you also turn heater fan off before turning on and try it. Sorry if these sound like stabs in the dark but hard to identify location of sound without standing next to car. The searches I mentioned will give date when photo'd at salvage yard and confirm dates of owner changes, You will see the information format in the FB page, generally under "see more - source link - salvage history - click to view - click here to view" - does the 2019 date align with last registered owner change on V5.

Drop onto the dodgy cars Facebook page for a real eye opener on damaged cars. HPI is not an accurate check for previous damage as cars are not always correctly registered as damaged. The page looks at reports that can actually show damage at the recovery yard. We bought a Polo actually advertised as Cat N, and paid for a search from vcheck.uk which gave us the damaged photos for future records if we sell it. Many of the cars on the facebook page are from major players in the car sales world, including franchised dealers such as Audi who quote cars have passed multi point checks. Your seller may not have known as the can get a marker on HPI years after salvage sale. Another report supplyer is - Buying or selling a used car? — carVertical See a typical report at about 3.1/2 minutes in this video -

I would suggest that you try to identify a manufacturer of the dark coloured filter and review any for sale on the internet. While it sounds unusual to not be white, there may be something in the material used to give the colour. For consumption, fill tank to the top - I am that bloke who keeps filling the last bit waiting until it is visible in the fill neck, not using the pump stop - reset trip and then re-fill after a few hundred miles. Note down trip mileage since last fill up, divided that number by litres use and multiply by 4.545 which will give you miles per gallon. sounds long winded but takes all car sensors out of the check.

34 - 35, cooling towers up to Chapeltown isn't steep so should have no issues. The next part is theoretical working in my head. Boost is not really related to revs - drive at 70mph on flat with light throttle and look at boost value, floor throttle and boost should go up - but more to pedal position and fuel being burned producing gasses to spin turbo and vehicle loading (resistance to speed change). Obviously map fuelling curve will also have some effect on limiting fuel allowed in to be burned. Cannot comment on exhaust temp but appears strange - can it be run with back box off, think single pipe to box with 2 tailpipes on 1.9TDI so possibly only 1 joint to break - could it be blocked as restriction would stop boost building. No exhaust pressure gauge I don't think, generally for before/after DPF but someone may clarify. I am running Torque 1.8.205 which has an option for "Turbo Boost & Vacuum Gauge". Areas to clarify as I don't think I have seen timeline history. 1/ Was the car un-mapped when bought - were these issues present 2/ Did you have it mapped and were issues immediately apparent 3/ If issues after having mapped, did you get a copy of the original map. If you have a copy I may be able to run under VAGEDC15P and see what power/power curve it shows. Just a shame you don't have boost values before the turbo was swapped out as strange it feels worse - could new turbo be restricted on boost by blocked backbox? As you may note, above not based on actual facts but general gut feelings and RCA (Root Cause Analysis) methods.

Yes figured that. The 3 of us have probably been on a few hundred post together so you get to appreciate people quirks and knowledge strengths.

Review comments in the below thread for info on ways to check boost pressure real time cheaply. May assist in looking if new turbo is actually boosting.

It's is just the way he is - different - and I wouldn't want him to change.

I am using one that cost just a few pounds, bought off Ebay as while they can be bought cheaper from China savings are minimal. The limitation will be the software once it connects. The one below is as purchased but many sellers offer the same one. The more expensive ones are generally specifically required for certain software - OBDEleven etc - but should still work with Torque and VAGDPF, although would not be good if you bought an expensive one and found to not be compatible with my recommended software. ELM327 Mini OBD2 Code Scanner Bluetooth V1.5 Diagnostic Interface For Android | eBay

If you get the bluetooth OBD2 to use with Torque, may be worth checking if VAGDPF app is compatible with you engine code. Unsure if a blocked/partially blocked DPF would cause issues as described but again it is a free or cheap tool.

The other thing is to ensure year as there could be unknown changes, 2004 was just a basic start point to illustrate available data. Colm, could you update Model and Year in you profile to include year which may assist in future postings.

This web page is a good starting point, you will just have to identify correct year, engine and tensioner design. Assume you are referring to auxiliary belt tensioner. Confirm thread handing also as occasionally bolts can have a left hand thread to counteract becoming loose due to pulley rotation. connecting and mounting parts for alternator; pol... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2004 year] (7zap.com)

Which can be disable with VCDS if not wanted. How many keys do you have, may be worth getting a blade cut to photo on Ebay if you are nervous of self locking. Can be kept in wallet and used to unlock if keys locked into car away from home, but will not start car as immobiliser chip would be un-coded. Also, try locking/unlocking car with key in door to ensure the lock is not seized as its too late if battery in fob fails or remote becomes un-synced (not unheard of) - immobiliser would not be affected so car would still start. You will find the oil turns black in a short period of time being a diesel, but no harm in doing a change. Also look at pollen filter, when really dirty they can block airflow in heater ducting which can in turn burn out the resistor for the heater motor speed control.

Electric heating, electric heating and adjustment or manual (probably unlikely on a VRS). Wiring is different on heated vs heated and electric adjustment. Had a heated/electrical adjustable knocked off my Mk.1 Elegance and fitted a just heated on which I had to modify the wiring.

Mine is a cheap one, but have actually purchased another cheap one - 2 cars in household - that did not work.

Torque App on a tablet or phone, bluetooth OBD interface and look at boost for real time boost values. This shows zero in vacuum gauge but to being on tick-over but anything up to 17 when accelerating, This is a 1.4 TDI Greenline so max boost value may differ on a 1.2. As you will see voltage can be added as a gauge to answer item 3.

Although they were motorised on my Elegance I never adjusted them after the initial set, and someone took one out while parked so I fitted a heated but non motorised with the correct colour cap, moved the glass by hand when fitted - sorted. Heated is a definite advantage, but motorised - no. Think the motorised on the Ambiente does not counter the alloy wheels, better interior, leather steering wheel etc of the Bohemia. When they do get "clattered" it is generally the diecast mounting bracket that breaks so suggest regularly folding in/lubricating as there is a reduced chance of outcome only being a requirement to fold back out.