unclerichy

I'd also check what they mean by "not dedicated electronics". One of the options for the MkIII was "towbar prep" which (correct me if I'm wrong someone) meant that they extended the necessary wiring loom to the boot area to simplify electrical connections. Without that I believe it was a case of having to fish wires from front to back. I'd be suspicious that they may be planning to just splice into the existing tail light wiring (so connecting reverse to the reverse lamp, brake to brake etc.) which is generally frowned upon in modern cars. If they do intend to use a proper harness (rather than splicing wires) then as well as turning off the sensors when towing you'd also probably need to turn off rear collision detection and the door mirror warning light (forget the name of it at the moment) as they use additional sensors in the bumper that won't be disabled automatically. I have a factory fit towbar and when I tow the first thing the car does when I start to move is flash up a warning that it's turned those features off. If the car doesn't detect you're hitched up then it might see the trailer/caravan as a collision hazard.

I never had a problem with my trims until the dealer unnecessarily applied the fix a couple of years ago. Now the leading edge (just behind the door mirrors) pops out about 5mm now and again. If it ain't broke take it to your dealer... It'll soon be broken.

They've also carried over the waterfall effect from the Octavia where water pools in the gap between rear glass and boot lid then pours into the boot when you open it. Simply clever or something

Your boot trim keeps falling off?

Is the whole towbar missing (in which case how did they manage to list one??) or is it a removable one so you're just missing the hook bit? I would have thought that the the latter would be fairly simple to source.

Is that because you find yourself braking more? On the rare occasions I use eco I tend to use the paddles to pop it back into gear if coasting too quickly.

The indie that I use has access to Skoda's system and they update the central service record.

Strange about the Motability bit as my wife's car was collected and serviced by the supplying dealer (Honda). Certainly sounds as if you avoided some major bills by backing out.

I bought Carista to make a couple of minor tweaks and investigate my TPM niggle. It came up with a persistent ABS code that didn't appear when serviced so I suspect it was a false positive. In the end I only used it to turn on rear DRLs and the headlight LED whiskers. In hindsight I'd have gone for the OBD11 to make more detailed tweaks. I also have a 16 L&K.

One of mine has a dead spider in it so either he was trapped during construction or there is a gap somewhere.

I had a similar oopsie on a previous car and had it repaired for about 160GBP. Mobile repairer filled, sanded and blended with the surrounding area rather than spraying the whole bumper. That was on a non metallic finish though.

5 years and 3 days here Rusty/pitted rear brake discs appeared on this years MOT as an advisory (5 years, 26k). New advisories on this MOT - corroded front springs and misting from front damper (my guess is the latter is due to crashing through a pothole a year or so ago) I've not experienced any of the OP's other niggles but have had: Electric tailgate struts: replaced under warranty but getting noisy again Diamond cut wheels blistering, particularly around the centre despite using non-acidic cleaners. That'll be a refurb job at some point Wheel centre caps poor quality Occasional TPM failure error which, once cleared, goes away for a year or so Creaking suspension (DCC) - fixed under warranty after 3 attempts I also think I'll be due a replacement battery in the next 12 months as I've had a few '12v low' warnings even after being on charge a few days previously. Mine was about 38k retail (though I haggled hard and paid much less than that) so it's going to have to last me for the foreseeable future.

Don't forget that the fitment of Beemer wheels will automatically disable the indicator function

400 quid? Cheap compared to my day - MOT, service, DSG service and brake fluid then road tax renewal 780

They say that they replaced a clock spring? Sounds like a wind up

I filled mine up for the first time in exactly 3 months and in that time I've done a whole 228 miles. It's in for the service and MOT tomorrow and looking at last year's records I've done a grand total of 1818 miles since the last one. Jeez

23ish when towing too.

I run about 80kg (max is 90) on the hitch and there's usually an 80kg(ish) mobility scooter in the boot. Then just the two of us and luggage. My MkII estate sat lower with the same caravan and a 70kg hitch.

I doubt you'd need to recode (from what I've read) but once you've removed it how will you lock/unlock the car? I use a Ctek 3.8 charger on mine and leave the batter in situ. I have an extension that plugs between charger and crocodile clips so that I can leave the charger in the garage . The lead runs under the garage door then up to the car and squishes in a gap near the nearside headlamp.

Yeah, this error also makes all 4 tyres go orange

Most people will only have seen the general tyre pressure warning (which the button will reset). The OP and I are referring to a second warning which the manual suggests means imminent firey death.. (note the 'error' in front of the message)

I have this now and again after changing tyre pressures (when setting up for towing/resetting after). Resetting the TPMS a couple more times and toggling the ignition sorts it. Nothing came up in the last service and no idea what the cause is and doesn't seem to have a detrimental affect on anything (apart from the bing noise).

I used a USB stick earlier to add a station logo. Albeit on a 2016 car but that shouldn't make a difference.

And only an hour later it says it's charged even though final state is 12.07v. I think it's new battery time

Funnily enough mine warned me of low battery today when I went to update a DAB logo and had to turn the ignition on to turn on the radio. Voltage measured at battery was 11.7v so it's now on charge with my CTek charger.